South Africa - May 2014

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Friday Morning 6am, May 30th



And so my South African sojourn begins with a break-of-dawn flight from Las Vegas to Los Angeles – at least I was in a first class seat and able to gulp down 3 cups of coffee heavily laced with Bailey’s – hair of the dog so to speak! Weather was sunny, hot and already 80f by the time my car service arrived to take me to the airport. Going to be significantly cooler when I’m headed.



Delta is located in terminal 5 at LAX and unfortunately there is no easy way to transfer to the international terminal #3. You have to leave the security area, go outside via baggage claim and hoof it over on foot via the busy sidewalks of that airport. Check in with KLM was a breeze (thank god for my Sky Priority status with Delta – no waiting in line with the rest of the “great unwashed” for the nonstop flight to Amsterdam). The agent noticed I had a middle seat (that’s a no-no for yours truly) on the 11-hour flight and promptly suggested she would find me a better seat, and of course I wasn’t about to argue. Next thing I know, I’m holding a first class boarding pass to one of those marvelous lie-flat bed seats in the upper cabin of the 747……works for me. An hour’s rest in the Skyteam Lounge where I availed myself of two vodka tonics and I was ready to board my flight to Europe.



Got myself settled with shoes and socks off, noise-reducing headphones on and a tall vodka tonic in one hand, remote control in the other. I’m definitely ready for takeoff. We depart on time and for next 11 hours, I indulge myself with 4 movies, a fabulous 3-course dinner and even got to finish my latest novel on the Kindle. Not much to see from a mile above the Atlantic Ocean and having been in Amsterdam on numerous occasions, I didn’t bother to open the shades until touchdown the next morning. Brilliant sunshine, warm temperatures and just an hour to make my connection to Cape Town. Here I was not so lucky to get an upgrade but I did have an economy comfort seat with no-one in the adjoining seat….that also works for me. Another on-time departure and we were headed due south across Europe and the Mediterranean.



KLM must think people who fly their airline are the starving refugee masses as they started feeding us within 30 minutes of takeoff. And they continued to feed us for the next 12 hours with two full meals (lunch and dinner) along with two snacks consisting of ice cream and sandwiches…..who eats that much in just a few hours? Apparently KLM passengers do! LOL I took full advantage of the free drinks option and downed 6 single-serve bottles of an excellent South African white wine during the flight – needless to say, I was feeling no pain.



We crossed into Africa at Tripoli in Libya and five hours later, we flew over the Equator – celebrated by all onboard with caramel ice cream – and entered autumn in the southern hemisphere. It was a fascinating flight from the northern beaches of Libya to the rugged shoreline of the Cape of Good Hope – the entire length of the dark continent – a total of 4,500 miles. We flew over the vast Sahara, the mythical but real city of Timbuktu in Mali, and finally began our descent into the Mother City (Cape Town) at 9pm local time. It was pouring down rain, windy and cool around 55f, but it felt marvelous after more than 24 hours of airplane living in recycled air with a bunch of strangers. As this is the only daily evening flight from Europe into Cape Town the airport was deserted, and I was thru immigration and customs in less time than it took to walk from the plane to the processing area. With two new visa stamps in my passport, I headed to baggage claim where my bag was waiting. Into the Arrivals Hall and my driver Glenn was waiting to whisk me to my home for the next 10 days.



It was still pouring down rain but nothing felt so good. I was hot, tired, smelly and badly in need of a bath and a solid night’s sleep before anything else. Glenn won my heart when he pulled up in a silver gray Mercedes Benz sedan with a chilled bottle of water in hand – he just made my Christmas card list! It was a 35-minute drive into downtown but as it was already 10:00pm and a heavy rainstorm, it was difficult to make out much other than the freeway and passing cars.



We pulled up in front of a very non-descript white 3-story building with Juliet balconies on the top two floors, and a decorative wrought iron gate in front of the main door. Christian the night porter was waiting for me and after a speedy check in, he picked up my luggage and we climbed to the third floor (no elevator in this 100-year old building). As in Europe the ground floor is not the first floor, so my room is actually on the 4^th and top floor and it’s a corner suite. I was already totally exhausted - a three flight climb of stairs just about did me in, but at least I didn’t pass out and embarrass myself and thank god, I wasn’t carrying my luggage! When he opened my suite door I knew I had died and gone to South African hotel heaven – it’s gorgeous. Originally a huge top floor room, it has been converted into an open-space-plan suite, with a large living room containing a sleeper sofa, 3 arm chairs, desk, dining table and chairs and a flat screen HD TV. The fully equipped kitchenette is against one wall and the bedroom is around the corner. Here I found a massive king size bed (6.5 long) large wooden armoire and the bathroom at the far end. This was a total delight. No bathtub, no shower stall…..just a large room with the sink and toilet at one end and the rest of the space is the actual shower. The shower head is at least 12” wide – talk about a real rainfall shower – this is it. Piping hot water on demand and luxurious local SA toiletries. The entire suite is decorated in SA crafts – wool rugs on the floor, bamboo towel racks and so on. It really is everything I read about in the Tripadvisor reviews.



I opened up the two balcony doors and let the wind blow thru – fabulous. The rain was starting to slack off a little but that fresh wet air was simply wonderful. First things first and I headed to the bathroom. The shower head hangs from the ceiling and it does deliver a cascade of water – exactly like standing under a waterfall. Great water pressure and it restored me to sanity. I smelled like a goat and felt like one! The ceiling has numerous small lights installed which are dimmer-controlled – I set them to low and turned on the television to catch the BBC international news. Only 9 channels but all in English and two are 24-hour movie channels – I can work with this.



