Imbibing in Katesh

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Bar shopping and hopping as related by Kelci

Timing is definitely key to your shopping experience, and often means heading to town several times per day. The Serengeti is not a place to visit after 4 PM. Regular dukas only carry fanta, spriti, coka and sometimes ginga ale, not to be confused with ginger soda, AKA Stoney Tangawizi, a product of the Coca Cola company. Stoney is not a drink to be poured into a glass. It is a must have from the bottle. When you have company, please offer it to them in a glass as it will certainly produce some laughter on your part. I’m not sure what it is but when drunken from a glass the fizz tends to both go up and out your nose at the same time!

Back to the Serengeti though, it is the only bar that carries Bitter (pronounced bitta) lemon in town, a must have with Konyagi. The pronunciation is necessary or you will not get anything, even when you point! Konyagi is the national alcohol, somewhat similar to gin. It comes in 100 ml bags, imperative to cut open with scissors as there are no perforations or seals. Unfortunately there aren’t any scissors here thus you must use your teeth undoubtedly lending to a strong squirt in your mouth. Apparently this is not an issue for Tanzanians nor is the 100 ml in one shot. The Serengeti, however, sells 500 ml bottles of Konyagi which is a treat to bring home for happy hour. Funny thing is the 100 ml baggies cost 1000 TSH and the 500 ml bottle costs 6000TSH. I guess they allow for the squirting liquid from the baggies as both taste the same.

Again back to the Serengeti, and all bars in Tanzania. Bar staff, there is usually one or two women, are hidden behind wooden bars, similar to our old psych units in Canada and current jails. Again make sure you bring the right change if you intend on purchasing anything. Bottles have to be returned to the place where you bought them so one stop shopping is a must if you are to remember where the bottles come from. As is getting your deposit back or you will not be able to purchase beer from that place again-bottles are a huge commodity. The deposit on bottles is really whatever they can’t make change of. Sometimes it’s 900TSH, other times its 100TSH. I am still trying to relay this concept to Mama Linda. At one point Shahanga owed us 800TSH and they never had it. Trading for bags of Konyagi is an appropriate option.

So the Serengeti is not a place to go on your own after 4 PM. I went with mum last night and I’m not sure if it was her presence or that of the live male chicken( that’s the capon, remember) she was carrying, that made the difference. Given our experience at The Banana Bar the night before I think it was the chicken. Learning Acha and Sitaki is a must after 4 PM for the drunken folk who are likely just being friendly but after so many hand shakes in a day it is the time to say Si Taki! The Serengeti also has all types of beer. Previously one could only purchase Safari beer in Tanzania. The old saying of Tanzania has one type of beer and each bottle tastes different no longer holds true.

Kilimanjaro, made from the glacier water of Mt. Kilimanjaro, although bottled in Dar Es Salaam is a premium lager. It refreshes a Tanzanian thirst, is 4.5 %!a(MISSING)lcohol and made from water, malt, cornstarch and hops. Safari, the old favourite since 1977, is simply a lager at 5.5%!a(MISSING)lcohol. It is water, malt, sugar, cornstarch and hops, thus the removal of sugar must make the premium lager. Like Kilimanjaro, it is brewed by Tanzanian breweries. Pilsner, brewed by Serengeti breweries, contains barley! Bia Imara Kama Simba-Beer like a lion?- It is inspired by the original pilsner brewing process practiced in Eastern Europe. It is 5%!a(MISSING)lcohol and contains water, barley, malted barley, sugar, hops and CO2. There is also Castle beer. It however contains corn, which I would prefer to avoid in my beer, so I am not trying it. Again I don’t seem to have a reaction to beer in Tanzania and after two years of not being able to drink any at home, I think I must continue travelling.

If you are not taking the beer home with you, there are proper serving techniques. Remember even if you request a bia baridi, cold beer, you are not likely to find one in Katesh. Beer bottles are always opened in front of you. This is so you are ensured your beer has not been poisoned. The same process is followed for sodas. Coasters are often served with your beer. Do not put your beer on top of the coasters. They sit on top of your beer to keep the flies away.

Beer caps are a commodity. Although you have technically purchased them with your beer, there will be an unworthy fight for you to keep them. Caps have a multitude of uses. The first is the entrance way to the bar which is paved with beer caps. If new enough you can figure out the local favourites. There are also toy cars and trucks. The caps are often used as tires or as decorations. And then there is the jewelry. It is quite stunning with the new array of beer and thus caps.

Bar hopping is another unique experience in Katesh. The choices are numerous even if not recognizable.

The recognizable and upper end bars include the Capricorn, noted for its plucked chickens and candled eggs sold on the side as well as all five beer choices; the Modern, known for its ladies of the night; the Serengeti, the dingy hole across from the market with the dala dala stop and only place in town to buy Bitta lemon and Shahangas, with Barabaig mamas making brass jewelry (and definitely gone down hill since 1992) Other bars we have yet to explore. We may not. They are for the most part holes in the wall frequently by your lower classes where we certainly do not want to be seen. (We prefer those near the market and bus stops where we can be accosted but in plain sight!)

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