My Senegalese Song


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Published: October 12th 2008
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Le 22 juillet 2007 (July 22, 2007)
I still have to figure out whether I want to write in French or in English. I think that I have to ponder about the purpose of my blog. Do I want to perhaps publish it through Cabrini, or show it to my future employers by settling with the English language? Or do I want true self-satisfaction by expressing myself in French? Naturally, the French population is a minor one in the USA, so if I picked French over English, and my journal were to be published, I doubt many a people would read it.
I think that I have to appeal to my heart and not what I consider right in terms of the United States standards. I believe that Americans strongly appreciate assimilation that an alien “should” go through when they enter the USA. So, do I want many pats on the back and “congratulations on your writing style, Claire”? French is a beautiful language. If you ever heard somebody speak it, you will surely notice that they must enunciate each syllable, which makes it even more delectable. Oh well, I still have time to make my decision.
So what am I
4-44-44-4

My first week and already acting like the boss
even talking about? My trip to Senegal, of course! I will be traveling to a village 50 miles Southeast of Tambacounda, Senegal for 3 months and a half. Tambacounda is 300 miles away from the Atlantic Ocean. My father had *strongly* encouraged me to stay for 6 months, but if I want to go on to graduate school in fall 2008, I have plenty to do. Hey now, I am not placing the cart before the horse. I just want to set up my agenda next year. Ain’t nothing wrong with that, is there? After all, a fair percentage of Sociology majors usually go on to become social workers. But let’s focus on my current plan in Senegal. According to Jean-Claude, my friend and coordinator of this whole thing, I will be taking care of young children, at their school and maybe at the local hospital. He still needs to get back to me.

Sunday, August 26
One more week until departure! You have no idea how psyched, nervous and stoked I am. People say that spending extended periods of time in poor countries truly changes your life. We shall see, shan’t we?
I recently realized that
Big day...Big day...Big day...

(l.t r) Simon, Top and Calli at our much publicized event against early marriages. The middle one wooed me relentlessly. Sweet guy, too bad i wasn't interested
I packed all the wrong things to go to Senegal. This means that I will be racing around Paris like a headless chicken with my mom to buy the remaining items that I need. I’m lucky enough to have parents who step up when I need help for big projects.
So good bye, cute pink tops with lace and good bye capris. Hello, long button up shirts, calf-high boots and long pants. The only reason for this fashion style--it will be 90 degrees all day long, after all—is the high high presence of Muslim men. Let us not forget that if I work outside and wear regular sneakers, I might end up with a couple of snakes that have their teeth stuck on my legs.
Aside from that, I have all the medication I need to stay alive in Senegal. Tally ho, people, and until next time!!!

Tuesday, August 28
5 more days and I will be on my way to Senegal! The organizer, also my dad’s friend, let me know that I would be spending my first night at a hotel Sunday night as I will be arriving late and the village is about a
What peopleWhat peopleWhat people

The crowd and runners that rallied to our event
ten hour drive from the airport. I will be staying at the Savannah, the costliest hotel in Dakar. In Paris, the price would revolve around 600 euros a night, whereas I will only be paying 50 euros. Despite the low price, I bet the accommodations will be outstanding.
Below is a list of professional and personal expectations and goals that I have compiled while I’m in Senegal. Upon my departure of Africa, I will take a look at it and compare it with my actual experiences I have gone through.
Personal Goals
Become more independent
Give more of myself
Gain more humility
Be less judgmental
Develop my imagination
Be more trustful of others
Listen more
Be less whimsical
Get used to non-luxurious lifestyles
Learn a new culture
Become more curious

Professional Goals
Become more independent
Be more in-charge
Focus more on people’s needs
Be more detail-oriented



Let’s just see how far I go!

Tuesday September 4--I’m here!
I am currently in my hut typing this entry and sitting on a very comfortable loveseat made out of bamboo branches (I think?). I am planning on taking a (well?) deserved nap to forget the heat. Perhaps
Dr.  Zida and his legal wifeDr.  Zida and his legal wifeDr. Zida and his legal wife

one of the most amazing couples I know
I should update what has happened since my arrival in Dakar. So how did I come to be chilling out on this awfully comfortable woven seat? I spent my first night in Dakar on Sunday evening. When I arrived at the hotel, I realized I had taken the wrong suitcase that looked exactly like the one I have. I went back to the airport, found my suitcase, and pleaded with an airport official to take it back with me that night. Monday morning, a driver took me to the village where I will be living another lifestyle. Now, I don’t mean to crack jokes, but you KNOW you are in Africa when you opt to take the dirt road adjacent to the asphalt road. One could call the road to Wassadou Holes, Ultd. Yes, there were THAT many potholes.
While some people are carefree and fearless in all situations, others say that they expect the worst in a situation they will face. I am in neither of the categories. As an open minded person, I knew that the living arrangements were going to match the economic and cultural milieu of Wassadou. Unfortunately, by the end of the car ride
A Serrer and a White girl A Serrer and a White girl A Serrer and a White girl

Serrer people are known to have very, very dark skin: me and the pharmacist's son
the sky was already as dark as a burnt oven. I was very pleasantly surprised when I arrived at my hut. It has the format of an apartment. I have a porch at the front of the hut, with a couple of low seats. When I opened the door I was excited to see I was going to have a 130 square foot bedroom. Yes I measured it! I saw another door and saw a bathroom with a shower, sink and mirror. Finally, I also have several power outlets.
The bed is a full size and covered in a mosquito. The guide pointed out that the net was soaked in permethrin. Permethrin repels tropical insects such as ticks, and mosquitoes that carry diseases. This morning, I woke up and took a tour of the medical site. I have got to say that it is one of the most enchanting sceneries I have seen. One would think they are walking through a resort in the islands (minus the water)The roads were narrow but very well kept and the flora was lush and luscious.


