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Published: August 5th 2008
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I shed a farewell tear for Cape Town (I grew very fond of the place) and we headed on up the Garden Route. It's a beautiful part of the country. Much enjoyed by backpackers haling from all parts of the globe. We did it in true backpacker style - the Baz Bus! Fairly comfortable mini bus type vehicle full of studenty gap year-ers. And yes that did bring with it some 'mang-ey' types, unannounced vomiting at my feet (AND on my luggage), drivers nodding off at the wheel and luggage being strapped precariously with string to the roofs of vehicles. On the whole though, it was a great affordable way to get around. One highlight was travelling between Port St Johns and Durban. It was darkening outside and we saw the most dramatic thunder and lightning I've ever seen. The amazing African landscape lit up by the flash forked lightning was truly terrific.
Our first stop on the way up to Jo'burg was Knysna. A peaceful, sleepy little town on the coast with a beautiful lagoon. We stayed in a charming lguesthouse with an eager little soul for a host - Hans, I think was his name. We visited the
nearby Elephant sanctuary and had a magical time with the nellies! We fed them, patted them, hugged them and stood in awe of these majestic creatures. Always a bit wary of human exploitation, I was a bit concerned that the nellies might not appreciate all our attentions but they did seem very contented - I'm no vet of course so I could be totally wrong! Down by the Knysna heads - where the lagoon begins - we went crazy with the cameras. The M&S catalogue shoots were a particular favourite but the funniest - involving Lou and me - I'm afraid is for select eyes only. During our stay in Knysna, there was an outbreak of xenophobic violence in the black townships. We weren't affected at all but did notice a protest march down the high street and constant police presence throughout the district.
We spent a day at Plettenberg bay, another of the more popular Garden Route stops. Here we enjoyed a day reading and being lazy on the beach. We visited a quaint little Anglican church which looked straight out of Dibley. The weather was glorious.
Next stop - Port Elizabeth (PE). From what we saw
of PE, it was too industrial for my liking. The hostel certainly wasn't the best either. It had been my choice and so I sure got an earful from the girls! While in PE, Louise treated us to a fab day at the ADDO elephant park and the Skotia reserve. The game drives were amazing. At times, we saw different animal types converging together (particularly of course at the watering holes) and it was fascinating watching their interaction. After lunchbreak we met some mental snakeman who took schoolboy delight in thrusting pythons and anacondas on us. Poor Kerry was even made to endure a snakebite as part of some pain threshold experiment. All a bit out-there but seriously entertaining. Rather a 'fearty'(hee hee), Lou spent most of the session standing on the threshold of the exit ready to dash in the event crazy snakeman moved in her direction. Very amusing indeed. Late afternoon, we headed to Skotia. Here we encountered the King of the Jungle - LIONS!!! Pretty nail-biting when you realise the lack of cover afforded by the open air game jeeps.
From PE, we escaped to a tiny little remote village by the coast known for spell-binding
At the Knysna Heads
Definitely an M&S catologue look! tranquility - apparently backpackers disappear there for weeks at a time. Due to constraints of time we really could not stay more than one night. We certainly made the most of it though. No sooner had we arrived than we were ordering shooters at the bar. Actually - ok, if I'm honest - that was just me at the bar ordering shooters. The night followed a pretty inevitable course and suffice to say I was a bit worse for wear the following day.
Durban was our penultimate pitstop. Very built up. Not somewhere I'd rush back to. Being almost robbed in broad day-light was a highlight of sorts you could say. Turned round to find the guy unzipping my rucksack. Fortunately there was no stand-off and the guy just bolted when I caught his eye. We were in a helluva dodgey area and to a certain extent,we probs should not have got ourselves in that position. Saying all that, we did enjoy some decent souvenir shopping. We came away with carved goblets, a bust, bangles, rings, pictures, a hippo and a metre-sized giraffe.
In Jo'burg, we waved goodbye to dear Lou. She was pure sunshine and had us
giggling from the start of the trip right through until we saw her off. Very sad to see her go. Can't wait until she comes out to see us next!! KT and I ended up having an extra day in Jo'burg, our flight being a day later than we thought. Not really interested in heading in to Jo'burg proper - lots of scarey stories (I'm such a wimp!) and didn't really know where things were at with the xenophobes. Instead we spent the day at a shopping mall and cinema and went to see of all things, Sex and The City. I've not followed the series but I've got to say, Kim Cattrall is hilarious!
I had an absolute blast in Africa. Each country was so unique and the landscape, just breathtaking. I can't believe how many miles we've covered already!! And it's on now to Asia.
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