"The Seychelles Islands"

---

---

As Paul, my fiancé is from the Seychelles, i personally consider this country my second home already. We fly down to Seychelles Islands at least twice a year. I will be compiling all our trips (including the previous ones) in here and will update this entry regularly or every after a successful trip there and back. Hopefully after reading this, you'll feel like you've been there yourself!

MAHE


There are 115 islands in the Republic of Seychelles and Mahe Island is the largest. The country's international airport is located here. It is advisable to be wide awake during top of descent so you can have a nice peek of the island from the top. At some point, youll feel like the aircraft is about to touchdown on the water as the airport's runway is surrounded by it. The airport is very small so taxi time is relatively quick.


Once you deplane, youll then feel the warm breeze that is typical in an island. Although some months are of course meant to be cooler (during the rainy season), somehow everytime we go there, the weather is warm and humid most of the time. The Seychelles, being composed of small islands, is exposed to very unpredictable weather. The rain clouds do not stay too long. It could be raining on the north side of the island whilst the sun is shining on the south part.


As a very preferred holiday destination around the world, it is very rare that Seychelles require tourists to have a visa. I for instance, reside in Dubai but holds a Philippines passport. In most places, i need to secure a visa prior to my travel. Luckily not in Seychelles! As long as you have your return ticket and a hotel/accommodation reservations, you are most welcome to enter the country.


Outside the airport, a number of services are readily available i.e. car rentals, excursion services (mainly offered by Creole Holidays or Mason's Travel). If you have an international license, it is best to hire a car during your stay. Otherwise, youll have to settle with catching buses or renting taxis. A not-so-good idea at all especially if its your first time there or if youre still not familiar with the place. Besides, if youre driving your own car, youll have the luxury of having control of your time table, going/stopping wherever you want when you want to. No need to worry about changing money as they normally (usually) accept foreign currencies.


The country's capital is called Victoria (others refer to it as Port Victoria) which is situated on the north-eastern side of the island. Apparently, Victoria is even considered to be the smallest capital in the world. Yup, no malls. Not even one! No McDonalds or Burger King or anything like that. Well, i don't think people go there for shopping anyway! Besides, everything is quite expensive. This is because all items youll find inside the grocery shops are imported. Seychelles doesnt produce/manufacture things (at least for their consumption) that much. The country deeply relies on tourism as its major source of income, which i personally found insufficient. There was one time when rice was scarce and we had to visit at least 4 different small shops to secure enough supply of rice until the next batch arrives from somewhere in India and Thailand.


Food lovers (like myself), dont worry! Youll find a number of nice restaurants in Victoria which serve quite a few delectable dishes. You have to try some of their nice local specialties like octopus curry or red snapper in creole sauce. If youre staying in chalets (which are most of the time self catering), of course its still cheaper to cook your own food. But to save you the headache of washing plates, just go to a nearby take away shop, pay less and no dishwashing required afterwards!


The most known part of Victoria is the clock tower which as they say, is a replica of the Big Ben. Other major buildings are also located here which make it busy all day long e.g. the central bank, hospitals & clinics, library, post office, the court, casino, government offices, churches/temples, sports stadium, schools, etc. Major (& minor) commercial establishments youll find are banks, photo shops, couriers, sea and airline offices, salons, restaurants, souvenir shops, bakery shops, grocery shops, florists, etc. I think you can find more or less everything that you need in here, as long as you know where to go.


The highest point in Seychelles is in Mahe, the Mourne Seychellois, with a peak rising to 905 metres. The view from there is simply captivating. Youll also have a quick glance of the diverse flora existing here as the national park houses a few species considered endemic to the island. Want to see a coconut fruit twice as big as your head? Why not spend an afternoon lazy walk at the Botanical Gardens in Victoria (entrance fee is 5 euros for non-Seychellois). Make sure to have a glance at the big tortoises as it could also be the first time for you to meet these wonderful creatures up close and personal. When i encountered the bale, the pleasure was indeed mine.


5 star hotels are all around Mahe too: Banyan Tree, Northolme Hilton, Le Meridien, Maya, etc. Paul and i stayed in Hilton last year (08) and we really loved it. The villas are amazing. The staff are very kind and nice, very professional. One time, they prepared a bubble bath for us complete with champagne and fruits. Oh, they even left us an I Love U note by using various leaves and colorful petals! We were so pampered!
Evidently, these hotels are strategically situated across the island where youll be able to access some of the best beaches in Mahe. Personally, i think the best beach is the Anse Intendance in Takamaka (near Banyan Tree). The long stretch of white fine sand will tickle your toes and the clear blue sea will make you fall in love with it. How can i forget about the boulders?? Theres no way ill forget to mention the presence of big granitic rocks scattered around the beach. These rocks plus the swaying palm trees give the beach a unique character making it stand out. Wait, theres so much more!! Make sure to visit Port Launay, Beau Vallon or know what??? just drive around and stop wherever, bring your own water, book, sun block and a mat and i guarantee youll be doing the same thing again the next day! Fancy some "freshwater" swimming?? Head up to the Cascade Waterfall and enjoy a rejuvenating dip whilst watching local teenagers climb tall trees and dive straight down.


