Perpetual Sweat

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The flight over here was long and boring. We love reading and watching movies, but there is only so much of either we can do, especially when stuck in cattle class.

We were met by our Hospitality Club host ,Paul, and went back to his house briefly before going out for dinner. Colin and Paul has beef and chicken skewers - satay - from a street stall. I was full from plane food - not the best food but there was plenty of it. Even at 9pm, it was 27C outside and drizzling.

Today we headed into downtown Bandar Seri Begawan (capital of Brunei, population about 100 000 out of 350 000 total in Brunei). We did the touristy things of course to start with. We went to the very good Brunei museum and Malay Technological Museum, the second having much better air-con.

After a long wait for a bus, we ended up walking up Bukit Subok in 30C, 150% humidity conditions for a great view over BSB, Kampung Ayer and along the river. No gentle meandering paths up this hill, just concrete steps that go straight up. We took a water taxi back to the city centre, fast and fun, B$1 per person per ride. Lunch was in a little cafe where we pointed at a few dishes hoped for the best. Yum. Barracuda in soy(?) sauce, egg and "bitterguard" - previously untried/unheard of vegetable, and some semolina thing, along with plenty of friend rice and cold sodas.

The afternoon was spent exploring the day market (mainly vegetables) and walking around Kampung Ayer. This is the water village with houses and schools built on stilts out in the river. We have some pictures but this internet cafe doesnt have the facilities to upload them and I left the cable at Pauls house. We wandered round, talking to the kids, stepping over snoozing cats, being careful not to fall through the boardwalk. Its an amazing place, these people have running water, electricity, gas and the more upmarket pole houses have satellite tv. Even walking along the main "street" boardwalks, you feel you are right in the houses, their front verandahs are the paths.

All the people here so far seem really friendly, and we havent had any hassling from anyone. The kids rushed up to say hello in Kampung Ayer (Kampung = district/area/suburb, ayer = water) and ask us where we are from, what we are doing etc.

Tonight Paul is taking us to the night market in Gadong to get dinner. He says he eats out most nights, either at a cafe/street stall, or gets takeout. Tomorrow we are off to the jungle for the day. We'll post some pictures as soon as we can.

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Photos

Kampung Ayer
Water Village on the Brunei River in downtown BSB.

Kampung Ayer
More houses in the water village.

Water Taxi
The best way to get about on the river, fast, cheap and fun.