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Published: April 9th 2015
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BRUNEI - Bandar Seri Bagawan (BSB)
Brunei, (pop 410,000) a small sultanate, has the largest oil reserves in south east Asia. This tranquil nation is the realization of a particular vision: a strict, socially controlled religious state where happiness is found in pious worship and mass consumption. It has the largest water village in the world dating back over 1000 years. Kampung Ayer is home to an estimated 20,000 people and consists of 28 contiguous villages on stilts in the Sungai Brunei.
The Brunei Times reports, that to bring more remote areas into the fold, the Information Department's Nationhood and Community Section have introduced a programme to strengthen the relationship between people and Government. It involves a face to face approach to raise awareness and produce a civic community that loves their religion, nation and Sultan in line with the aspirations of the Government and Brunei Darussalem. This will give rise to a more prosperous and harmonious community which is vital to maintain unity. There is also a call for the need for more religious education training trainers to ensure all children, including those with special needs, are able to understand and master reading of the Al-Quoran and perform
the obligatory Fardhu 'Ain such as praying five times a day, ablution and fasting etc.
Unlike most towns we have seen in Sabah the centre of Bandar Seri Bagawan (BSB) is spotless and well appointed. Street kerb stones are painted black and white and roads are made from a dark grey coloured large aggregate. Drivers are very courteous and will stop for pedestrians. There is very little police presence but we are told that the population is under constant surveillance from CCTV and secret police.
The Sultan living in a huge palace with 1788 rooms and 251 bathrooms is well revered and respected. The population is mainly Muslim and alcohol is banned.
A sunny morning- as usual. Roti for breakfast. We see colourful umbrellas and head for a local market. Fascinating - lots of local fruit and veg, local fish - some alive, ladies making rattan baskets (although some are Chinese imports). Sadly two baby owls and 4 squirrels in cages for sale as pets. ... And very fresh chicken on sale... Just choose you chicken; tie it's legs together with parcel tape; wrap it in newspaper and string and make a handle; carry it home; kill
it; pluck it .....fresh chicken for dinner! Quite horrible for me with pet chickens at home all with their own personalities.
It is Friday and we head towards the mosque in time to see the local gents arriving for prayer in their beautifully laundered gowns. The town virtually closes for 3 to 4 hours.
We cross the river to Kampung Ayer, the water village, a maze of board walks connecting wooden houses on stilts. It is a zone of contrasts - dilapidated shacks, well appointed houses, flower lined boardwalks some with street lamps and a mass of floating rubbish. Surprisingly we find a cafe all decorated in black and white. We order coffee and the gent brings out a complementary plate of crispy snacks. Curiosity overtakes me and I ask for the loo. The house is large and extends backwards through several rooms and a big catering kitchen. Everything is every room is black and white - even the loo. And there is a black cat! A normally paperless population, so we are told to drop our loo paper through the window into the water below.
In the heat of the day we pop into a new
department store selling expensive designer wear. The air con is wonderful! Must be 10C cooler in here.
Outside by the river we are approached by touts for river trips. They are keen to capture us as we are virtually the only two wandering tourists here. (Most arrive on hotel packages and their day trips are pre organised.) Prices vary - $70 (£35), $60 (£30). We wait until late afternoon and settle for $40 after carefully negotiating our desired route. We want to see the proboscis monkeys and the water village - nothing else. We zoom up river at speed through mangrove lined river banks. We are lucky. Sitting in a tree by the river are 4 proboscis monkeys. They have very long noses, beautiful thick tan coloured waist coats and protruding red private parts. After a few minutes ours is the only boat there. Back downstream our boatman gives us a tour at speed through the water village. It feels surreal - a bit like being in a film set with criss crossing fast water taxis serving the numerous avenues of houses on stilts creating huge wakes which we bump over.
Amongst the ricketty wooden shacks are beautifully
painted houses and new blocks of 2 storey flats on stilts. Many locals prefer this life style to living on land. Although many use water taxis, some have flashy boats and others have executive cars parked on the road close by. We change direction and head back for the shore. It is sunset and the stilt houses, electricity poles and tangle of wires are silhouetted against the golden sky. Beautiful.
Too exhausted to eat we have another early night.
Before we leave we visit a college training people in local crafts. A newish building with working craftsmen and apprentices to watch and elegant displays of local weaving, hat making, silver wear, brassware, wood carvings, basketry and batik. Good to know the local crafts are being promoted. Again we are only visitors. I buy silk batik scarf in memory of my visit to Brunei.
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