PRASLIN


Praslin Island is next to Mahe in terms of size. Travelling by air is only made possible by Air Seychelles, unless you choose to take a helicopter. They use small aircrafts like the DH-6 twin otter and the Shorts 360. The first time we ventured to the island, we flew on the DH-6 twin otter which accommodates 20 passengers max. It was very hot inside since it is only equipped with vents that only start supplying cool air once you take off. From your seat, you can see the flightdeck crew as there is no partition between the cockpit and the cabin. No cabin crew! (LOL) The third time we flew to Praslin, we tried the Shorts 360. The aircraft can accommodate up to 36 passengers and this time, there was a cabin crew. It was definitely more spacious (or maybe because our flight that time was not full). The flight altitude is usually between 2,500 - 3,000 feet only so be quick during boarding to secure yourself a window seat to get a bird's eye view of the islands.


As expected, the airport is a lot smaller but in a sense better! Since it only caters for domestic flights, there is no need to pass through customs or immigration posts. You can rent a car straight after you exit as car hire staff will be there to meet you like as if they are really expecting your arrival.


The island is definitely preferred by most tourists than Mahe mainly because of its unspoilt beaches, thus assuring more privacy. In fact, some of them dont even bother stopping over Mahe and instead catch the next connecting flight to Praslin. Yes is the answer to the question just forming inside your head. Yes, you'll see a number of topless women strolling on the beach. One place that surely you should not miss is Anse Lazio. Try to google it and you'll find it! The Anse Lazio beach has attained its way up to the Best Beaches in the World list. Three times weve been to Praslin and never did we miss visiting Anse Lazio. To make my point more obvious, just look at the pictures. Really, need i say more??? Truly a piece of paradise!


In addition, it is worth all the effort and energy to go see Vallee de Mai Nature Reserve. I remember one time, Paul was not feeling well but still insisted on taking me inside park (he's very sweet!). The short trek actually helped to make him feel better afterwards. It was truly one refreshing walk! The temperature inside the park is cool and fresh compared to the humid and hot weather that usually lingers on the island. They will provide you a map that offers 3 kinds of trekking basically depending on how much walking you want to do. The multi-purpose map also allows you to identify the various flora and fauna being nurtured in the reserve, most of it are considered endemic to Seychelles. The main attraction is the Coco de Mer palm tree. The Coco de Mer fruit, also known as the twin coconut is a protected species. As the picture discloses, the famous fruit resembles ' a woman's disembodied buttocks'. Before entering the park, they have a table on the right hand side that displays a real Coco de Mer but be careful as the fruit can weigh up to 15 to 30 kgs (it is heavy!). Another attraction are the Seychelles black parrots that freely soar through the canopy (so do not expect to see one in a cage). Consider yourself lucky if you spot one so walk slowly. We got lucky and had the chance to catch a glimpse of 2 black parrots from afar.


Feel like stopping over Zimbabwe??? Well, the highest point in Praslin is within the area called Zimbabwe (",). However, aside from getting a picturesque view of the island, there is nothing really much to do there.


If youre in the mood of playing a round of golf, drive up to Constance Lemuria Resort in Anse Kerlan which boasts an 18-hole golf course. Just be appropriately dressed as they wont let you play if you're not. They also have two lit-tennis courts. Needless to say, the beach accessible from the resort is also worth seeing.


Coming back to Mahe, we booked business class seats on Cat Cocos. The cost is just a bit higher than usual but will absolutely save you from a lot of headaches (which usually are encountered during boarding and disembarking). The catamaran is fully air-conditioned and the seats are spacious and comfy. To keep your eyes occupied, they have a 'movie-onboard' facility (that time they played Cheaper by the Dozen2) and to keep your fingers busy, they have a selection of snacks ranging from chips to sweets. Now to quench your thirst, they have a lovely variety of fresh fruit juices (try the passion fruit juice). The Cat Cocos staff will even offer you some hot beverages before arrival.


La Digue


La Digue is considered to be the fourth largest island in the country. Paul and i have been here together just once so far. As far as i know, you can only visit La Digue via Praslin (its either you take a plane to Praslin then catch a catamaran to La Digue or just hop on a catamaran from Mahe, quick stop in Praslin then head on to La Digue). There is no airport in the island except for one helipad that i have seen. The island is (as youve guessed already) small so 2 to 3 days for exploring the island is more than enough. It would be better if you sit on the upper deck of the catamaran to get a nice view (and ocean breeze) of La Digue say 5 mins before docking. Be sure to keep your camera ready!!


One interesting fact about La Digue is its mode of transportation. Only 5 taxis serve the whole island! We asked one taxi driver the last time were there and he said it took him almost six years just to get a working/driving permit from the government. Apparently, officials are really strict about it with the aim of keeping the island as natural as possible. People here get from one place to another riding their bicycles. You name it: adults and kids are in their bikes everywhere. We hired two bikes for ourselves and paid, i think 10 euro/day (we only stayed there 2 days/1 night). They also have ox-carts! Obviously, these are more expensive but most first timers still try just well, for the sake of trying it.


