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Published: February 1st 2010
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I have just returned from an amazing weekend in the Cederberg mountains.
Our trip started with a 4 hour car ride from Stellenbosch to the Cederberg campsite, which is situated between a vineyard and the mountain range. The ride consisted of listening to Miriam Makeba and Goldfish and driving on a sketchy, winding dirt road, the shoulder of which was the edge of a cliff. When we got there the festivities began. Festivities included a big braai and drinks. Braais, by the way, are the South African version of our barbeque, only better because there are more varieties of food, like lamb and such. Its real traditional South African, and really full of meat, and real good.
The next morning we hiked a mountain. It was a long hike and it was very hot outside, but turns out I'm in better shape than I thought I was. The first hike was a steep uphill to get us just below the rocky peak, and then the next hike to the very top was through a cave, and it required climbing over and under boulders that had fallen during rock slides. It was definitely not for the claustrophobic or those afraid
of heights. One of the boulders was dubbed the "birthing canal", because we would have to shimmy on the ground to get underneath it, and then have someone pull us out from underneath head first. When we got to the top, the view was amazing and the rock formations were beautiful. We were all so proud of ourselves for doing it. It was one of the coolest things I've ever done.
We climbed back down after spending an hour or so meandering around the top of the mountain. The climb down was scary: basically straight down and rocky. I was absolutely certain that I was going to tumble down the mountain. But we made it, returned to camp for some more braai-ing and drinking. Braai's and alcohol go hand in hand. Its hard to find one without the other.
The next day we packed up camp and headed to stadsaal caves to look at rock art. The rock art we found was from the Bushmen; it's estimated to be about 80,000 years old! Incredible. Interestingly, the rock art featured pictures of elephants, and elephants are found nowhere on the Western Cape. Other rock art we found is believed
to be done by a shaman in trance in a place of worship. Trance rock art features humans with strange proportions and in strange poses, simple circles done by shamans, and humans with animal heads.
Also included with the Bushmen rock art was a cave that had the names of several significant South African leaders written on the stone, dating at early as the early 1800's. Little is known about the context of the writings on the stone, only that carbon dating has proven that they were actually written when the dates say that they were written. It is a site of extreme controversy, and possibly conspiracy theories. I can't comment on why because I don't know much about the politicians. The South Africans that were with us seemed quite interested, however.
Shortly thereafter we began the long ride home.
Overall, it was an incredible weekend, and it felt so good to get out of Stellenbosch.
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Marnie
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I am really enjoying your blog!
Lydia, your blog brings back the sights, sounds and smells that we shared in Africa. I do envy you this time you have to get closer to the things we just touched upon on our Safaris. Keep it coming and much love from the Rockies! Marnie