Exhausted but not yet ready to sleep I unpacked. Wonders never cease, more than a dozen hangers in the solid wood armoire. Its doors even have old metal locking keys…….can this place get any better? I found two bottles of water in the small fridge and with those in hand, I headed to bed. Here was another delightful surprise: crisp white sheets with feather pillows – the type of sheets which “crackle” when you slide between them. I was lying on a cloud and with my swollen aching feet, back and head – this is exactly what the doctor ordered. Switching off the overhead dimmed lights, I could hear the rain on the roof and the wind was blowing thru the entire suite – you get the picture – sheer heaven.



I was out cold until 8:30am and as breakfast is served from 8 to 10am each day, I didn’t want to miss my first meal in Cape Town. I staggered down to the lobby and was greeted by Michel, the drop-dead gorgeous, blue-eyed blonde Adonis son of the owner. If this is an example of Cape Town men, I’m relocating! A portion of the lobby has been converted to a Bistro and it’s here that meals are served. Coffee is in a French-press, strong and dark, along with five choices offered for breakfast – I selected the local “brekkie” which is bacon and eggs on toasted wheat bread, and tiny grilled Cape tomatoes marinated in local olive oil. Choice of either orange or pomegranate juice and ice water with lemon slices. I had a glass of each – I was still dehydrated from the previous two days’ flights. Food was delicious and exactly what the reviews had said it would be. Home cooked by the onsite chef and generous portions. Michel handed me the local newspaper and placed me at a table for two by the window, overlooking the intersection where the B&B is located. I spent a quiet relaxing hour eating breakfast, gulping down two pots of their coffee and catching up on all the continent and world news, then it was time to sit down with Michel and get all my questions answered. He is a wealth of information about the city and he gave me all the answers I needed. It’s a five-minute walk to the main drag of central Cape Town where restaurants, banks, clubs and shopping are to be found. When the banks open at 9am tomorrow, I will be able to exchange my US money – current exchange is approximately 10.35 rand to the dollar. I have a two-day ticket for the Hop On/Hop Off tour bus and the closest stop for that is about 10 minutes away. The famous V&A Waterfront is a 20-minute walk from here and according to Michel, the city is small enough that you can see it all in three hours on foot. I have my ticket for the full day tour of Robbens Island for this coming Thursday and the tour bus ticket is good for any of the days I’m here.



So here I sit in my living room with the cool air blowing in from the open balcony doors. I woke up to sunshine and scattered clouds. More rain is expected later today but only a 40%!c(MISSING)hance of this so far, with a high of 60f. From where I sit in front of the window, I can see Signal Hill but Table Mountain is around the corner and can probably be seen from the rooms which face west – I have an eastern line of sight. This B&B is called Rouge on Rose and is located in the Bo-kaap section of the city, also known as the Malay Quarter. During the 19^th century, the British imported many of the labor force from Malaysia and they settled around here, hence the name. Once apartheid was repealed some 20 or so years ago, the locals declared their independence by painting the outside of their homes in every color imaginable. From my balcony, I see houses in bright pink, turquoise, purple, yellow and blue – it is identical to the La Boca area of Buenos Aires. I have taken a photo of these homes and once I download them probably tomorrow evening, I will attach some to my next blog.



Today I’m staying put and getting a lot more sleep. I need to keep my feet elevated for a few hours and get the swelling down, before I punish them further with sightseeing. I plan to activate my 2-day tour bus ticket tomorrow and spend the next two days exploring the entire Cape peninsula. From what other guests told me at breakfast, this Hop On/Hop Off tour bus shows you just about everything you would be interested in for the city. Once I identify the places I want to explore further, I will do that during the remaining days. I plan to spend a full day next weekend on a wine land tour – South Africa is famous for its vineyards and I already know how excellent their local white wine is. This two-day ticket also includes a canal cruise along the V&A Waterfront and a side trip to some local vineyards.



Lots to do and see here – I can’t wait. But today is about resting and getting myself ready to be a true tourist. So far everything is what I had hoped for – it can only get better.



Monday, June 2^nd



Yesterday was the rest day I promised myself. I got this blog started, read up on all the tourist literature supplied by Michel and generally relaxed and recovered. I wasn’t able to get any sleep per se – my mind was racing with everything I wanted to do while in South Africa – but at least I had my feet up and I drank a lot of coffee.



Finally fell asleep around midnight and when my alarm sounded at 8am, I was fully prepared to start my first full day of sightseeing in the Mother City – bring it on. First I had to try the 2nd of the 5 breakfast choices down in the Bistro, and today it was the “Keep it Simple” basket of fresh fruit, yogurt, 7 grain rolls with a selection of jams and honey. It was while I was enjoying this simple meal that I finally got to meet the owner, Ursula. She is a hoot and we “bonded” instantly. Born and raised in Switzerland, she married a Belgian and moved to Cape Town shortly after that. They produced three sons. I’ve seen Michel and if the other two are even close, god help my hormones. Don’t know if the hubby is still in the picture, but I get the impression he is long gone.



She chatted with me for almost an hour and provided some great sightseeing tips. Directed me to the nearest Hop On/Hop Off bus stop and promised to book a couple of other tours to the rest of the peninsula, for the coming days. So armed with US dollars, my passport, camera and collapsible umbrella I sallied forth to see what this place had to say for itself. The morning weather did not look promising. Heavy clouds and mist covered the mountains and I expected rain any minute. Five blocks may seem like a long walk but I soon found out that Cape distances are NOT American distances – five blocks here equals one American block and I almost missed my turn for the bus stop, I got there so fast.