We stayed at Paradise Fly Catcher (b&b) and i must say, the staff are really nice and kind. A different kind of hospitality compared to Mahe. The self catering villa have 2 units adjoined by a common room (the lounge and kitchen). The fully airconditioned villas are quite far from each other ensuring privacy for all guests. The surrounding is full of trees and flowering plants which is evidently the reason behind the presence of many birds around. The only small problem we have encountered is with regards the water supply as it is being controlled at certain times of the day. We experienced the same thing in Praslin.


After resting, we rode our bikes and headed out to the supermarket to buy some basic items. Its a surprise that the supermarket here in La Digue had more varieties to offer than in Mahe. Although the price range didnt differ that much but at least theyve got everything we required during our stay. We stopped by a take away counter to get something substantial for lunch before dropping off our groceries. Then we spent the afternoon at Anse Source d' Argent swimming, snorkelling, picture-taking and relaxing. Anse Source d' Argent, like Anse Lazio, is also a popular tourist spot world wide. The place is just simply stunning! Picture perfect!! We actually enjoyed the view more than the swim! There were reefs scattered under the shallow water so it was quite a challenge for swimming. Good for snorkelling yes, but not really for swimming. Yup, you can barely recognize me afterwards due to sunburn!!! On our way home, we passed the island's vanilla plantation and the old church called The Lady of our Assumption (thats always featured on postcards of La Digue) which apparently about a century old. For dinner, Paul made some sweet & spicy minced meat and we later on enjoyed a cup of tea.


The next day, we checked out a bit earlier than usual to go see more of the island. We hired the ox-cart and every now and then, the operator stopped and picked different kinds of leaves to show us (i.e. cinnamon/bread fruit/vanilla/etc). When we saw a taxi, we quickly ditched the slow moving ox-cart and jumped in the cab. The driver took us to the north side of the island passing Anse Patates, Anse Gaulettes & Anse Grosse Roche.


Therese Island

During a family holiday in Seychelles (May 2008), we decided to visit Therese Island. This uninhabited islet lies on the westcoast of Mahe, approximately 15 minutes away by boat. Our friend Lambert managed to hire a small boat that swiftly glided on the blue turqouise sea and whenever the boat operator tried to maneuver, sea water splashed on our faces. By the time we reached the islet, we were already soaking wet. There was no one in sight when we arrived. It seemed like the islet that day was reserved exclusively for us!


Like any other place in Seychelles, Therese did not dissapoint our expectations. The white sand surrounding the hilly islet was so soft to the toes and the numerous trees by the beach provided more than enough shade. Paul's mum had been to Therese quite a few times before so she served as our tour guide on the island. She led us to the gorgeous rock formations on the side of the islet. Oh, i loved it to bits!!! I suddenly had a personality change (and became a chimpanzee LOL) and started climbing my way up to the rocks. Some parts were a bit slippery but i didnt care. For a few minutes, i was moving up using my four limbs! The spaces within the rock formations were filled with sea water every time the waves touch the shore. Perfect place fo a dip. My nephew Sam was with us who was 2 years old that time and oh boy, did we had loads of fun!!! Mum made us special lunch and Lambert bought a big red snapper the size i had never seen before which they char-grilled later on.


We spent the afternoon snorkelling. This i have to say: snorkelling in Therese is one of the best! The real adventure only starts once youre under water appreciating life that exists there. So many types of fishes, different sizes and of various colors stared back at me. It was truly a very delightful experience.


Moyenne Island


Creole Holidays conducts boat trips/island tour to Moyenne island: a privately-owned piece of paradise off the north coast of Mahe. After a few minutes of effective sulking (",), Paul agreed to have a break as during that time we were so occupied looking for a suitable piece of land to buy. The next day, we were at the jetty all set with our snorkelling gears, waiting to board the glass bottom boat to Moyenne.


The boat was of relative size, there were maybe 15 of us all in all. The tour guides (one spoke english, italian & german, the other one creole & french) were very knowledgeable not just about Moyenne itself or the islands that we passed along the way, they also know much about marine life, naming all the fishes (and even the reefs) that we saw through the glass floor of the boat. Most of the corals visible were dying (coral bleaching as they say) mainly as an effect of global warming.

---

Photos

Paul and Cleo
Anse Intendance Beach

Seychelles
one of the many beautiful beaches in Mahe

Paul
by the clock tower in Victoria

Paul and Cleo
in front of a souvenir shop in Victoria

Together
enjoying the view from Mt. Seychelles

A little surprise
at Hilton Northolme Hotel

Us
strolling at Anse Lazio beach in Praslin

Me with family
wading in the river that meets with the turqouise blue waters of Anse Lazio

Me
holding a coco de mer inside Vallee de Mai Park

The two of us
checking out the golf course in Lemuria Constance Resort

Enjoying the breeze
and the view from the upper deck of Cat Cocos to La Digue

A very stunning view
of La Digue before the catamaran docks at the jetty

The big tortoises
that youll see inside the Botanical Gardens

A nice picture
taken at Port Launay after a swim

Me
by the fish tails round about in Victoria

The DH-6 twin otter
aircraft Air Seychelles use to Praslin