Came, Didn't See, but Conquered

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Finally, it is over. Will and I are safe and sound, back at sea level, after summitting the highest free standing mountain in the world. It was quite an experience, in many ways, and while it will be impossible to attempt to replicate it, here goes.
We were attempting the Marangu Route, the most popular by far of the many options. There are huts with solar panels, water and beer for sale, and running water at all the elevations. It is a far cry from an isolated, peaceful stroll, and if that is what you are after, Kilimanjaro is not for you. It is a social event. You meet people going up with you, talk with those who are coming down (some who make it and some who don't), and one afternoon we had a guitar sing-along in the dining hall with all types of nationalities. Mostly Europeans, but plenty of Canadian and Americans, some with just a guide and a cook, others with as many as 8 porters to a climber. Will and I had a guide, cook, assistant guide, and porter, all of which were nice, but spoke very limited english.
The first day is a 3 hour trek through the forest to Mandara Hut, at 2700m. Still warm enough, with no effects of altitude sickness. The next day you exit the forest for a 6 hour walk through the heather-moorland zone, to Horombo Hut, at 3700m. Still in fine shape physically and mentally, and as long as you have the right clothes, the temperature is very manageable. We spent an extra day at Horombo to acclimatize, the first night being spent with a man with a lung condition who didn't make it to the top, and snored and wheezed for about 18 hours solid. Hearing stories of those who had attempted the summit made the both of us realize that it soon would get much colder and much steeper. After 2 nights at Horombo, it was a 6 hour trek to Kibo Hut, at 4700m. At this point I started to notice a headache, and we both lost our apetite completely. It is a very strange feeling knowing you are weak with hunger, but not being able to eat. Summit day was the hardest day I have ever put my body through, and I will set the scene for all of you at home on the couch watching T.V. with your heaters roaring.
Waking up at 6 am for the hike to Kibo, I had slept very poorly (no more than 3 hours). The 6 hour hike was manageable, but the cold started setting in, and food intake was tough. After arriving at around 2 pm, we tried unsuccessfully tried to sleep until dinner. The oxygen intake is so low, that lying down at a complete rest, your heart rate is absolutely racing. After a dinner that we didn't eat, it was back into the sleeping bags at around 7 pm for some more "rest". Will managed about an hours sleep, while I think I might have gotten 15 minutes. We were "woken" at midnight for tea and biscuits, and then started the summit ascent at 12:30am. It took just over 5 hours for us to reach the summit. I felt like vomitting the entire time, but passed about 10-12 people lying on the ground, vomitting, and unable to continue, so I did my best to hold on. The worst part is simply exhaustion. No sleep, no food, no water, and climbing 1300m is a rough combination. However, at 5:52am, before sunrise, we were at Uhuru Peak, 5891m, the highest point in Africa. I felt like crying, but my tear ducts were most likely frozen.
After summitting, every thing else seems manageable. We both still have colds, and stiff joints, but have regained our apetites and hydrated ourselves. Currently we are in Dar es Salaam, stocking up on Western amenities before heading into northern Malawi. The first stage of our structured trip is over. From here, we go where we please, when we please. If we lost contact, don't worry, we are safe and happy. And for those of you who don't believe us, we have pictures at the summit, and official certificates with our names on them being shipped home. So there. For anyone who wants to climb Kili, it is a personally rewarding, blindingly expensive, and utterly miserable experience. I have no regrets at all. Take care,
-Graham

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