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Africa » Sudan » North » Khartoum
June 24th 2006
Published: June 24th 2006
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Well, I stayed in bed for most of today and caugt up on some sleep. When I woke up around 2pm here, I went downstairs to the bar/restaurant and chilled with Nigel, Paulos, and Juan, who had all stayed in for the day, since I ussually go with them and conduct the interviews while Nigel handles all things camera related. Once we started watching the TV in there, I was really glad I did. One French and one Czech journalist were stopped, ambushed, and killed yesterday out in Darfur. We had to watch this on Al-Jazeera (International Arab TV station), so it a bit upsetting to say the least, b/c it almost seemed like they were subliminally glorifying those wretches who were beating those guys bodies. I actually met the Frenchman when I first got here (as he was based in our hotel), his name was Valery. He was a cool guy, even if he was a bit of a stereotypical swaggering frenchman. He didnt deserve what happened to him by any means, neither did his kids that he so proudly showed me pictures of. What is even worse is that I found out that that didnt even make the news. Even when American journalists are attacked or get killed, the news only mentions the "peace talks" and new "truces" that get declared here. Last time I walked outside, anarchy still largely prevails, and the janjaweed and actual government forces are still fighting both the rebels and regular african civilians. If that is the result of peace talks, I think that the networks are wasting their time, but whatever...I know that its nothing I hold any sway over.

I went out to the more prosperous district of Khartoum, near and within the various government building compounds here in the later afternoon and late into the evening. I got to speak at great length with Proffessor Alzubeir Beshir Taha, Sudan's Minister of the Interior. First off, despite the dingy nature that seems to pervade the capital sometimes, I was really amazed at the estate of the Ministry of the Interior. The government buildings here are so grandoise, it seems like they fit perfectly into the surrounding sahel around here. It is something that you just have to see to really understand what I mean. I was also extremely impressed by Prof. Taha. The silver lining in what I am doing here is that I get to view things from a totally different perspective, as well as get a whole slew of varying ones from others. Prof. Taha's view on things in Darfur is that they are making alot of progress (which is true to a certain extent), but that the rebel groups who still fight against the government in both Darfur and in the South are the reasons why true peace cannot yet be achieved. I asked him what he thought about some of the religious influenced killings and village-massacres that have been going on, and he responded by stating that the (around 90 percent Muslim) government holds no grudge against Christians. I wanted to argue with him, but as I listened to him speak as eloquently as he proceeded to, I realized that perhaps he could be right. After all, who am I to say that my view on what the goings-on of this country are influenced by are, as I am not even a Sudanese citizen. I dont know, it is not that he changed my mind, but I think that maybe I presume too much when I try to understand everything that is going on here, in a country that runs on a whole system of living that seems totally foreign to me.

I got some great pictures on the good ol' dinosaur camera today, they are going to turn out so great when they get developed. I got a few of this picturesque esplanade in front of the Ministry of the Interior compound, they were just amazing. I also put in a request with Prof. Taha to perhaps meet with him and Marshal Omar Hassan Ahmad El-Bashier, the President of Sudan himself. I was so suprised when he said that such a thing isnt out of the realm of possibility, because there actually arent a whole lot of pressies who have come by to speak with him at all as it turns out. His international reputation as a butcher might have something to do with that, but still...I cant believe that I could have that kind of opportunity. That man could potentially answer so many of my questions, and plus...he is the "President" (still effectively Prime Minister) of Sudan. It isnt often that one gets to meet the head of State of any country. That is something that elates me, just at the thought of it, much less actually getting to meet and talk to him. Quite frankly though, Prof. Taha really impressed me. People would like to refer to the Sudan as a backward place with an even more backward government, but I have met and talked to (at great length) some of those American proffessors who make those statements, and I'd daresay that Prof. Taha is smarter than most of them. Its just a funny thing about it I guess, especially how he rebuked what he described as "the amount of 'educated scrutiny' that has amounted against me in this past year alone". He is a genuinly nice and friendly guy to me, he told me this is because I do not come out "pistols flaring" (his spin on a popular phrase), calling him a butcher or an architect of genocide. He also apologized for what happened to me, saying that he has been making great efforts to try to curb such instances of violence and mob violence, especially against foreign journalists. While it doesnt change my broken ribs of bruised and lacerated body, it did make a tiny bit of difference I guess.

Aftertalking with the other guys at some length, we decided to stay and take a flight out later this upcoming week instead of on Sunday. Some of the other guys still have to do a whole lot of work before they can leave, so thats why we'd stay longer. Despite some of te stuff that has happened since we've been here already, I think it'll be alright.


When we got back to te hotel, a group of Spanish, English, and Italian pressies met me at the door and pushed me into the bar, where they all proceeded to buy me tons of barfood and even more drinks. They insisted on it all, and this one Italian guy stood up on a table and made a speech to everyone in there, saying that I was a better man than he and everyone else because I had the courage to not just walk by and turn away when something like rape happened. They all toasted me and got pretty raucous, but I appreciated the gesture. I understand perfectly well that what I did was foolhardy (at best), but I also think that it was right. It doesnt change the fact that I am all banged up (understatement), but...I guess it brings enough content feelings to make it ok.

When I went up to my room, I got a written message saying that my Dad had called the hotel. I was sad that I missed his call. I know that he is worried about me after what happened, but he knows that I am alright. Some of my friends who have been reading this stuff have been all freaked out about it too, but they have been cool about it, and are among the few people who didnt really just criticize me about the whole stopping the rape thing. My friend J said that it was probably the most rewarding asskicking I'd ever get, and I kind of agree, although I havent reached Nirvana yet (haha), so I am not on that level of thinking and inner peace yet, as I still just want my body to stop hurting and some of these gashes to go away.

I looked over at my bed, and I have this stuffed dog there. It was a graduation gift from my girlfriend, and I took it with me so I'd have something to remind me of her while she and I are away from each other. It made me a bit sad, being that I have been away from her for most all parts of our relationship, but it also maybe think about that too. I realize that maybe I have done alot of things that I shouldnt have, and havent done alot of things that I should. There are alot of things that now that I am so incredibly far away from her, I am realizing. I dont think that I have ever told her half of the things she really should know, and I hope that maybe I could get the courage to tell her all that I want to when i get back home. it seems like I maybe never really let her know where she stands in my life/priorities, and that I totally took even the little things for granted. It seems like this trip has allowed me to have the time to think about so much, no just stuff with Shirlina. Sometimes I'd rather do things like easily get to sleep, but its definitely a good thing.

Well, Bernie awaits, and I dont think sleeping will hurt as much this time around, so I bid everyone adieu.

Until next time,
David

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26th June 2006

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well...what now i´m super curious. you need to call me and let me know what´s on your mind! i have stuff to tell you and since my login site is down i can´t write my blog tonight, but instead will publish it tomorrow. so, i see that you´re going to be leaving later now, huh? well, i better be hearing from you soon... love you

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