Days 15 to 31

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14th to 19th August: More Kenyan Adventures

Having crossed the border back into Kenya from Uganda, we clearly had lots more Kenyan adventures in store. From Eldoret we travelled to Lake Baringo, hippo territory! Hippos kill more people in Africa by crushing them with their massive teeth than any other creature in Africa so...We camped right next to a hippo infested river! The trips to the long drops were pretty scary, particularly as the lads took a liking to hiding in the bushes and jumping out on us. Didn't sleep much the first night and when I did I dreamt about being attacked by a hippo...the noise of the beasts fighting sounded like it was literally right outside your tent...still claim they really were peering in the window! Our first encounter with a swimming pool was very exciting (small things seem like luxury). Spent the entire day making human pyramids. We managed three stories standing - next we're going to do it on water skis!

From Lake Baringo we also visited the Pokot tribe who live very similarly to the Massai people. I found their nomadic lifestyle peculiar but strangely simple and efficient. They lived entirely off the land, with no sign of any modern influences. The main focus of their lives was farming livestock, namely cows, goats and a few donkeys. They grazed their animals on the land for up to six months before moving onto more fertile pastures. Each time they moved they left everything behind because everything they owned was made from the land's natural resources; tables, chairs, entire houses, totally constructed from trees. The women would do all the hard labour such as building the houses, as well as minding the children. The men had two roles: to look after the cattle and to go to war with other tribes in order to gain more cattle. More livestock meant greater power; like a kind of monetary system. In order to marry, a man must give the father of the bride a substantial gift, maybe around 80 goats, 50 cows and a couple of donkeys. A man can have as many wives as he can afford. In the tribe we visited, the man had two wives, each living in separate huts with his mother in a hut in between the two to keep an eye on things! When we arrived, the people were nervous to see us. For many of them, it was the first time they'd seem a 'masungo' (white person). As soon as they got used to us, they enjoyed having their photo taken and accosted our cameras to take photos themselves!

After leaving Lake Baringo, we travelled to Naivasha where we visited 'Elsamere', home of Joy Adamson, author of 'Born Free'. She became famous in the 80's for hand rearing a lion cub which grew up continuing to be very affectionate and not at all aggressive to Joy and her husband.

We also paid a visit to Hell's Gate, a National Park containing all sorts of beasties. Instead of driving though, we hired bicycles and were told to pedal fast if we saw a big cat! It was an incredibly hard ride as it was sandy and really had to persevere though the pain in my legs and arse! The beautiful view of the gorge, spectacular scenery, animals and not getting eaten by anything made it all worthwhile though.

Am now beginning to get pretty sick of the traditional Kenyan food - chapatis, goat, beans, plantain and lots of bananas (yes, I am now a banana lover!). How I long for a traditional roast with lots of gravy, or a good chicken pie, oh and cheesecake...mmmm, must stop torturing myself now!

20th - 21st August: Masai Mara to Nairobi

Beautiful sunsets and sunrises in the Mara. Managed to see a herd of elephants up close - was magical. Think they might be my favourite, but the big cats are pretty awesome too. One couple took a hot air balloon ride and got engaged, which clearly meant one hell of an engagement party! Everything is going brilliantly, except I have to admit that I am getting a bit sick of camping now. Bring on Zanzibar; I can feel the soft bed and warm shower already!

22nd - 26th August: Zebra Beans and bananas in Tanzania

After travelling across another border (which generally takes anything from 15 minutes to 4 hours) and arriving at Arusha in Tanzania, the next few days were going to revolve around game drives. We travelled to the Serengeti and then to the Ngorongoro Crater. The scenery was beautiful - the sky was flooded with a whole array of colours during the sunrises and sunsets, the terrain was so varied - sometimes the grass was like straw parched by the sun and at other times marshy vibrant shades of green and sometimes there were great rolling hills and at other times the earth seemed to be stamped flat as the savannahs stretched for miles.

Managed to see all three big cats: the beautifully proud lions eluding an air of royalty, the very shy but sexy cheetahs with their elongated legs and slender bodies and finally the elusive leopard which mysteriously stalks around the long grass, constantly fooling its audience with its constant ability to be able to hide.

Absolutely amazing, breath taking. Just wish I could share some of the photos with you.

27th to 30th August: Absolute paradise: the island of Zanzibar.

After a night of drinking challenges, being thrown in a swimming pool and other unmentionable drunken antics last night in Dar es Salaam, we had to take a two and a half hour boat trip across to Zanzibar, an island off the coast of Tanzania. People weren't particularly talkative and many trips to the toilet were made! Apparently there were whales but I missed them.

Arrived in Stone Town and basked in the luxury of having a bed, mirror and bath. Couldn't remember the last time I looked in a mirror! Had a full pampering sesh before heading out to watch the sunset with cocktails. We also took a trip to the night market where I went a little scarf crazy...I'll never stop loving shopping and am getting so good at bartering!

We are now in Kendra Rocks at the north side of the island and it really is absolute paradise. Beautiful white sand beaches, clear blue water, chalets on the beach and a stupendous cocktail bar...could life get any better?! Have spent the last couple of days swimming, playing volleyball, eating and drinking too much, generally living a life of luxury...Can't believe we've got to leave tomorrow and go back to tents, long drop toilets and cold showers!


Thinking of you all back at home and wondering what you're all up to. Guess the new term starts soon for all you teachers - hope it's not too hectic. Love to read all your e-mails and messages. Sorry I can't reply to them but trust me, I am reading them and smiling - thank you!

Love to all.

Claire

XXX

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Comments

[Carly]

Loving your emails
Hey sweets - you write so well - can definately tell you are a teacher - such interesting detail I feel like I am right there with you! Hmmm - school will be ok i think - mind you getting out of bed 3 hours earlier than I am used to at the moment might not be! And getting any work done (rather than drinking coffee and chatting) in those first 3 'inset' days could be a challenge. I have really enjoyed the hols actually - had a lovely time in Switzerland for 5 nights and a great girlies holiday in Cinque Terre in Italy even though the weather was changeable?! Caio is home in Oz for a month now then back then to Oxford to study so some big changes happening. I am thinking of buying a house either here or in NZ as an investment soon. The teaching English idea is still very much on the burner also - and why can't I do both actually?honestly I change my mind like I change my knickers! Get that from my Mum! Your tour of Africa honestly sounds like none other - you must have researched it so well! Isn't it amazing how we take the smallest things for granted and the simplest of things you crave and cherish when you are faced with not having them. Willmiss you starting back next week - but never fear - I will eat your share of sweeties on the staffroom table! I am doing a 10k run early October and have been training - might even continue to a half marathon if my running buddy can stick by me - much easier with someone else! Hope you have avoided the dreaded lurgy over there - keep safe and look forward to your next messages about your adventures! Love Carly x