Deja Vu

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Yesterday morning, just as we had done at the very start of this trip, we rolled into Cape Town very tired after a sleepless overnight journey (this time on a bus, not on a plane). We took a taxi to exactly the same hotel that we stayed in in our first week - the Townhouse, a gem in the City Bowl. We checked into a room identical to that which we had previously stayed in, but one floor lower down. And, just as at the start of the trip, I found myself still grappling with a dreaded lurgy - this time, shingles!

Yes, I am starting to wonder if I am cursed. I hadn't intended to check up on the efficacy of the South African health system, but developments while in Graaff-Reinet left me with no choice. And I am pleased to report that the doctor and ophthalmologist I saw were marvellous, but then I do have a wallet and travel insurance. Don't feel too sorry for me just yet - I haven't had it too bad so far - but fingers crossed and touching (artificial) wood that it stays that way.

So, what can I report on a more positive note? Graaff-Reinet styles itself as "the jewel of the Karoo" - the Karoo being a semi-desert that covers about a third of South Africa's territory. It's the fourth oldest European town in the country, and it's something of a living museum - chock full of 19th century Cape Dutch houses and public buildings. It has a sleepy, untouched charm. We took a trip from there to the nearby "Valley of Desolation" (you have to work overtime in the marketing department in the Graaff-Reinet tourism office). After a drive through the Camdeboo National Park, spotting mountain zebra, hartebeest and red dassies, plus yellow Karoo acacias, prehistoric elephant foot plants and the succulent bacon bush - I am amazed we have continued to see new flora and fauna at every stage of this trip - we stopped to watch a beautiful sunset. Lava rock dating from the days when the world's land formed a single mass, and the Karoo was connected to Antarctica and South America, formed a stunning foreground to the picture, just across a deep and empty gorge. In the distance, we could see for hundreds of kilometres as the red sun slowly disappeared beneath the Snow Mountains. Yes, that's right, the Snow Mountains - they get real snow here in the winter, which can last for days. It's hard to believe during the 40 degree days, but as the sun set the temperature dropped at a faster rate than I've ever experienced, and suddenly it made sense.

Today, back in Cape Town, we went on a drive down to the Cape of Good Hope - a trip we had to postpone when we set out, due to bad weather. We stood at the point where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet (or so they say round here - others say that point is at Cape Agulhas, further round). We saw the famous penguins at Boulder's Bay, and marvelled at the strange way they walk, and watched the rather malodorous seals playing in the water at Houts Bay. The whole Cape is majestic, crashing surf and white sandy (if shark-infested) beaches.

And now it's nearly all over... we fly back to England on Saturday, and a few days later return to the "real world" of work. It's hard to believe two months have passed so quickly. All things being well, there'll be one more blog when I get back, and hopefully I'll finally be able to "decorate" a few of the previous entries with some photos. Thanks for reading this far..

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Photos

The Valley of Desolation
They've sacked the branding consultants who came up with the name...

It's a Sign
Don't say you weren't warned...

Sunset in the Valley
Not Bad

Penguins
The residents of Boulders Bay