One would think they are at a park
The NGO is named “La maison Medicale Kinkeliba”
2 foot tall wonder2 foot tall wonder2 foot tall wonder

Lil tyke almost ran into me on my way to lunch
and was founded in 2005. A jolly generous man, Pierre Fabre created the foundation. The medical staff is entirely African and each department has his or her own office, also located in separate huts located near the dirt road. They treat patients from local villages. The equipment is fairly modern.
I cannot wait to start working tomorrow!

Wednesday, September 5-Oh well!
Gee it is soooooooo hot! Big news, right? And yes, I made it through my first day of work in one piece. I went to see Betty, the pharmacist and she explained to me what she did every day. After their appointment with the doctor, patients go next door with their, that she fills and copies down on a notebook. I feel like I learned a lot today because she gave me hands on experience. She had me write in the book and take prescriptions. Now, in the USA, one would accomplish these tasks on the computer, but it is ultimately out of the question here. I also showed Betty a little bit of my computer knowledge. She has a laptop which she uses for inventory purposes. Every end and beginning of the month, she makes tables
Hangin outHangin outHangin out

In Dr. Zida's yard
of the remaining medications. Some of the medication are gifts from donors, while the rest is purchased at a pharmacy.
At lunch today, I was talking to one of the workers—(turns out she’s french!) and she revealed that the rest of the huts I saw near the paths were indeed much smaller than mine and that I was living where the president of Kinkeliba sleeps in when he visits. I can’t really feel bad for the others just because I have special treatment. I just got the last hut. There was no other. I have to head to bed because I start work at 8:30 tomorrow and there’s no such thing as being rested up.
Discoveries of the day:
1)Everybody receives electricty in their hut from 1-3 PM and from 7 PM- 1 AM. I want the fan to work while I’m headed to bed so I fall asleep before that time restraint.

2)The Kinkeliba food pyramid consists of starch, a little bit of meat and some more starch. Bread for breakfast (with butter and powdered milk), rice and a side for lunch (covered with plenty of sauce for taste), and pasta or potatoes for dinner. No fruit, veggies
Cutie pieCutie pieCutie pie

just loved my sunglasses
or real dairy. I think I might just call my parents tomorrow (when my cell phone is supposed to finally work) and ask them to send me some nutrigrain bars or something mildly sweet and nutritious.
Tomorrow: I will make myself more useful by staring to learning to locate where the drugs in the medicine closet are. You just gotta see the shelves. Too many to count. I will also learn a couple phrases of the local dialect because many of the villagers don’t speak French and the only thing I can do to communicate is to smile.

Friday, September 7
My involvement with the medical staff is growing by the day. Once again I returned to the doctor’s office and spent time in the back room. With the partial nurse’s partial supervision, I applied dressing and gauze on various wounds. This afternoon, however, work ends at 2 PM, as the medical staff attends their weekly meeting. They discuss their Saturday agenda: they usually supply medical services to villages in the middle of nowhere (not that we aren’t already in the middle of nowhere already).
Despite the half day, spending time in Dr. Valentin’s cabinet proved to supply
One hot coupleOne hot coupleOne hot couple

Dr. Valentin Zida was my "husband" in Senegal. I was his 151st wife, BUT I closed the list, which was a big honor :p
several obvious points. First of all, none of the medical offices have a computer. In consequence, if the doctor recalls the patient from a previous consultation but does not remember any statistics, he can only ask his assistant to find the record number, located in another building.
Speaking of medical records, Pascal showed me the room where all files were kept and the computer on the nearby desk. He pointed out that nobody had time to copy them into the computer, and were looking for an individual skilled in electronics. I volunteered to type the files for him, as I consider myself moderately proficient with computers.
Anyway, I am watching Senegalese TV right now. I can’t wait til tonight’s program. The rugby world cup is starting and I can watch the match broadcasted live!
Fact: Children go back to school in the beginning of October and finish in April or the rest of the year, they must help out their parents with crops.




Saturday, September 8-I like Scavenger Hunts too!!
I tried helping out the French couple with their work on the field. They are both students in
Customs customsCustoms customsCustoms customs

Trying to do what the women do so well: grinding the corn
Agronomy/Agriculture and work on a patch of field half an hour away from the medical village they access by bicyle. Naturally, should I assist them building cement blocks, I too need a bike. Now, the remaining bikes were kept locked in a shed and Frederic, away in Tambacounda this week-end could not help me. So Nicolas, Marine and I asked an alternate person, who told us to go see somebody else, who indicated us to another path where we could find another set of keys. This went on for thirty minutes to no avail. This means that since the doctors are away in the wilderness, I have the week-end to myself!
Fact: some of the local snakes are cobras, pythons and vipers. In contrary to popular belief, they remain hidden and do not wish to attack humans.