Just as I got to the bus stop here came the Red Route bus which has 17 stops and covers all of the downtown/central areas of the city and then the Atlantic coast road, plus Table Mountain cable car. The two-day ticket includes this routing, plus the Blue Route, Canal Cruise and Wine Tour. The last three I will do tomorrow as today was to really get my bearings and learn my way around. Naturally I went straight upstairs to the open-air deck so I wouldn’t miss a thing, and for the next two hours I saw Cape Town in all her glory. The scenery here is so awe inspiring, I was instantly captivated by the Cape. I don’t know another way to express how beautiful it is here. I have always had a soft spot for Africa – now I have fallen in love with the Western Cape. The architecture, the waterfront vistas, the magnificent twisting and turning road up to Table Mountain – everywhere I looked I was greeted with one incredible sight after another. This town rocks! Driving down the backside of Table Mountain towards Camps Bay on the Atlantic coast, gave me the opportunity to see miles upon miles of beautiful white sand beaches, swaying palm trees and immaculate beachfront homes. Here is where the Atlantic and Indian oceans meet and the resulting waves are breathtaking to watch as they smash against the rocks. I had only been on the tour bus 1.5 hours but had already taken over 100 photos, it is that fabulous here!



Unfortunately due to climatic conditions, the cable car to the top of Table Mountain has been closed since Sunday, so I will have to keep my fingers crossed it clears enough one day before I leave and I’m able to ride it. I can’t be in Cape Town and not be at the top of Table Mountain – that’s virtually sacrilegious.



The first time around on the Red Route I was so busy taking photographs, I didn’t pay much attention to the pre-recorded tour descriptions so I decided to ride the route again and this time, learn all there was to know and that is exactly what I did. I spent four entire hours doing the route twice but thank god I did. I learned the history of the Cape, the Dutch colonization, the British “invasion”, slavery and the final defeat of apartheid. Everywhere you look you see a picture of Nelson Mandela or as he is known here, “Madiba” or father. They even included a short portion of his famous speech given from the balcony of the government building, after his release from Robbens Island (he was incarcerated there for 18 years).



I decided to get off the bus at the V&A Waterfront. Not only was I tired of sitting but I had to pee so bad, my back teeth were floating. The V&A Wharf Mall was right there and after finding the public toilets, I saw a branch of the local African Bank and went in to exchange currency. The rate was ZAR10.41 and after exchanging $200, I had lots and lots of pretty colored paper with Nelson’s picture on the front. Also got some coins in 5 and 2 rand plus 50, 20 and 10 penny ones. The notes are in 100 and 20 rand denominations. Lots of different colors with African animals on one side.



It was mid afternoon and I was feeling a little hungry. What better way to sit and enjoy the bustling dockside than to grab a sandwich and soda and spend an hour gawking? The South African bakery stand was right there and for a total of ZAR 47.50 I had a freshly-baked chibada bun loaded with sliced beef, horseradish, lettuce, tomatoes and sauce plus a bottle of water…..this place is cheap, I’m telling ya! The sun was out, the breeze was fresh and it actually felt warm sitting in the sunshine eating my lunch…..watching and listening to a local steel-drum band, wearing brightly colored dashikis and doing their imitation of Bob Marley – dreadlocks and all. How fabulous is that?



Before I headed home to the Rouge on Red B&B, I wanted to explore the local food market and bring some supplies back, just in case I decided I was too tired to go out for dinner later on. The V&A Wharf Mall had a Pick ‘N Pay Supermarket down in the basement – Cape Town’s equivalent of Albertson’s. I spent an hour walking the aisles, seeing so many English products I remember from back when. Heinz Brown Sauce, jars of Piccalilli, Bird’s Custard Powder and many others…..I was having a ball. Felt like I was back in the food court at Harrod’s. I picked up a large slice of cheese and spinach quiche, some packets of instant Knorr soups, coffee creamer and a bag of 6 Hot Cross Buns. I’m sure only my brother Richard will recognize that name, but geez it brings back memories from my childhood – I had to buy them, for nostalgia if nothing else.



Armed with my “groceries” I headed back to the bus stop and within minutes, I was back where I started some 6 hours ago, just 5 blocks from the B&B. Ursula was at the reception desk and eager to hear about my first day in her city – apparently she loved what she heard, as she has invited me to join her at a local art gallery opening one evening this week. It’s a new South African artist and rumor has it, his gallery opening will be the highlight of the winter season. Ain’t life grand…..only in the country two days and I’m about to become a Cape Town socialite…..LOL. Must be my deodorant, no doubt.



As I write this blog, I’m watching dusk fast approaching the city thru the open balcony windows. Signal Hill and Lion Head mountains are already completely covered by dark rain-threatening clouds and the temperature is dropping. Probably another evening listening to rain on the roof while I fall asleep in my cloud bed. Just because I carried my umbrella today, of course it didn’t rain. Soon as I leave it in my suite, Murphy’s Law dictates I’ll be caught in a torrential rainstorm – story of my life, I swear. But so far, except for my arrival Saturday night, it has been pretty decent weather overall. Fingers crossed it will remain so, as I have so much still to see and do.



I’m still pretty tired from the long flights and I did a fair amount of walking around today, so I think dinner this evening will be cup of instant soup and a hot cross bun……gourmet food all round in this joint. Tomorrow promises to be another blast……wineries, Hout Bay and a canal cruise…..works for me.











Tuesday, June 3^rd:



Those dark rain-threatening clouds I mentioned last night? That promise held fast and a couple of hours after sunset, the heavens opened and a solid sheet of water poured down on Mother City. It rained, and it rained and still it rained. Water was running from the rooftops and it pounded on the Juliet balconies outside my living room. I fixed a cup of Chicken and Mushroom soup with noodles, and then curled up on the sofa with the feather duvet and listened to the rhythm of the rain. It lulled me to sleep in no time and it was passed midnight before I finally awoke and dragged my weary butt to the bed. I love sleeping with the windows open, especially when it rains like that.



