Blogs from Rwanda, Africa - page 31

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Africa » Rwanda » Province du Sud March 9th 2008

There was a time when Butare, in the south, was on track to become capital of a post-independence Rwanda. Home to the country’s first university, a busy center of intellectual life, it seemed as good a place as any to plant the roots of a new nation. It was, however, buried deep in the south, just a few miles from the border with Burundi, and in the end, Kigali was chosen because of its more favorable, geographically central location. Decades later, with development booming in Kigali, it’s easy to see how the two cities’ fortunes diverged. Butare is small, sluggish, provincial - a rough stretch of souvenir shops and guesthouses on the Kigali road, a handful of auto-part stores and dress shops scattered along a side road looping out toward the market. The drive into town ... read more
Moto
'Do you know Jackie Chan?'
A big bottle of whoop-ass

Africa » Rwanda » Ville de Kigali » Kigali March 5th 2008

I’ve hooked up with an American staying at the auberge - a PhD student researching her dissertation on gender and post-genocide justice in Rwanda. Having put in time at the genocide tribunal in Arusha - and planning to spend the next month interviewing survivors around the country - Jenna proves to be good company for a few days around Kigali. She tells me about the Kagame government’s strict control of the genocide narrative, about the journalists and aid workers who have been unceremoniously booted from the country for asking the wrong people the wrong questions. There’s a sober diligence to how she recounts these stories, and the stories of the survivors she’s interviewed - a natural consequence, I suspect, of making a living in genocide justice. But she’s blessed with a quick, wicked laugh, and a ... read more
Crucifix with rosary
Burnt poster
Ntamara

Africa » Rwanda » Ville de Kigali » Kigali March 2nd 2008

If you’ve come to Rwanda for anything other than gorillas, your first days are bewildering, full of contradiction. Western knowledge about this country begins and ends with the genocide, yet it’s been almost fourteen years since that terrible chapter in Rwanda’s past was written. President Kagame - despite certain authoritarian tendencies, or perhaps because of them - has helped this country rebuild in ways that most people would’ve considered unimaginable just five years ago. In the past decade, Rwanda’s boasted one of Africa’s fastest-growing economies. Kigali is on a short list of the continent’s cleanest and safest capitals; on its leafy streets, where freshly planted trees litter the sidewalks with their blossoms, you can’t easily imagine the checkpoints, the mass graves, the dogs feasting on the bodies of the dead - scenes played out in endless ... read more
Kigali.
Stained glass, Gisozi Memorial
Africa's a mess

Africa » Rwanda » Ville de Kigali » Kigali March 1st 2008

Most of March was spent setting up my life in Rwanda - buying a cell phone, bed and mattress, kitchen stuff, putting up the bathroom curtains, and of course celebrating in style. I live with three other young women in a house at the top of one of the thousand hills of Kigali. We have a beautiful porch, which also doubles as my kitchen table, living room and dinning room (i.e. I sit on my behind at the top of the stairs to eat and hang with the gals!) This porch is also redeems the house! It has a fantastic view of the surrounding hills and at night makes for a wonderful observatory! When not zipping along on the moto, I use the "mutatu" or taxi bus. We can fit four people per row, which results ... read more
Check out my cell phone!
Testing out our mattresses
shower curtain

Africa » Rwanda » Ville de Kigali » Kigali February 28th 2008

After catching my connecting flight in Addis Abba, I finally arrived in Kigali just after noon. After breathing a sigh of relief at the arrival of my lugguage, I was greeted by two other interns, Marissa and Ally! I was able to eat, take a shower and settle down at the guest house, where I stayed until moving into my house. A few hours later I was zipping on the back of a "moto" heading to the UK embassy's weekly pub night and then having dinner out in a beautiful backyard of one the many restaurants. Less than 24 hours in the country and I was attending a conference on the quality of the resolution process with respect to land disputes. The conference was a perfect introduction and summary of the current dispute process dealing with ... read more
Mariss on the moto
First time on moto
posing on moto

Africa » Rwanda » Ville de Kigali » Kigali February 28th 2008

It’s a short, easy crossing at the border - the guards, grinning and bashful, pump my hand and welcome me to Rwanda - and the drive to Kigali is long, cramped, scenic. The road winds along a lush valley carved by tea plantations and lined by eucalyptus trees. Villagers stoop in the afternoon heat, plucking tea leaves from the low branches. Women with colorful headscarves walk single-file down dirt paths, propping bright parasols against their shoulders. We pass through small, scruffy villages and fields being worked by bare-chested men with spades. The country is intensely cultivated; even the steep hillsides are neatly terraced, and it’s hard to imagine how this crowded little country manages to sustain itself. There’s a congenial din in the back of the minibus, filled mostly with Ugandans visiting family across the border. ... read more
Auberge la Caverne
Pan Afrique
View


I came to Rwanda with relatively little knowledge and even less expectations about the place. I knew there had been a recent genocide, I knew there were some gorillas hanging about somewhere, and I knew very little else. But now I’m a little more educated. Rwanda is obviously synonymous with the 1994 genocide. Up to 1.5 million of their people were massacred during a few months of immense bloodshed. Since that tragic scar the nation has progressed at an unbelieveable rate. They do not pretend it never happened and openly face up to the stigma. In 1998, president Kigame took charge, following a well-trodden route to power in Africa - from child refugee to guerrilla leader to president. During his premiership Rwanda has introduced several policies and reforms that are years ahead of other African nations. ... read more
Cutting our way through the jungle
Tracking the Susa gorillas
The Susa kids


Well, we have been back from Tanzania and Rwanda for little over a week now and are slowly assimilating everything we saw and did. I know I keep using words like amazing and stunning but that is what the whole trip was - an amazing experience - and I don’t think we will ever look at the world in quite the same way. Hopefully these memories will stay with us for a long time. It seems hard for us, in our society, to comprehend how people can have so little and yet be so happy, Children in Tanzania and Rwanda have nothing, literally nothing, and yet they roam around with the biggest smiles on their faces. Children in first world countries (North America in particular) pout if they do not get the second slice of chocolate ... read more
Just hanging out
I'm watching you
The only way to travel

Africa » Rwanda » Ville de Kigali » Kigali January 10th 2008

Jan 10,2008 Hey everyone I've made it to kigali before yesterday at night made connections through brussels and arriving here at about 8pm. I was a little nerves at first considering the embassy said I should have gotten a visa before coming.... but as luck would have it i met another Brasilian in the immigration line(she informs me that there's only about 10 registered brasilians in rwanda so I think i was really lucky) and she said not to worry so I didnt, paid $60 and got through in no time...immigration officials very helpful here...She works for a an NGO here and we should be meeting to go out this weekend. Hoped on a cab went off to my hostel....couldnt go to sleep because i was so excitedm so i went to the bar and ... read more


Rwanda packs a fair punch for a small country - sometimes beautiful, sometimes grim, but always fascinating. ... read more
Someone's design?
Mud
Home, sweet home




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