Sunday, September 8, 2007~ It’s raining, it’s pouring!
Africa is officially a different continent than any other in the world. Worms here can reach a length of a foot! In rainy weather, such as today, they own this territory. On my way to the kitchen I first thought they were worms

Monday, September 10, 2007—Lather, rinse, repeat!
It has been
VillageVillageVillage

Your typical Senegalese/African village huts
a full week since my arrival in Kinkeliba. I have more or less assimilated to the lifestyle of the autochthonous. I still have not gotten used to that awful smell I come across EVERYDAY. It is not a random smell, a smell of sickness, it is the smell found in sweat and exclusively in Senegal. I am more than certain that my sweat does not reek that much at home.
I’m simply evoking that particular aspect because the smell was so strong that I could barely stand up. You see, many patients step into the pharmacy (where I’ve worked the past week) in work clothes and few of them have already taken showers at that time of the day.. If my equation is right, few showers + humid climate = major stink aboard.

Tuesday, September 11, 2007
6 years ago, a tragic accident happened. Thousands of Americans died and many more were injured. Let’s have a moment of silence to remember them by.
On other news, I have finally started a French version of this very blog I’m typing right now, only it will be more personal and intimate. If you are a relative, you may request a copy
Look at this!!Look at this!!Look at this!!

The original cotton plant
and my lawyer will see to you. Just joking! 

Sunday, September 16, 2007
France is tonight playing Namibia in yet another game of the rugby world cup. I really hope that France wins tonight or they will most likely be eliminated from the competition.
The director of Kinkeliba came back today, and discussed with me what she wanted accomplished in the present time. I need to create a spreadsheet of the medications and their prices. Currently, only the pharmacist knows the prices, and if someone should replace her, they will need the costs. It actually sounds quite simple and I think I can handle that task. And now, for lunch!

Friday, September 21
If there is one thing I absolutely HATE, it’s people who backstab me when I expect it the least. Somebody went into my room and stole 500 dollars (i.e. all the money I had with me). I now know that I must ALWAYS lock my hut. Moreover, Marine was robbed by the housemaid Theresa, a person I thought was of good quality and honest.
Anyway, yesterday I went to Tambacounda with Marine, Simon, Calli, and Pascal Jr to withdraw some
goree 080goree 080goree 080

On the ferry, heading back to the hostel
money. Each of us had their own business to do. We were supposed to go on Tuesday but the trip was postponed twice. Moreover, the car broke down 3 times, which belated our arrival to Tamba.
Moral of the story: if you are in a rush, do not chill at Kinkeliba Maison Medicale because you will most likely experience some kind of delay.
The week-end is finally here and I don’t know what I’m going to do yet. I will probably play with the kids for a little bit, but I must make sure not to give myself entirely to their wishes. I realized that when I give them a piggy back ride everytime I see them, they will ask for more. I need to stay firm and stand my ground, while gentle and kind.

Sunday, September 23.
You know how elementary school teachers sometimes ask kids to collect bugs and bring them to class? I think I could definitely get an easy “A” on that assignment. In the past 3 weeks I have seen spiders (some black, others yellow and black; some as small as the nail of my little finger, others as big as a tea cup), cockroaches,——although the few that I saw were almost dead—wasps, mutant worms—, ants—white, black and red ones—caterpillars, tiny, pink, weird-looking worms, moths, mosquitoes and flies. I think that’s enough for now.
Last night I talked to my dad. I was very glad that he called me because I was feeling particularly homesick. He told me that he received my letter on Friday. This means it took roughly 2 weeks to get to the US. It means John should get my letter by next Friday. Le sigh, it seems so far away. He also told me that my entire family was proud of me. That really warmed my heart. I know I can make it through the remaining 3 months, it’s just tough right now because I am still adjusting to the climate and customs. Oh, and how could I possibly forget that a couple of the people in the medical village have been cracking this rather silly joke about my name: “Clair, it’s clear” Clair in French means clear, understood. Don’t ask me why that’s funny but hey, no biggie, it’s all in good spirit.
Extra! Extra!:no longer will bugs enter my lair. The handyman fixed my mosquito
RelaxingRelaxingRelaxing

Pretty decent view on the Atlantic Ocean
net so that I can tuck the sagging part under my mattress. A couple of nights ago, I found a 2 inch fly-ish looking wasp inside of the protected area. Previously to that alteration, I could only tuck a part of it because the net was installed over the bed frames. Claire is happy now! 
And now for a photo of the cute, cute kids I sometimes play with.



Tuesday, September 25 2007
Today I decided to dedicate this entry to the medical staff in the 24 or so acres. I first spoke to the main practicioner, Dr. Valentin Zida. We were discussing previous patients and I inquired him about malaria treatments that he gave. Half of the patients that come in have common malaria, but Valentin states that he gives seven different treatments.
Treatment one, main drugs: Falcimon and Fansidar. Valentin dislikes this treatment very much because of the side effects of the Falcimon. While Falcimon is meant to cure malaria, it inccreases the common symptoms— -vomiting, nausea, cramps, and chills - reinforces the resistance to the parasite. However, the Senegalese government wants this drug to be used and doctors can only obey the
dakar 021dakar 021dakar 021

Marine (right) and I, our last night in Senegal
law.
Treatment Two, main Drug: Camoquin
Treatment Three, main drug: Quinine
Annnnnnnnd I forgot the rest