Woke up to sunshine but Signal Hill and Lion Head mountains were hidden behind very ugly black clouds and it was pretty obvious my luck for decent weather was about to run out, probably before lunchtime. But that rarely deters me and it’s always breakfast before sightseeing. I found out the downstairs Bistro actually has a name “Side Dish”, so it made sense to try out the Side Dish French Toast for my third choice off the menu. Not something I generally order – too sweet – but when I saw it was covered with pecan cream and bacon, it was a no-brainer. No sooner had it arrived than Ursula arrived and sat down to drink coffee with me. She has me booked for a full day Wineland Tour on Friday and Saturday will be another full day tour to the Cape of Good Hope which is about two hours south of the city. Ursula mentioned that the 30-minute canal cruise was boring and a waste of my time, and as the weather probably wasn’t going to hold for much longer, I decided to pass on that event.



Hiked the usual 5 blocks down to the bus stop and caught the Blue Route bus. It covers 50% of what I saw yesterday on the Red Route, but then it goes further east of the city to cover the botanical gardens, Constantia Nek Wine region and the World of Birds sanctuary. We passed the Newlands Cricket Grounds which is one of the world’s preferred sports arenas, but as this area of Cape Town receives about 80” of rain annually, there is only a small window of time in the summer months that games can be played. Then it was on to the Imizamo Yethu Township which resembles the flavelas of Rio – shacks upon shacks all the way up the mountainside. No paved roads, no utilities of any kind – talk about a hard life!



We were approaching the connection stop for the Constantia Nek Wine tour when the wind increased, the clouds became darker and darker and the temperature dropped dramatically. As usual, I was sitting on the open-air top deck but as soon as I felt the first drops, I headed for the shelter of downstairs. The heavens opened and the rains started. It became so cold I was actually shivering on the bus and there was no way I was even going to attempt to leave the bus, to walk around a vineyard in that weather. Not just no, but hell no! Decided to remain on this bus back to the V&A Waterfront and do a little shopping indoors until, fingers crossed, the weather improved.



Back at the Wharf Mall, the steel drum band were doing their thing, only today they were bundled up in hoodies, scarves and gloves. I found an African Crafts store and was able to purchase two hand-painted tribal masks and a miniature Zulu war shield, complete with Asagi stabbing spear and club. These will make great additions to my foreign objects collection back home on the fireplace mantle.



Leaving the Mall it appeared the weather had cleared somewhat, so I decided to try it one more time and do another complete circle on the Blue Bus. It was fine for the first 20 minutes or so but again I was out of luck and it was simply too cold, windy and wet for me to consider the wine tour, even with the umbrella. I didn’t feel so bad about this, as I knew I was going on a full-day wine tour on Friday anyway.



Returning to my dropoff stop, I started my 5-block hike home when I decided that it was going to be too cold to go out this evening for dinner so instead, I would buy an order of fish and chips from the local restaurant. It’s a couple of blocks away from the B&B and always cooked to order. As always Ursula was at the reception desk and she could smell my dinner as I walked thru the front door.



Shortly after I got into my suite, the rains began again – thank god I brought dinner back with me, or it would have been another evening of instant soup and a hot cross bun. I did manage to take another 90 or so photos today, but many won’t be that good due to the bad weather - lots of editing is in order. Ursula informed me that Friday and Saturday are forecasted to be clear, sunny with no rain – hopefully that will be the case, as I have both days booked with tours.



It’s not yet 6pm but really dark outside with the rain clouds and its quite cold. Don’t think I will have the windows open tonight. However this suite is so cozy, with the dimmer-controlled lighting and the windows reflecting the storm outside. Probably have an early night and give my barking dogs (feet) a break.



Attached to this email will be the photo of the gaily-painted houses in this neighborhood – the ones I told you about in my first blog. This is very representative of the entire area.



No sightseeing plans at all for tomorrow but with the miserable forecast, that works for me.



Wednesday, June 4^th:



The rattling of the windows woke me up at 5:30am – the wind was howling around the buildings and the rain was coming down in sheets. This definitely does NOT bode well for the rest of the day and I’m being to think Noah’s assistance will be needed, to build an Ark to get me back to the airport next week. I did keep the small windows open overnight for the fresh air, but it’s chilly in the room……time to dive back under the feather duvet. Great sleeping weather.



Ursula recommended a restaurant down the street and I’m headed there for dinner this evening, check out their website: http://www.marcosafricanplace.co.za The next recommendation she had for dinner (and a show) was the following: https://alexanderbar.co.za , this is planned for either Friday or Saturday night…..both sound really fascinating. Should be a blast.



The rain finally slacked off but the wind increased to maximum velocity – do we have a mini typhoon going on here or what? With garbage bins rolling down the street, doors and windows banging in the ferocious winds it was impossible to get back to sleep, so as soon as I knew the Side Dish would be serving up breakfast, I headed downstairs. I was the only one in the Bistro for the first 30 minutes or so and today was #4 menu choice: classic onion and cheese omelette with an SA twist. This certainly had a twist…..it’s prepared like a soufflé in a small white bake ware dish, rising about 2” above the rim and then lightly toasted under the grill. It’s served with bacon, mushrooms and a side order of 7-grain bread. Delicious, but then everything I eat here IS! I took some photos of the lobby and the Bistro – once these are edited for size, I will attach them to the next blog.



Ursula came over for her morning chat with me and we ended up deep in conversation for the next 3 hours, drinking gallons of coffee. She told me all about her hubby committing suicide 13 years ago (he shot himself in a fit of depression); her various homes around South Africa and her sons. Michel (the blonde Adonis) is severely dyslexic, which of course has caused untold problems since childhood. With his looks I can’t see it as any handicap, but then that’s me and what do I know? We really get along well and I can see us getting together anytime I return in the future. She is a hoot and has stories to tell up the wazoo…..she reminds me of me, and we have a great deal in common.



