Hiking to the Hole in the Wall . . .

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Hiking to the Hole in the Wall . . .

The main sight I wanted to see here in Coffee Bay is a spot called “Hole in the Wall”: a hole in a cliff naturally formed from the ocean’s crashing waves. Apparently my hostel doesn’t offer daily trips there, but I hooked up with the hostel across the road to go on their trip. Initially, it was frustrating - I kept being given different departure times and every time they’d roll around there’d be more people who just decided they wanted to go on the trip but have ordered breakfast first . . . Finally we set off. And then it was brilliant.

The weather was warm, but the sun was hidden by clouds and there was a constant cooling wind off the water. But this was great, because it was a 10 kilometre / 3 hour hike to the Hole in the Wall!

But what a spectacular walk it was. We snaked up hill and down (thankfully only one really draining intense one), across beaches and streams, past animals grazing and the odd person going about their business. We passed along the edges of cliffs that rolled down to the ocean and over bright green hills dotted with Xhosa homes. It frequently reminded me of what I think Ireland must look like, yet still so specific to here. The whole walk was stunning. Every few feet, I’d look off in different directions - always beautiful.

About 2 hours into our walk, we came to Hlungulwane Falls. The waterfall itself was only a small stream, but the rocks it poured over, the massive crevice formed in the hill and the view of the rolling hills, crashing cliffs and lapping ocean was gorgeous. We walked further up the hill, crossed the stream at the top of the falls, then walked more along the cliff. Then below us, at the water level was “Baby Hole in the Wall”. Very pretty.

Yet on we trekked. Up and over another peak. Then spreading out in the valley below us was the village of Hole in the Wall. It was a beautiful sight - the village, the hills, the distant cliff and crashing waster where we were headed and a gorgeous beach stretched along the shore. Right around now, the sun came out to make the Indian Ocean sparkle blue. It was like it had waited until then to make the view more spectacular.

It took us another half hour or so to cross the village and reach the Hole in the Wall. It is a lovely spot and a nice sight, but after all of the stunning scenery along the 3 hour walk, it felt a bit anti-climatic. We stayed about an hour, just sitting on the shore watching water crash through the cliff. I walked around a bit looking at shells and savouring the ripple sound as waves rolled in hitting the rocks at the shore.

Along the entire hike, frequently I’d see mussel shells on the ground (plus the occasional crab or crayfish) and I kept thinking how lovely mussels would be. What a treat back at the hostel - free oysters and mussels, collected fresh that day! I joined the crowd at the bar and enjoyed some. Then I took most of my share and added it to my pasta. Suddenly my budget dinner was very fancy!

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