I interviewed the dentist, Moustapha Konare and he told me his impressions on his patients and daily life. He is now an ultra-expert with extractions, as 90% of the consultations consist of tooth extractions . He is very glad he chose to be a dentist Moustapha really enjoys the special interaction with his patients. Virtually none of them has ever gone to the dentist before and Moustapha is the first who gets to instruct and show them the importance of teeth.
A couple of months ago, Moustapha states, nobody would come several days in a row. Now, at least two to three people visit his office daily. This alone shows that general and dental health is spreading.
What he does NOT like, on the other hand, is the fact that the medical village is in the middle of nowhere. Few people visit his office, and that surprised him, because after all, he is the only dentist in 10 kilometers. The lack of constant electrical current, warm water and diverse food is a daily battle.
He is “70% sure” that he will leave
Mm dinnerMm dinnerMm dinner

unplucking el chicken
in December to work in a private practice that his former professor is planning on setting up.
As far as his dreams go, he wants to be a dentist in a private/non private practice. He wants to leave in December, even though he wonders his departure that early might be premature. He would also like to continue his relations with the Kinkeliba medical village.

“On se fait chier, quoi” (« Life is Frikin’ boring here)

Friday, September 28 200
Yesterday, some French military stopped by for the afternoon. They are going to rebuild the part of the local school that’s falling apart. For once, we had a decent meal. With rice as the main course, of course. Last night the rain poured and the wind blew like never before. I had to use a blanket for the first time of my stay.
Fatou stopped by the pharmacy today as Betty and I were listening to music and she asked me to show her my dance moves. I first thought of how I danced at parties most of the time, but then I realized that most social dancing consists of grinding. I didn’t want to show her that
A lovely crowdA lovely crowdA lovely crowd

A few of the children who greeted us at the elementary school
kind of dancing because I have to admit, grinding isn’t very aesthetic. In a nutshell, didn’t know how to start. I decided to dance to the rhythm and how I felt like grooving. Nevertheless I felt slightly bashful because I did not know what Fatou would think of my moves.
A little later, I went next door to observe the consultation and as I was leaning back on the counter, Fatou told me that she had found a name for me :Djoumbo. Apparently, Djoumbo is a kind of food put in sauces. She also told me I that I had to find her an American name. I thought that Chelsea is a pretty wide-spread name in the USA so I told her that was what I had decided to name her.
11:39 PM I just saw a survival-of-the-predator episode in my bedroom. I saw a stinkbug and some kind of pink salamander on my wall. The salamander stuck out its tongue and quickly took the bug in his mouth. Now THAT’s nature at its best!

Sunday, September 30, 2007
Last day of the month! Today I wanted to go to Church as I had promised Nicolas but I did not find him when it was time to go. As it turns out, I was too early so I went back to bed until the rugby game started. And of course France won. Next week they will be playing against the All Blacks in Cardiff. I have little faith in a French victory. I had a pretty uneventful week-end but I found out a couple of things about myself.
The first is that I am homesick and it is inevitable that I be so. How funny, as I’m typing this very sentence, “Lying eyes” by the Eagles is playing. So how did I find that I was homesick? Most of yesterday morning, I was feeling, well, sick. I felt I was on the verge of throwing up. I thought reading on the dentist’s porch would help me forget about my physical well being. As always, though, Moustapha and I started talking and I shared my physical state. He told me I was living the same feeling people get when they get seasick. They get queasy because they are unfamiliar with the movements. In other words, I simply wasn’t used the drastic change of scenery and the diet yet. This
I love a man in a uniformI love a man in a uniformI love a man in a uniform

Pape (yummy) was one of the firefighters who came to watch over the burning of the vegetation in November. He decided to be my boyfriend for the day--and we stayed in contact for a while after, too!
instantly made me feel better—physically. The very same instant I admitted that, tears started pouring down my face without me realizing. Next thing I know, I’m saying “I’ll see you later” to Moustapha and running to my hut, sobbing. I locked myself in my room and spent a half hour crying. I was quite surprised of my behavior because I hardly ever cry.
Last night, I had dinner with Betty, her kids, Nicolas and Marine. We had a really good dinner, served on a large platter. This fashion of eating is quite common in Senegal. I like this collective, familial feeling. I then took a couple of dancing lessons from Betty’s cook/babysitter. I *think* I’m getting the hang of it. I know I have a lot to learn in that department.


I also called one of my friends today—for about 10 minutes—that cost me 3 bucks. He agreed he would buy a phone card to talk to me. But hey, it’s my choice to call him, so I choose to pay for the calls.
Now I am about to go to bed for a well-deserved rest.

Friday, October 5, 2007.
Last night, there was a
Big vanBig vanBig van

Senegalese public transportation for you.
really big storm, the kind that keeps you at the bottom of your bed throughout the entire night. I’m mucho glad the week-end has started. I have been so tired the past week or so. I think it’s due to the fact that I didn’t take my medication properly for a couple days. I asked Valentin about it and he said that as long as I didn’t do it on a regular basis, the doxy should still work. However, if it becomes something recurrent, the parasite has the chance to get stronger and build resistance to the drug. I listened to my mom’s advice to put the pill in a small box and every morning I can take it, since I know it will be in it. I will now be vigilant and I must stay so because I don’t want to catch malaria. Ugh, I am NOT a fan of needles and transfusions.
On a more positive note, I received a package this week filled with goodies from home, such as dried fruit and dinner in a bags. I am very grateful for that. I had to go to Tambacounda to get the package and to come back
Senegalese PrideSenegalese PrideSenegalese Pride

Kids singing the national anthem
by “taxi-brousse”, a van with 16 seats where the fee is a dollar and a half to travel 45 miles. However we were 26 for the most of the trip. The driver wanted me to pay an additional dollar for the cardboard ups box, something I plainly refused to do. I told him I was NOT going to pay so he just let me on, after a heated 5 minute(and believe me, 5 minutes can be long as hell) discussion. Even though there was hardly any leg room, and the cramped space, and the smell of sweat, the trip was definitely an experience worth living.