Today is really chilly and windy as hell. The rain storms move in and out of the “bowl” (Cape Town is situated on a flat plain along the ocean, surrounded by mountains, very similar to Los Angeles) and as unstable as the atmosphere is, I’m staying in the B&B and getting “stuff” done. I have more than 300 photos to edit and I can always grab a couple of hours sleep while the torrents of rain are pounding the balconies. There are five Americans currently staying here including myself – those Trip Advisor reviews are really paying off. Tomorrow is my boat trip to Robben Island which leaves the V&A Waterfront dock at 11am. Apparently it takes about 4-5 hours in total, so I should be back here in plenty of time to head over to Alexander’s Bar for that evening’s entertainment.



Tidbit of news in the Cape Times newspaper this morning: South Africa just changed its immigration laws (effective May 26^th) and it effects everyone with the exception of tourists who stay here less than 90-days i.e. Americans and Brits. Now anyone already here on a work or student visa, has to reapply and it can’t be done locally – they have to leave and reapply from their home country! How stupid is that? Time should soon tell what total chaos that causes around here. Worst of all, the new season of “Homeland” was scheduled to be shot in Cape Town starting next week. Now Claire Danes and the other actors are all on hold, until this crazy visa situation is sorted out. Another movie scheduled to start here in late June, has stopped Helen Mirren from arriving in Cape Town to begin production. The SA Government is about to lose millions in revenue at this rate…….makes you wonder who really is running the asylum – the management or the inmates.



It’s 8pm and I just returned from what I have to say was, without a doubt, the most incredible culinary experience of my tiny life! Considering the thousands of meals I have consumed around the globe over the past 30 years that’s saying a hell of a lot, and to date, I had considered my camping out with the Bedouins in the Sinai eating sheeps’ eyeballs, as the epitome of adventurous dining – no more. Tonight took the number #1 spot. Let me set the picture for everyone: Ursula had strongly recommended Marko’s African Place Restaurant as the best in Cape Town for true African cuisine, and she did tell me “it was an event not to be missed”……boy, was she ever right! It’s an old converted warehouse less than two blocks from the B&B and it took me less than 5 minutes to walk over there. It was still very chilly, thankfully not raining but the wind was blowing me around the street. I walked thru the front door of Marko’s and was greeted by the darkest skin guy I have ever seen – had he not had his eyes open and displaying a wide tooth smile, I would have totally missed him and thought he was part of the painted wall. I was able to smother my laughter at the last minute. To my right was a roaring fireplace (the smoking area of the restaurant), but I was escorted thru the bar and dance floor area and upstairs to the dining room section. My new best friend (the painted wall guy) placed me at a table for two right next to the window, overlooking downtown CT. No sooner had my butt hit the seat when the heavens decided to open once more, and it poured down – lashing the restaurant windows with a vengeance. But with the dimmed room lighting and the reflection of the roaring fire downstairs playing along the walls, it was very cozy and comfortable. Then a waiter appeared at my elbow with an extensive menu – here’s where the fun begins. I hadn’t eaten all day and was a little hungry, so I flipped to the page of appetizers or “starters” as they are known here, and immediately decided on the calamari, something I really enjoy. Next my eyes drifted to the soup selections and I settled on the spiced pumpkin. So far, so good. Then I turned to the entrée section – steaks to be more precise – and about fell out of my chair. Guess what I had to select from? Kudu, Springbok, Crocodile, Impala, Water Buffalo and (wait for it)……. Warthog! I was stunned to say the least. Not a side of beef in sight. I was beginning to think I was on safari in the middle of a game reserve, not in downtown Cape Town. Well what the hell – when in Rome, do as the Romans do, so naturally being me I went for it. Yes my peeps, I ordered Springbok and Warthog medallions, served with pup (I’ll explain this later) and covered with the local sauce.



Some 20 minutes later while watching the world go by outside the building, the soup arrived and in spite of the fact it was a “starter”, I could have washed my feet in the bowl it came in – generous portion doesn’t even come close to describing how much the waiter brought to the table. My first spoonful and I fell in love. I don’t think I have ever had such an incredible soup anywhere at any time. The pumpkin had been pureed, spices added (unknown) and then laced with thick cream. My god, I thought I had died and gone to heaven – it was THAT good. I wanted to pick up the washbowl and gulp it all down, but luckily remembered my table manners at the last moment. No sooner was that empty and the calamari arrived, still sizzling from the grill. Again another large bowl containing salad drizzled with olive oil and vinegar and a heaping mound of calamari rings, grilled to perfection. Again, this is a starter? It was enough to be an entrée, I swear to god. There must have been a dozen rings and they were not small, either. Did these folks used to work for KLM or what? LOL I was stuffed by the time I made my way thru this dish but of course, the best was about to arrive.



My happy waiter carried in a porcelain platter at least 2’ long, and all I could see was these round pieces of meat (some light, some dark) swimming in a red-based gravy. Down one side of the platter was a long white roll of what looked very much like tofu, all mashed up and hand-formed into this shape. What it actually is, is “pup” the pulp of the Kusava plant (whatever that is when it’s at home), boiled and served hot. Doesn’t have much of a flavor and I wasn’t crazy about the texture, but it takes the place of rice or potatoes. I tried a couple of bites – that was enough for me. I passed on the rest of it. Now I was ready for my meat adventure. Are you all aware that the Springbok is the national symbol of South Africa? They even have it painted on their national airline plane tails. How come the country’s national symbol is sitting cooked on my dinner plate? Thoughts to ponder, for sure. Wouldn’t that be similar to Disney serving Bambi Chops as the Blue Plate Special? These crazy thoughts were running thru my head as I took my first bite. Pretty good I must say and no, it doesn’t taste like chicken before anyone asks.



