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Published: February 22nd 2006
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Tending the Temple
Getting our artsy groove on. So it begins. The constant chatter which awaits every visitor to the magnificent Temples of Angkor. You've seen the pictures. Many have been here. Or know someone who has. It really is remarkable. Bagan was great and largely unspoiled. This is like Bagan on 'roids. And I don't mean the, "oops my doctor gave me cough medicine can I please keep my olympic silver medal" type either. I'm talking huge biceps, shrink your manhood, on the way to Governor of California type of steroids. In front of each temple are many men, women, and children selling everything from artwork to t-shirts, cold drinks to hot noodles, and handicrafts to postcards. A young girl even offered to sell us nothing for 10 dollars. Not actually the worst deal we were offered either. But I am jumping ahead. Let's pick up where we left off. Pakse.
We flew via Laos Airlines from Pakse to Siem Reap. This is, as you may imagine, a very popular flight since it links two of the most popular destinations in SE Asia. The flight begins in Vientian and stops for pick-ups in Pakse. Lao Aviation has a shoddy reputation at best and, since they are
Sunrise at Angkor Wat
I grumbled the whole way out the door at 530 a.m., but I did admit later it was awesome. the only option, well what choice is there. Aneta was reticent to fly but also had no interest in day long bus travel either. So, after ignoring my pleas to be pre-medicated, we made our way to the Pakse airport via Tuk tuk. I am pretty sure it's the only flight of the day. After a breakfast which is 3x the price as everywhere else (funny how airports are like that) and a rather confusing and maybe illegal currency exchange to pay the "exit tax", we made our way to what may be the smallest plane we've seen in recent memory, that wasn't in a movie or used for relief work. At this point I turn the story telling over to Aneta as she had a much better vantage of the flight from her seat in the "crash postion". I was frantically searching for "soothing" tunes on the ipod and trying to determine what the meat was that came in the complementary meal.
OK- must to take over here-
As usual, Jon's reaction to stress (or ever being in a seated position) is to fall asleep. Well, as some of you may know, on flights with me this is
Dry Season in Cambodia
After 2 months without seeing rain this made us almost giddy and quite a bit muddy. not possible because I must, I must, I must have someone to hold my nervous clammy hands. For once, though, I may not be exaggerating- I thought the plane in Burma was bad but at least it had looked clean and maintained- this one flew in and I had an image of 40 years of previous use in every country around Southeast Asia before finally becoming property of the poorest airline of them all-ours- great. Small prop plane- maybe 25 seats on each side. No magazines, no blinds, no safety announcement- which, even though no one actually listens to is nice to know exists, and no air-con! The no blinds and no air-con made for a particularly unpleasant flight once we got above the clouds and into the sun. Surprisingly, they did have meal service which Jon managed to enjoy (meat still as yet unidentified) while I remained in crash position. Anyway, during this flight I indeed wished we were haggling with Cambodia mafia for border crossing fares on land instead of taking the short flight in. Luckily, the hour flight came to an end uneventfully and even Jon had to admit it was pretty hairy at times.
Upon
Framed at Bayon Temple
Call it contrived, call it trite, but when the Japanese group tour finished we couldn't resist. arrival in Siem Reap, we immediately realized a few things. The first was that indeed our plane was the smallest. Second, Bangkok Air flies three planes here all at once (package tour hell). Third, the airport is so nice it must be the cash cow of the entire country. And when the ATM in the terminal gives you US Dollars, you are in BIG TROUBLE.
The first day was painless. We found a nice guesthouse with TV and fan for only 8 bucks. Helpful, if a little pushy staff. And quite close to the new market where everything we neglected to buy in Luang Prabang (minus the bed spread) was available. A quiet uninspired lunch (note to self read the entire entry from Lonely Planet, good breakfast does not translate into good lunch) marked by a 1 hr torrential downpour of rain (first rain we've seen in 2 months!) which left most roads (term loosely describing dirst paths with motorcycles on them) resembling the river. We then went for a ride to see sunset at the "recommended temple". Oh the horror. After a 10 minute climb up a hill we came to a large temple carved from the mountain.
Smallest plane on the runway
Who says bigger is better. Star Alliance has nothing on Lao Aviation. Who else get you there and teach you to pray all at once. Many portions in near pristine condition. The clouds broke and brilliant purple hued sunset began to cast itself over the town of Siem Reap. And this light made lovely silhouettes of the 268 tourists that filled every nook and cranny of the temple top. Some idiot even left an empty beer in a hole on one of the walls. Frightened and mildly disillusioned, we headed back to town for dinner and a much needed shower.
The next days were spent exploring the temples. There are so many it is hard to plan. It is not hard to figure out how this place finds it's way into so many travel books, postcards, UNESCO World heritage lists, and even Tomb Raider the movie. We even made it up for sunrise which is beautiful and shared with only about half the number of people you share sunset with. We attended a concert/info and donation plea by Dr. Beatocello. He is a Swiss guy who worked in Cambodia in the 70's. He left and was asked to return 15 yrs ago to rebuild a childrens hospital in the capital. 15 yrs and 4 hospitals later, this guy has implemented first world care for
Off the Beaten Trail
Despite being very impressive, this is one of the lesser visited sites in the Angkor area. We were still offered postcards and copied guidebooks there. 85% of Cambodia's children. Remarkable since all the aid organizations and "ëxperts" said it was unnecessary and impossible. Check his work out at www.beatocello.com.
Iain and Nikki made it here after a brief stop in Phnom Phen. This is doubly fortuitous since Aneta's neck has been in constant spasm since the saggy flea infested bed in Don Det left her unable to move. Iain is a physiotherapist, so he tended to Aneta's neck. Nikki is an audiologist, which is good, since I tend to have a problem with listening. So now we are both fixed. Thanks guys!
As for our plans. They are looking suspiciously like the Laos schedule. 2 days become 5 and 1 city becomes 3. Vietnam is creeping up on us but there is little visa time left so another extension is in the works. Travel tip number 462.3. "Although Bangkok is a great place for passport, visa, and post related items, Vientian and Phnom Phen are also very functional. If you have to pick a Vietnam entrance date, try to get the visa as close to entry point as possible. An unused visa sticker in your passport doesn't make you a seasoned traveller, it
Perspective
Who could resist this moment. makes you a dumbass." That's all from here. Love to all. Mazel tov to Aenov and Oren on their new addition-Eelan! Congratulations to Nicole on the launch of her new business(www.yellowboxbeauty.com) - give her site some hits people - for awesome beauty related fun😊 Happy happy bday to Dave S. and a big congrats to Sloan on losing her first two teeth. We want a picture. Does the tooth fairy in Cambodia give riel if all the restaurants list prices are in dollars?
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Small plane?
Hey, kidos, we are all very happy for your fun. Even your troubles look cool and fun :) Small plane? That huge 50-seater? Did you start smoking? :):) I am really worried now that with your propensity to stretch your stays, you will not make it to my concert March 5th:) Anyway, two tickets will be on will call for you:) Keep the fun! Love, smiles and kisses :)