Sunday, October 7, 2007
So, France beat New Zealand last night in the rugby world cup quarter finals. I don’t think anybody expected them to win. Regardless I am so pumped. They will be facing England in the Semi-finals.
Today, I went to Church in Wassadou for the first time. I really didn’t know where to go so Nicolas showed me the way. He’s a pretty hardcore Christian so he goes every Sunday. The original plan was to hitch a ride with the people from Kinkeliba but nobody went. The chapel is a 15-minute bike ride from the medical site.
I was expecting the chapel to be small yet well-built, maybe out of stone. It IS small but it is nothing close to a Western Chapel. It’s a hut with a flat roof, 7 rows of benches (with no back support) on each side of the alley and an altar. The service started 30 minutes late, partly because the priest was late. I enjoyed the service for two reasons. First, it got me closer to God than I had been in a while; second, sometimes the priest read in Wolof, which really showed the true local spirit.

Wednesday, October 10—
I have malaria! Who’d have known? Not me, to say the very least. I thought it was something I would only read about like the article in National Geographic. This here proves that preventive medication against malaria is sometimes insufficient to escape the illness. However, I was taking doxycycline so I have a mild revised edition. I was spared the fever, chills and heavy cramps. At first I was very excited I had malaria because I felt I was living the real “African” experience but that feeling was very shortlived. I basically have to stay 6 hours a day until tomorrow morning and then take meds. It’s not great but on the positive *sigh* I get the rest of the week off from work. I’ve been taking long naps since the transfusions practically knock me out. I am very thankful that I could get treatment on the spot. The doctor instantly prescribed me four IVs and medications and it’s all cheap (the total cost is like 15 bucks). In any case, I’ve never felt this drugged up in my life. I feel airy and I can hear music on a new wave. I wonder if that’s how drug-users feel.
Let’s push negative thoughts on the side. I’m still having a pleasant time in the medical village. Yes, I’m not having a rocking time, but I’m trying to enjoy myself and forget about the friends and food I miss, and that I’m giving so much. It works pretty well.
I’ve noticed that African people *love* soccer. Everytime I watch the sport news to hear more info on the French team and the coming game, and somebody else comes, they say “switch to soccer!! Switch to soccer!” I know I must keep the remote control because otherwise I will NEVER get to watch it. Either soccer or the Senegalese channel where they speak Wolof and dance to wild beats. So I guess that what I’m trying to say is that you had better hope nobody is already watching TV otherwise you’ll end up changing your plans to something else. I think I’m going to take another nap. Dr. Zida said I needed some place with ventilation. I don’t see that happening until 7 when Frederic turns the electricity switch on and the fan in my room won’t turn on til then.

Tuesday October 16, 2007
Tidiane’s sister-in law died this morning. She gave birth to a child last week but was too weak to make a healthy recovery. See, she had already given birth to a kid last year. However, she was still weak. The doctor told her husband not to make her pregnant for another two years. A couple of months later, the wife was expecting another child. What’s more, her in-laws beat and mistreated her. Anne-Marie was feeling too emotional to work that day.

Thursday, October 18
I saw 2 mothers give birth the past 24 hours! The first took place at around 10 PM last night. A minor gave birth to a dead four-month-old foetus. When I left the room last night, I felt a huge surge of respect toward African women. They must go through so much pain and endurance to give birth to a child.
Today I saw another birth because Diara had rushed over to tell me the news. The lady looked like she had given birth to quite a few other kids because she wasn’t making any sounds at all. She seemed quite used to the ritual.


Saturday, October 20, 2007
Today, I got to see the school that the French military are rebuilding. It’s located 10 minutes by car from the medical village. When I arrived at the site with the French interns, some of them were playing badminton, so I teased them about having to overwork. One of the classrooms had fallen apart, ceiling and all. Not very surprising, as storms here can be quite brutal and the quality of the construction isn’t exactly top notch. From what I can see, the military have built new walls, installed new restrooms. I told the director that I had brought supplies of crayons, pencils, sharpeners and erasers in case he needed more. He seemed very happy and upon our departure asked me when I was coming back. I will make him, the teachers and the kids very happy.
On our way there, there were wonderful photo ops that all of us took. We stopped by a mosque and saw a couple of very cute villages.



Monday, October 22 2007
A French dermatologist and her daughter are spending the day at the Kinkeliba to receive Albinos people.