Now for the highlight of the evening – Warthog…..incredible but really tasty, I actually managed to eat most of these two wild game animals. Can you believe this – who eats Warthog – Linda does! LOL. I won’t forget this for the rest of my life, that’s a guarantee. The bill arrived and it was a total of ZAR 250 including tip (barely $25), such a tiny amount for the culinary thrill of a lifetime.



But the fun wasn’t over. As I prepared to leave the table, a candidate for the Pan African Sumo Wrestling Team came over and introduced himself as Emanuel, the owner of this incredible establishment. This wasn’t a man, this was a mountain wearing sneakers and he had gotten a phone call from Ursula with strict instructions to escort me safely back to the B&B! I cracked up – I was actually about to have myself a giant bodyguard – one big enough to make even me feel tiny – he had to stand close to 7 feet tall and easily weigh 350 to 400lbs. Forget a squad of US Marines and attack dogs – I’ll take this guy as my escort any night of the week! LOL



And so I returned here safe and sound with my guard and at the front door of the B&B, Emanuel bows low and kisses my hand – I wanted to laugh so hard but I knew it would hurt his feelings, so I restrained myself until I got into my room. What a riot, I still can’t believe this incredible evening. Did I mention I just ate Warthog dinner? Warthog!!!!! I tell ya….Warthog!!!!! Can’t wait to see what mischief I get into when I explore Ursula’s next suggested restaurant – Alexander Bar….but that will have to wait until tomorrow or Friday evening.



The rain has stopped for a while but it’s cold and windy…..time to climb under that marvelous feather duvet. I don’t have to tell you all what a fabulous time I’m having here – can it only have been four days already? I feel as though I’ve been here for weeks.



Stay tuned – no doubt more is in store for yours truly……..cheers



Thursday, June 5^th:



As usual, a Cape Town deluge woke me up just after 5am…….just how much water can this town handle I ask ya? The wind was howling like a banshee and the streets were running like rivers. I prayed it would improve as today I’m taking the ferry out to Robben Island – inclement weather is not conducive to sailing anywhere. Yesterday all the ferries had been cancelled because of the storm and it was 50/50 it would happen again today.



After breakfast, Ursula called down to the docks and was assured all ferries were running, so she then called the local taxi service and by 10am, I was off to the V&A Waterfront. It started raining just as I left the B&B but not hard enough to be of any concern, and by the time the taxi dropped me off in front of the ferry building, it had cleared a little. Taxis in and around the central city are a flat rate of ZAR 50 ($5) – beats trying to figure out the local bus schedule and where all those stops are, for sure.



The Nelson Mandela Gateway is inside the Freedom Museum at the Waterfront. You get to wander around inside this terrific museum while you wait for the ferry to arrive. It is a pictorial history of the Island, from its discovery by the famous Portuguese explorer Bartholomew Diaz (first white man to sail around the Cape of Good Hope and make landfall at what is now Cape Town) in 1403 – all the way until it was closed as a penal colony in 1990 and became the revenue-generating operation it is today. Over this period, it has served as refuge for sailors who mistakenly believed the indigenous tribes of the Cape, the Koi-Koi, were cannibals and refused to sail into Table Bay to make landfall in Cape Town. Instead they landed at Robben Island approximately 8 nautical miles to the south, where they re-provisioned their ships and sailed on, into the Indian Ocean bound for Bombay. Then the British moved into the area and chose the island to be a prison which lasted until World War 2, when it became a fort, guarding the entrance to Table Bay. 1960 saw its infamous period begin as a penal colony, mainly holding political prisoners – the most famous of course, being Nelson Mandela – and it remained as that until 1990.



My ticket was for the 11am sailing but true to CP (colored people’s) time, the ferry didn’t return from the island until 11:30am and it was almost noon before we left the dock. The sun broke thru the overcast and the further away from the docks we sailed, the more impressive the city looked behind us. I had managed to snag a seat in the middle of the boat towards the stern. Thank god I did. The one hour journey across the harbor and out into the open ocean was nothing less than a roller-coaster ride – I felt very sorry for those passengers sitting along the port and starboard benches…..some of the long roller waves were at least 10’ to 12’ high and there were a couple of times, I half expected us to capsize, the listing of the ferry was that severe. But overall it was a totally exhilarating sail. Just the fact I was actually crossing the confluence of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans was a thrill, and with the warm sunlight streaming down, I was really enjoying myself.



We pulled into the island docks and were “herded” into a large coach which would transport us around the penal colony area. One of the island guides gave us the basic history of the place and at each stop, he described what we were seeing and what had taken place there, historically. We were not allowed off this coach until we reached the far end of the island, and we then had 15 minutes to take pictures and hit the bathrooms. The incredible views of the southernmost tip of Africa from this vantage point, was not to be believed – it is simply awe inspiring. The currents here obviously are extremely strong which results in these long, high roller waves which were crashing against the rocks, throwing spray probably 20’ or more into the air. Then 8 miles away, the entire city of Cape Town was bathed in brilliant sunlight and surrounded by Lion Head, Table Mountain and Signal Hill as a backdrop. I took as many pictures as possible before we all piled back into the bus.



The next and last stop on the tour was the maximum security prison block where Mandela was held for the 18 years he spent on the island. What is very surprising is that only political prisoners were considered for the maximum security cells. Rapists, murderers etc. were only considered to be medium security level. The government during the 1960s thru the 1990s was convinced the ability of political prisoners to influence others was far greater a crime than anything else! Here we left the bus and our guide and were joined by another guide – an actual political ex-prisoner who served 5 years here and was able to describe life in the penal colony and what they actually endured – pretty horrifying all round. His name was Jama and because he had incited his fellow students to consider rioting to end apartheid during his first year in college, he was sentenced to five years at Robben Island.



It was a fabulous tour and I still find it hard to believe the entire trip, boat ride, coach, guides etc. only cost ZAR 250 ($25) and it took more than four hours in total. We were the last boat to leave the island shortly after 4pm and I was back on terra firma by 5pm. Again a very wild roller-coaster ride back, but the weather held great and I managed to take some incredible pictures as we approached the mainland. Soon as I have these edited, I will email them.



