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Published: September 25th 2008
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(Sorry, probably no photos as there seems to be a problem with the uploding. Check again tomorrow or one of these days.)
Not having written anything for such a long time, is a sign of ... well, what? That I am taking time off my holidays for a holiday? That things are just not that exciting/strange/exotic anymore so that I do not know what might be interesting enough for you to read about? That, weirdly enough, access to the Internet has not been that easy here in civilized South Africa? (While on the Overlander, Internet - though neither very fast nor very reliable - was everywhere. Here, on the other hand, Internet Cafes either do not exist or have closed down or are just closed for the day/ the weekend/ or because it is still winter, or they are officially open but no-one is there ...)
Probably a bit of everything. That is why I also had various ideas for titles for this entry:
- Same Same But Different: From dung beetles to whales. But are you really ready for more animals? Well, I fill you in on the ostrich anyway.(Sorry, this will be in German as it is
from a guide book.)
Zwischen Calitzdorp und Oudtshoorn in der Kleinen Karoo (Region Western Cape) leben weit ueber 90% der
Weltstraussen-Population. ein Straussenei entsprich in der Menge etwa 24 Huehnereiern, allerdings schmeckt es nicht besonders gut und ist im Gegensatz zum Straussenfleisch (erinnert eher an Rind) eine wahre Cholsterin-Bombe. In der Stabilitaet sind sie dann wieder echte Ueberraschungseier: ein Erwachsener kann ohne weiteres auf ihnen stehen, ohne sie zu zerbrechen.
Die Auge der Voegel sind unheimlich scharf, dafuer ist das Gehirn nur so gross wie ein Augapfel. Dass sie unheimlich schnell rennen koennen, weiss man vielleicht, aber dass sie mit einem gekonnten Kickboxer-Fusstritt selbst Loewen ausknocken koennen, wahrscheinlich nicht. Und auch, dass der kraeftige Fussnagel schaerfer ist als das Messer des Ripper. Der Grund, warum viele maennliche Strausse hier Jack heissen.
- Fruehlingsgefuehle (Spring is in the Air): obviously it is spring here now (obwohl sich das in einigen Ecken noch nicht herumgesprochen hat); all the fruit trees (whatever they are) are flowering, and that against the backdrop of the dark and brooding mountains it is a spectacular sight;
- Whole Lot of Nothing: Even though I am not having any hippo encounters anymore things do get a
Having a whale of a time
A Southern Right Whale disappears again too quickly to get a decent shot. bit scary at times. The landscape I travelled through is nothing but dramatic. More than once I loudly exclaimed "Wow!" even though I was all alone in my car. For Germans "awe" is directly linked with "fear" in the word "Ehrfurcht" and not seldom did I find the scenery "(ehr-)furchteinfloessend". Especially when the weather was bad as at the spooky Bain's Kloof Pass but also when there was this whole lot of nothing, not a person, not a car, not a dwelling in sight, just me. You want a friend to be with you, not only to share the drama but if nothing else to hold your hand if the car should break down. I mean, what can she do if you yourself can't get the screws off if the tyre needs changing - unless the She is - conveniently - a big strong He. Though, I suppose, a small strong He would do as well at a pinch.
Otherwise driving is a breeze. traffic is mostly sparse (to non-existent, see above), the roads are wide and well-maintained, even the gravel roads (Schotterstrassen), fairly frequent in out-of-the-way places such as all those wild mountain passes I travelled up and down,
are no problem for a normal car. If mine had just been normal, too. I got my little Shitty Shitty Bang Bang (non-Germans and possibly even all younger people might be baffled here by the reference - sorry),admittedly quite cheap, through the owner of the guesthouse I was and am staying at. The trunk (= Kofferraum) is neither dust- nor waterproof. And as it did rain and I did travel down a few of those very dusty gravel roads you can imagine the sight of my bag at the end of the day. Oh, and the front right tyre was flat twice (strong men were to hand), the lid of the petrol tank only opened when you wiggled a little knob from inside the trunk, the enginde had a hard time coming to life in the mornings ... but it hardly needded any petrol at all! And it did get me back to Capetown.
I have now decided on "Bits & Pieces" as this seems to be what you are getting once again.
I started writing this entry in the garden of the most expensive accommodation I have been staying at these last three weeks. (I know, I
know, Tris, "Travel for less, travel for longer" is what you say and you are so right, but this was to be a special treat and it is.) This is what I wrote then: I have a lovely little cottage all to myself with an open fireplace which I will certainly use even if the weather does not turn - as predicted -, the palm trees are whispering, the birds are chirping, the water is plaetschering ... actually the birds are making quite a racket and the wind is cold, but who cares?
The place is called Fraai Uitzicht and you really have "Freie Aussicht" (an unrestricted view) on the surrounding vinyards. Of course, the winelist in the restaurant is substantial and when I studied it over dinner I found this quote from Madame Bollinger:
"I drink it when I'm happy and I drink it when I'm sad.
Sometimes I drink it when I'm alone .
When I have company I consider it an obligatory.
I trifle it if I'm not hungry and drink it when I am,
otherwise I never touch it,
unless I am thirsty."
But all the places I have been staying at lately have
been really delightful - and for us Europeans very reasonable. A Bed & Breakfast for 25 Euro? Where else do you get that? And the hospitality is fantastic. From a hot water bottle in and chocolate on my bed, to complimentary (that is: free!) sherry in a little glass decanter, the towels decorated with ostrich feathers and an ostrich stencilled into the butter dish, and the breakfasts ... not just your boring continental one with a couple of slices of dry toast and a bit of jam, but fresh fruit salad or a whole plate full of freshly cut fruit, fruit juice of your choice from mango to granadilla,joghurt and crunchy cereal, the fluffiest omelette I had in my life, homemade bread, ... and the bill comes decorated with fresh lavender. All that and more for, as I said, comparatively little money. Who wants to stay in a crowded dorm in a smelly backpacker's?
It's not only the little touches I mentioned, it is the people, the hosts and hostesses, who make your stay so
pleasant. They still care and are interested in where you come from and what you do and give you good tips about where to
go and what to do. I know, not everyone likes the personal touch but I really had a great time.
As you will have realized I am back in Capetown. Und mit Kapstadt sollte mein Blogeintag eigentlich anfangen.
Denn fuer Kapstadt hatte ich mir eigentlich vorgenommen, etwas herunterzufahren und es erst einmal ruhig angehen zu lassen. Aber dann war wieder sooo viel zu tun. Von Bo-Kaap habe ich ja schon berichtet, obwohl ich es falsch geschrieben habe, aber auch nach Robben Island wollte ich, der ehemaligen Gefaengnisinsel (seit 1999 World Heritage Site der Unesco), auf der Nelson Mandela als Gefangener 466/64 (= Gefangener Nummer 466 des Jahres 1964) viele Jahre im B-Block in Einzelhaft untergebracht war. Nach Simonstown, einem Vorort Kapstadts, um die dort ansaessige Kolonie der African Penguins zu besuchen, bei schoenem Wetter auf den tafelberg, eine Tour durch die Townships machen, verschiedene Museen besichtigen, und natuerlich ein bisschen shoppen, Waesche waschen, ein Auto organisieren ... das habe ich dann auch alles (!) gemacht. Also musste ich mich dann "on the road" erholen. Das ist mir glaube ich, auch ganz gut gelungen.
Just one more day now in Capetown and on Saturday it's off to Australia. You'll next
hear from me fom there.
Photos will just be a few today (no photoshop on the road, Bernard) as I do no longer have acces to a resizing programme.
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