This kid is not European or American. He is solely African. The dermatologist spoke to me about the various repercussions of being an Albinos. For instance, they are color blind, and they grow large rashes on their skin when exposed to the sun even if every inch of their body is covered with clothes

Saturday, October 27, 2007
I got into 2 arguments with Betty this week. It wasn’t very pleasant but I think I learned from them. The first time Betty was yelling at me, she told me I ask too many unnecessary questions in front of patients. I guess she does have a point. Yesterday, the doctor was performing an ultrasound and he was describing to me what he saw in medical terms. So of course since I didn’t go to med school, I asked him for specifications, completely forgetting the patient understood French and didn’t necessarily want to know everything that was wrong with his liver. I swore I would now watch my words in the near future because I am sure it can get me in trouble.
Betty and I got in another row yesterday afternoon. The French military had stopped by the medical village to drop off their leftover packaged food for us in the prospect of maybe. The French nurse working in the military had said they would see what we would do with it. I thought I could take a couple of individually wrapped chocolates but apparently I shouldn’t have. What’s more, I had talked to Pascal about the cardboard boxes and he didn’t know about them. Betty’s “boss” is Valentin, not Pascal. When she overheard the conversation between Pascal and I, and I came back to the pharmacy, Betty’s anger just erupted and she shouted that Pascal now thought we condescended him because he wasn’t aware of the boxes, and that if she wanted, she could banish me from the pharmacy, and that I should have shut up on the first place because nobody told me to speak to Pascal. Well thank goodness everything is fine now, I apologized and told her I would simplyy obey orders and not act on my wishes. You can’t always be right. I’m an intern and interns are allowed to commit mistakes.

Tuesday, October 30, 2007

Wednesday, October 31, 2007
Whew! Today was as full as a new jar of honey! I explored new places in Eastern Senegal that I am bound not to forget. I went with two French men, Marc and Patrick to the original Kinkeliba medical site. Those Parisian men are spending the week in Wassadou. Patrick is an ORL and was receiving patients at the Kinkeliba. Marc owns an antique shop and has opened several kindergarten locations in the area. Marc brought me along today because I told him last Sunday that I want to become a kindergarden teacher. I was pretty psyched that he invited me. We left at 8:30 AM and the driver took us to the medical village. Patrick set up the consultation room and started receiving patients at 10 AM. Everything had been carefully planned. A representative from the Wassadou village had announced at the radio the presence of an ORL. Hence, patients flew in and out and we left at 3:30 PM. Patrick would make prescriptions for the patients. Most patients had hearing difficulties. One was 60 % deaf in one ear and 80 % deaf in the other. Patrick had them wear a helmet and he would press a button that let out a sound and even I could hear it. Poor man >.<
I must say that the the Kinkeliba at Sinthian is very cute. The structure is rather different than the site in Wassadou. The medical staff includes only a doctor, a nurse and a nurse’s aid. A full time gardener, cleaning lady and guardian also work there. Here are a few pictures of Sinthian:


After Patrick was done with his patients, we went to 2 other villages to see how the kindergarten schools that Marc (the antique shop owner) had established upon his multiple trips in Senegal. It was sooo cute, because when we got there, about 20 kids came out and took our hands. I had about 5 holding my right hand and 6 holding my left hand/arm. The classrooms were in little huts. The quantity of toys was considerable and took up a quarter of the hut which was pretty big. It was like kid heaven.




Sunday, November 4 2007
Yesterday afternoon, Nicolas, Marine, Mustapha and I went to the camp site to the camp site. We wanted to row some bit on the Nieriko river. Unfortunately our plan fell through. Hippos live in the river and right now is the season where many female hippos give birth. If we came across a baby hippo, the parents would not hesitate to charge toward us and capsize the boat. We biked to a bank further down, and after hesitating a little bit, Marine and I dove in the water. The temperature was absolutely perfect.

Monday, November 12 2007
I think I should talk a little bit more about my personal life. Sure I fill hundreds of prescriptions every week and granted, I enter patient info in the computer, but my life’s not so bi-dimensional, after all. Two men that I’ve met tell me they love me very much. Even since I started to visit the shop, a 20-something military had oggled at me. The guy in question, named Top, told me several times that he liked me with no end. He kept inviting me at his hut in Wassadou but I always declined the offer. Yesterday, he asked me for the umpteenth time if I liked him the way he likes me, and I stated “no”. Ever since yesterday, he’s acted sad. Today, Betty who overheard a conversation between Anne-Marie and I about Top said he was already married. He’s a Faithful Muslim and has the right to four wives. Maybe he wanted to marry me.
Another young man fell in love with me. He comes to the Kinkeliba on a regular basis and has seen me multiple times. Last week as I was coming back from the school where I now work at, I saw he was walking. We decided he would bike and I’d sit on the luggage rack. Two days later, the man, whom we shall name Gus (I forget his name) gave me a love note stating my beauty and features he loved about me.
Now, I have a cold so I am about to turn off the light. Marine suggested that I caught the cold because of the cold showers we need to take in mild weather.

Tuesday, November 13 2007
Incredible but true! Today we finished work at 1 PM, the first time ever since my stay at the Kinkeliba.
Fact: Most people keep their money in their scarf. That is, they open up a section of their scarf, lay a 5000F bill on it, and wrap the fabric around to tie a tight not. It’s quite practical and a no-brainer!

Saturday, November 17 2007
11:30 PM Not much had been going on this week. I am used to days filled with work and unexpected activities. Tonight Marine, Nicolas and I walked to a village named Bady where the cook had said was going to be a dance. The cook, Madame Sedibe lives there. At first, around 9:30, there was simply a fire and 2 people were playing the drums. Many of the villagers were grouped around the fire. The kids immediately noticed when Marine and I were taking pictures; they followed us everywhere and begged us to take photos until Marine thought smartly to stow away our cameras.
Here are some pictures of tonight’s event.