Grabbed a taxi from the waterfront and within minutes I was back at the B&B where Michel was holding down the fort at the front desk. The temperature was dropping by this time, clouds were rolling in over Table Mountain and I knew the now-very-familiar rain storms were about to make their reappearance in the city. Soon as I entered my suite and opened the balcony doors, the heavens decided to do the same and I’m watching the streets become rivers once more. This is getting boring! I wanted to get this blog written and then decide what I want to do for dinner. Not really hungry and its pretty miserable outside, so I may just call one of the local restaurants and have them deliver something delicious. No it won’t be warthog tonight……LOL



Tomorrow I have a full day Wine Lane Tour and the guide will be pick me up here around 9am. This tour covers the entire wine region to the east of Cape Town and I expect to be gone for 9 to 10 hours – should be a blast and with a few wine tastings, I’ll probably be in a happy alcohol haze too.



Cheers…..



Friday, June 6^th:



A banner morning- no rain! The streets are bone dry, the mountains are semi-clear (just a few clouds swirling about the tops) – maybe for once, the forecasters will be proven right. Zero chance of any rain and lots of sunshine so they say. We shall see. My guide arrives at 8:30am for our “Love of Wine” tour day……better get one of the Side Dish’s excellent breakfasts under my belt first, then I’m ready to rock ‘n roll.



My tour guide to the Winelands arrived just before 9am and off we went. It was going to be a small, intimate group just me, Bruce (the owner and guide), a Japanese guy called Ike and Jamie, a South African girl who is learning the ropes and will join Bruce’s company as a tour guide at graduation.



Our first stop was the Fairview Wine Farm approximately 50 miles east of Cape Town, in the region known as Stellenbosch. This was going to be a combination wine and cheese tasting stop and after the six shots of different vintages, I headed for the company store. I picked up a Brie wheel (made on the farm) and a loaf of ciabatta bread, freshly baked that morning. Supplies for my room in the coming days. We spent about an hour onsite, visiting the grape vines, checking out the petting zoo (two goats in there that smelled as bad as I did when I first arrived in South Africa), and Bruce giving the history behind each of the six wines we tasted.



Piling back in the bus we headed for wine farm #2 and other than cheese tasting (there was none), it was a repeat of Fairview. In all we visited 5 wine farms in the region and at each, they poured vintages down our throats until our faces were numb! My lips weren’t working properly by the end of the day. Each location had its own beautiful landscape to show off, each had decent and/or excellent red and white wines but it was the company and the trip which made my day. Bruce is hilarious and has more wine-related stories to keep us entertained as we drove around.



We saw groves of bamboo, lakes galore and the most magnificent mountain ranges, the further we ventured from Cape Town. Our final stop, the Villares Wine Farm gave Bruce the chance to walk us thru the entire distillery from end to end, and then into the cozy lodge for the tastings. It was mid afternoon by this time and no-one was feeling any pain except for Bruce, who naturally couldn’t partake as he was the designated driver.



We had really gotten lucky……the weather held all day with plenty of sunshine. Not really cold but a little chilly when a breeze sprung up. The Villares Wine Farm had a roaring fire going in the lounge and we all kicked back on the sofas to really get drunk, and I’m happy to report, we did exactly that!



On the way back to town Bruce asked if we had tasted Biltong…..naturally both Ike and I said no. It is beef jerky (also made from Kudu and Springbok) smoked over native woods and a South African staple. He drove to a little hole-in-the-wall and took us around the smoking ovens and introduced us to the two women who own the place. After purchasing a bag of Biltong and throwing in some chili spices, Ike and I took a bite………..whoa that was rich and spicy…….we both grabbed our water bottles before we choked. However it is outstanding jerky – too bad I can’t bring any back with me thru American customs.



We were back at the Rouge on Rose as the sun was setting out over the ocean – it was a fabulous balmy evening in Cape Town and I was sorry to see the day come to an end. Jamie and I swapped contact information for when she comes to Vegas and I return to Cape Town in the future. Armed with my break and cheese, I climbed up the stairs (crawled is more accurate) and finally made it to the bed. I was done in and not at all sober.



Tomorrow is my final day of sightseeing…..I have to make it count. Cheers……



Saturday, June 7^th…….brilliant sunshine and an almost cloudless blue sky greeted me as I dragged my now-sober butt out of bed. I had to stand under the shower for a while to get my circulation going, and then headed downstairs for another fabulous Bistro breakfast before my next tour guide arrived.



Myrtle arrived…..she is a gem. A close friend of Ursula’s – they have known each other for more than 30 years – and she has been a registered tour guide for the past 14. She’s a sweet little old lady, probably in her late 60’s, but we had a marvelous day together. Just the two of us, so I sat upfront in her SUV and off we went. As the weather was so completely different from what I have had since I arrived, I didn’t want to miss this opportunity to ride the cable car to the top of Table Mountain, so to avoid the crowds of tourists, we headed there first.



Myrtle dropped me off at the lower cable car station and went off to drink coffee while I explored the summit. The cable car rotates 360 degrees, only the second one in the world to do so, the first is in Palm Springs. It’s a fast and smooth ride to the top, where I was greeted with what has to be the most awesome and breathtaking vistas on the planet – Cape Town, False Bay, Table Bay, Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope. The upper cable car station is 1065 meters above sea level and towers over Signal Hill and Lions head. The wind was blowing like crazy and it was cold, but I stayed long enough to take a bunch of fabulous photos……they are outstanding and you will all see them once they are edited.



