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Published: October 15th 2008
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Rain Coming In
Before we were over taken by the storm Finishing off a wonderful weekend, I traveled up north with my roommates to the Semuliki National Park. Now, Amanda and Janis are two of the best (and prettiest) housemates one could ever hope to find in the FP greater area, if not the whole of Africa. I say this because it’s true, but more to the point, I say this because they bribe me with amazing dinners and even better deserts. They have literally turned Banana-fritters into an art form.
We got an early start to the day leaving at 6:30 am in a privately hired SUV. To get to Semuliki National Park we had to pass through the northern edge of the Ruwenzoris. The drive down to the Semuliki Valley floor was simply breath taking. It was truly impressive to see the seemingly impossible cultivation of fields on sheer mountainsides. Just imagining walking home to a hut perched atop these lofty ravines made me dizzy, let alone the thought of bringing all those crops down to market.
Rather then going straight at the bottom of the valley and heading past Bundibugyo (where the Ebola virus broke out earlier this year) right into the Congo, we turned right and
made for the National Park. I kept my eyes pealed hoping to see any Batwa Pygmy villagers that occupy the area. Unfortunately, none were around. We did, however, come across a group of armed men dressed in fatigues with AK-47s flung over the shoulders. I’d like to say I wasn’t concerned buuuut that would be a lie… Afterall, there have been attacks by Congolese rebels in the past and there still is a travel advisory for area. I was relieved when I saw the UWA (Ugandan Wildlife Authority) patches on their uniforms, and realized they were Park Rangers for the reserve.
We got to the Semuliki Safari lodge and quickly prepared for the morning safari before the inevitable downpour started. We weren’t even five minutes out before it became clear the sheets of rain moving quickly across the grass landscape would soon overtake us. We turned our Land Rover around and made for dry shelter at the lodge. Sadly, we didn’t quite make it before the rain came down. Just like the typical Ugandan rainstorm, it started with a drop here and a drop there, and then suddenly it is as if the heavens opened up and a torrent
of water was unleashed from the sky. The cloth top kept most of the rain out of the open safari vehicle until I started getting pelted with raindrops as the driver kicked the Rover into gear and sped down the increasingly muddied road.
Back at the lodge we warmed up with tea and attempted to dry off. This presented an excellent opportunity to explore. The main structure houses the dinning room and lounging area covered by an enormous grass roof. The back wall is non-existent, providing wonderful views of the game reserve from comfy large white sofas. The whole place reminded of the big-game lodges of the 1930’s.
It didn’t take long for the rain to stop so we set out on round two. Unfortunately, we did not have the best luck seeing animals. I had been spoiled on my Safari down in Queen Elizabeth Park a month ago where we saw lots of elephants, hippos, and lions. Well, actually that’s just lion (singular). But here, there wasn’t much but Kobs, a beautiful creature that looks more like a deer then a gazelle. Apparently, Semuliki used to be the best-stocked reserve in the world until Ida Amin’s war
with Tanzania. After taking control of the area the Tanzania solders pillaged the reserve for bush-meat to take home. Thankfully, over the last few years the park has been successful in reintroducing some of the species that once populated the reserve. There have even reports of lions and leopards in the park, undoubtedly fleeing the conflict over the boarder. We were lucky enough to spot a Shoebill stork. To quote Lonely Planet, “For anyone with a keen interest in birds, there is no more important bird to see then the unique Shoebill Stork. Also known as the whale-headed stork, this peculiar looking bird has a gigantic, broad bill that aids it in catching prey in the water.”
After the safari we returned to the lodge for an unbelievably good meal of quiche, feta cheese salad, and sun dried bread. With real butter! The lettuce alone was a treat since it is nearly impossible to find in FP. Wonderfully content after lunch we headed down to the pool. The girls went for a swim and I quickly fell into a deep sleep on a poolside couch. When I woke up I thought to myself, “I could get used to this”…
The Housemates
Amanda and Janis are bunches of fun
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