I find it funny that the woman was dancing while her child was probably sleeping.


The fuzzy looking people are kids dressed in hay. Essentially, they gathered hay, made a hat and a robe out of them and them wore them. They would then remove their attire and whirl it around on the ground. Some of them jumped through the fire

We all definitely had a good time. The children were the main dancers. The drummers never seemed to be tired of tapping the lively beat. Sometimes they would drum louder and everybody clapped very fast. I think we would have stayed longer if more people were dancing. With the exception of the mother and an old man, we did not see any adults dance. Madame Sedibe—whom we did not see in Bady— later told us everybody begins to dance at around 11.

Tuesday, November 21st, 2007
Had me a rather fun-tastic week, last week. Last week I only worked 2 days out of the entire week last week.
Tuesday, I went to the “city” for the entire day to prepare for the event that’s taking place on November 24th. So the dentist and I went and we didn’t do half of the stuff we were supposed to do. At 9 AM, I asked Moustapha, we have GOT to go, I am NOT spending the entire day in Tamba, I hope you have the papers ready. “Oh, oops, I don’t have them”. We ended leaving the Kinkeliba at 10:30. I was quite mad at him and trying to keep my temper. He was really carefree about it. He said there would be no worry. The thing is, carefree Moustapha + the fact that Moustapha does NOT go to Tamba often + the entire medical staff that needed food picked up(e.g. “buy me 5 pounds of carrots, etc”)= a whole day of going through the markets and stores and me thinking “the director’s going to yell at us”. We ended up coming back at 8 PM. Gah.
Wednesday, I went with a French doctor and a French antique shop owner in various villages. The doctor is a nose, ear and throat specialist while the other was in the adjacent room teaching himself Spanish. Quite a few patients had hearing difficulties. One guy was 60 % deaf in one ear and 80 % deaf in the other. Patrick had them wear a helmet and he would press a button that let out a sound and even I could hear it. Poor man >.<
After Patrick was done with his patients, we went to 2 other villages to see how the kindergarten schools that Marc (the antique shop owner) had established upon his various trips in Senegal. It was sooo cute, because when we got there, about 20 kids came out and took our hands. I had about 5 holding my right hand and 6 holding my left hand/arm. The classrooms were in little huts. The quantity of toys was considerable and took up a quarter of the hut which was pretty big. It was like kid heaven.
Thursday was a Roman Catholic Vacation, so we did not have to work because some of the staff are Christian. I slept til 1 in the afternoon.
Saturday afternoon, Marine, Nicolas, Moustapha and I wanted to rent rowboats, for a relaxing evening and go fishing. However, the rental boat owner told us we were forbidden to do so because hippos live in the river and right now, birth season is in full bloom. and if we bump a baby hippo, mommy hippo will charge at you and chances are we would capsize. We opted for plan B: we hopped on our bikes once more, and rode to a different site also near the river. At first we were just staring at the water, then Moussy.
Tomorrow I’m going to the local kindergarden to give out the school supplies and see how I can help out. I have just about 1 month and a half left. Wow. Has time gone by slowly or fast? it’s really hard to tell!
Oh, by the way, I have a real Senegalese Name now: Naffi Satou Zida. Zida is the last name of my “Husband” (the doctor—I am his 151st wife but at least I closed the list. Or so he says). Of course the wives thing is a big joke. My name was supposed to be Coumba but the pharmacist became angry and said “Coumba” was her Senegalese name. See, she only has a Christian name because she is Catholic. The nurse’s aid decided my secret name would be Coumba Jumbo. Why Jumbo? Because in Africa, it is the name of chicken/meat broth and it supposedly tastes very good and I look good so it all goes together. Right?

Saturday, November 24, 2007
I am too, too tired to start typing about today’s event. All I’ll say is that I got a free T-shirt

Sunday, November 25 2007
So yesterday we had the bi-annual……no, not the sales….cross event. The Kinkeliba organized a full morning and afternoon to fight against precocious marriages. Precocious marriages consist of a young girl in her midteens marrying a man twice her age, Even though it isn’t as common here anymore still happens and can yield to very unhealthy consequences; premature births at an age when a girl’s body is still developing.
The event started with races departing from various locations depending on the competitor’s age and gender. I was greeting people at the finish line and I think there were 300 of them. The event lasted for less than a day but the preparation took many weeks of hard work. Let me say that, doing the inventory of the prizes sponsors had given us was so tedious and long. Marine and I were in charge of deciding the prizes the top ten competitors in each category.


Tuesday, December 4--OMG!
If everything had gone as the french administration had planned, we wouldn't be where we are right now. Due to some major drama inside the organization (which included the current president of the organization becoming banned from Senegal for a year), we were told last night that we were to pack our belongings for the next day so we could go back to Paris, "for our protection". So last night at 9 PM, Marine, Nicolas and I went around the village to bid farewell to the staff. We really thought we were leaving! Some of the staff were on the verge of tears. But today, we got up at 4, left at 5 AM and had to stop by some office to straighten some official papers. Turns out, we stayed there for 3 hours because one of the French guys who was with us was in trouble because they thought he was involved in a rifle issue. I'm not allowed to talk about it. Nicolas, Marine and I, and the 4th french person waited there for 4 hours under the sweltering sun, dreading our return to Paris, our stay being cut short for some "thing" we weren't even involved in. Guess where I am now? The Kinkeliba! Everything got straightened out, so we're staying another week. Yeah....