Back down to meet Myrtle and we were off once more. She had planned to drive the entire peninsula, following the coast road and that covers about 120 km in total. For the next few hours, she showed me the famous Cape Point, which is the southernmost tip of Africa (no Cape of Good Hope is not the tip), and we rode a funicular railcar to the top of the Point, to visit the lighthouse there. The coast line is simply not to be believed – it is simply fabulous…..there are no words to describe the beauty of this country.



Heading up the eastern side of the peninsula, we entered Simon’s town which is the home of the South African Navy. During World War 2 this was a British naval base and probably where my Dad set foot in South Africa, on his way to what is now Sri Lanka (Ceylon). It was lunchtime and Myrtle suggested we stop and eat at Bertha’s Seafood Restaurant, right on the marina waterfront and we could sit outside. The sun was so warm we opted for a table with an umbrella and ordered the Bay Seafood Platter to share. It came soon after and was loaded with calamari, prawns, mussels and Snoeke (another SA staple and very popular here). Myrtle suggested I try Malva Pudding with ice cream (another SA delicacy) and that has to be one of the best desserts I have eaten in years. We spent a very pleasant couple of hours watching the boats leave the harbor and then it was time to head back to the SUV and head north towards Cape Town.



As we approached the city, Myrtle suggested she show me the local wine region Constantia. This worked out well, as I had been unable to visit there earlier due to the torrential rains we had last Tuesday. We drove thru this region and it is every bit as beautiful as Stellenbosch had been yesterday, and is also the home of the famous South African author, Wilbur Smith.



Just before reaching the B&B, I asked Myrtle if we could stop at the local Woolworth’s so I could pick up some juice and what did I find in there? Pork Pies!!! My brother will laugh at this, as he and I searched the length and breadth of Ireland last year for these pies, and couldn’t find one no matter how hard we looked. Woolworth’s makes the very small, single serving size pies, four to a package and I added a package to my basket.



Myrtle had me back at the Rouge on Rose by 6:30pm…..night had fallen but it was still quite warm and very pleasant. Ursula was waiting for my report and of course, I couldn’t say enough about how great this day had been. I have managed to see and do everything on my South Africa bucket list…..how cool is that?



Tomorrow is a down day. The weather is forecast to be wet, cold and cloudy and I do have to rest up for my across-the-globe flights on Monday evening. Can’t believe this trip is almost at an end…..I don’t want to leave! Where did all the days go?



Already been upgraded to first class for my last leg between Detroit and Las Vegas…..needless to say, I have all fingers, eyes and toes crossed that I get the same on the first and second legs, which are the longest.



Vegas is supposed to be 111f by Tuesday…….after the cold here, no doubt it will be a total shock to my system. But overall it will be good to be back home once more. Cheers…..



Monday, June 9^th…….



Yesterday was a total lazy and quiet day. Spent a couple of hours after breakfast chatting with Ursula and she told me not to worry about checking out at their normal 11am time, but to keep the room until I leave for the airport at 6pm. That definitely works for me. I have the television, internet and even the bed to sleep for a couple of hours, instead of waiting around the airport most of the day.



The weather did take a turn for the worse last night as predicted. It had been quite cold all day, very overcast but no rain until later in the evening. By 5:30pm the heavens had opened AGAIN and the rain came down in torrents, flooding the side streets as usual. The wind was howling but I was warm and cozy sitting in bed reading a good novel…..my feet were propped up and all was right with the world. This same time tomorrow I’ll be on approach into McCarran and walking out of baggage claim into that incredible heat. I just know I’m going to miss Cape Town more than I can say…..this is now officially my favorite spot on the planet.



A torrential downpour AGAIN brought me out of a deep sleep just before 6am. Don’t think it rained for most of the night but it sure is coming down in buckets today. 100% rain is predicted for the day, but hopefully it will clear before I make my trek to the airport in a few hours.



Stopped by to chat with Ursula after breakfast and complete the checkout procedures. I’m really going to miss the outstanding Bistro breakfasts…..back to cottage cheese and blueberries as of Wednesday! Finished all my packing and now will spend a few hours creating all the reviews in Tripadvisor…..I have a lot to say about everything.



Almost time to leave this wonderful suite and head for the airport. Heavy rain showers have been on and off all day – clear and cold right now and fingers crossed it will remain this way until I’m inside the terminal – then I don’t care how much rain this town gets!



Well it was raining when I arrived, only seems fair it should be doing the same when I leave. Got to the airport with hours to spare and after checking in with KLM and getting my boarding passes, I headed into duty free to kill a little time. Watched the torrential rains as we boarded and realized I wouldn’t be seeing rain for a long time – bone dry back home in Nevada.



Tuesday, June 11^th:



Landed a little early in Amsterdam after a long and tiring 12-hour overnight flight and at last, brilliant sunshine and much warmer. I had almost forgotten how warm jetways can feel when first deplaning. Schipol as always was crowded but thankfully my connecting flight onwards to Detroit was in the same terminal and I only had to stroll down 8 gates and got to stretch my cramped legs for a while.



Managed to doze on and off during the 8 hours to North America and it felt good to step back down on American soil in mid afternoon. First thing I did was switch on my Sprint cellular services to find numerous text and voice messages which of course, I couldn’t receive while out of the country. Another good thing I noticed, my Centurylink email account now recognized me and I was able to SEND as well as receive all my emails…….whoopee, there is a god! I expected to have to call them to get this problem resolved.



Just another four hours of flight and Las Vegas shimmering in 104f heat beckoned as the plane descended into McCarran, geez it’s good to be home. My car service driver met me in baggage claim and by 7pm I was unlocking my front door.



So peeps my South African sojourn comes to an end. What a fabulous trip I had – can’t wait to repeat it at the earliest opportunity. But first to find my next gig. Had three recruiters leave voice messages – guess I will call them when I wake up sometime tomorrow. Who knows – just might be going back to work in the near future.



Cheers

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