Tuesday, December 11
We left the Kinkeliba yesterday and now Marine, Nicolas and I are in Thies, 2 hours North West of Dakar, not too far away from Mauritania. Marine and I had to sleep in the same bed as we are sleeping at Soya, Mamadou 's (our friend from Kinkeliba) brother house and he was kind enough to let us sleep in a "bedroom". I do NOT think I was going to be in the same bed as Nicolas. Anyway, we visited Thies with Soya and the 3 year old girl living next door. Thies is a really quiet town, and as it's technically a large town, the main beauty of it are the Maures, those Africans with the caramel skin color.

Saturday, December 15
We got into Dakar. I’m going home in just 2 days. I had an eye emergency—apparently I had some kind of allergy and I had to go to the doctor who prescribed me some drops. I have realized due to the past couple of trips, that Nicolas, Marine and I may not feel like tourists, but we are still treated like tourists by the locals. The shopkeepers still try to sell us their merchandise at a “student price” (whatever that is) and I’ve been wondering if their heart sinks when we lower the price of the pair of shoes or the bracelet. Bargaining is a national sport, over there, but how low can they actually go? If only we had been trained with “The price is right” or “deal or no deal” we would learn that we could maybe go even lower.
Anyway, tomorrow, we are going to the Goree island.

Sunday, December 16
Today was grandiose. We took the ferry to Goree Island. There are only a couple thousand inhabitants on this island but plenty of them have their shops where they sell paintings (you gotta admit the paintings look nice) and jewelry made out of large beads. I especially like 2 aspects of that island. First of all, it is very historical. African slaves lived in tiny cells and when the European took them to the boats that would take them to America. That IS very sad fact, thought. Second of all, the houses are very colorful. They are either painted in a pastel yellow or dirty red.




Monday, December 17, 2007, 9:30 PM
It’s almost time to board the plane. I don’t know about the other two, but I feel light-hearted, sad and calm. I have spent exactly *let me count for a second* 106 days in a country I knew little about. Granted, I had read Lonely Planet’s book, but I ignored the culture and the behavior. What’s more, few people in the area spoke French. I go to the Spa regularly in the US, my kitchen always provides something tasty, I go to the gym, and have hot water a go-go. I’ve NEVER had a problem with language. I am lucky enough that I have a cell phone and my own laptop.
And then suddenly, I am in a medical village in the midst of wilderness, 50 miles away from the closest town. Africa has many features standing out. And you know what, it was no big deal.at.all. I had rice with whole fish (you know, the kind of fish still wearing his fins and head) every day for lunch At dinner we had couscous or some kind of chow usually wheat related. excepted for the last week. I could not complain because these are the customs and to me, refusing to eat that food would be insulting the Senegalese culture. A few vegetables here and there would certainly have been nice. I also had to deal with the extreme weather conditions.
Everybody at the Kinkeliba is very nice and you learn to become friends with them with their flaws, not despite their flaws. People there are entirely real. I was not afraid that might be hiding their emotions, that they were acting a specific way when they are in fact angry at you. I became particularly close to one of the gynecologists because she doesn’t judge me. Of course, I had to deal with Betty’s sporadic bellowing and I still kept my temper. I became conscious that yelling in return would not assuage the situation.
When I came to this country, I just could NOT believe that a long experience in a third world country would be a life changing experience. It is kind of hard to explain the causes for this transformation. I spent many evenings laying on my bed, thinking how I could enjoy the lifestyle as much as possible. I need to interact with my family and friends and the Western society to see just what elements have changed in me. All right, I’ve got to go. Talk to you soon!

December, Saturday 22, 2007—Back in France!
I am in the train riding in the direction of Bretagne, where my family and I will spend Christmas. Earlier in the day we held the engagement party for Nicolas and his fiancée Marine. Isn’t that crazy? Marine and Nicolas in Senegal are not related to me at all. Everybody on my side of the family—(50 of the gazillions of cousins and relatives I have) told me I had completely changed physically and mentally. I can say I completely agree with them, as my tan was as brown as sand paper.


Everything went smoothly and I slept for the entire afternoon. I have definitely been feeling tired since my return to Paris. Sleep has nothing to do with it. I walked around my neighborhood to reassimilate myself to a city life. The neighborhood was bustling with people and I felt like there was no room for me. I felt like there was no place to close my eyes, take a deep breath and experience true relaxation. From this past Tuesday to Saturday, I felt out of place and exhausted. Thank goodness my sleepiness is gone.

Sunday, January 5, 2008.
Happy belated New Year! This is my last entry. I’ve been back for 6 days and I feel less awkward around my friends. I visited my friend in Conshohocken on New Year’s Day. I just sat on the couch and could not find of anything to say. We simply talked about his job, a little bit about my experience in Africa. Our casual convo was interrupted by several long periods of silence and that usually never happens. I was thinking along the lines of “Awkwarddddd”. But I’m not worried at all. I haven’t seen them in 4 months and it’s just part of the relearning process. I have a lot of things on my plate (grad school applications, GRE’s and such). As Sting would put it, it’s a Brand New Day.


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19th October 2009

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29th July 2010

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