Kigali

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Sarah and I were both excited to realize we slept in pretty well this morning, but then we realized we didn’t change our watches and got up the same time as normal. But it was a nice long sleep, regardless. And no rush this morning. The only problem I had last night was with the mosquito net. I fell asleep before we wrapped it around the bed, so Sarah did before passing out; there were multiple times in the night I was tangled in it. One time in particular, I was trying to move it and there was enough static that it was sparking at me! Honoline had to work today, so she arranged for another Choir kid, Clemens, to show us around Kigali.

Joseph set breakfast out for us- the Agashya juice that is so famous here, some bread and butter along with some fruit, and the Double-Stuf Oreos we brought as a gift. I like this guy. We watched the news on the channel while we were eating. Clemens came in as we were just veging and we hit the road.

In the first taxi, Sarah made a friend. There was a man in the row in front of us who was either still drunk from last night or just regular drunk from ths morning. He looked at her and said, “I love you. You love me. We be together.” Something along those lines. Then I guess he gave Clemens strict orders, in Kinyarwanda, to show us a good time in Kigali.

Our first stop was the orphanage. If I remember correctly, we took a taxi to the taxi park, got on a bus that took us somewhere else, and then 2 taxis and a walk to get to the orphanage. On the way in, we met Papa Damas, who is the guy who runs the orphanage, and has for years. When we got inside, we got a tour by Clemens and met a bunch of people and then I pulled out the Frisbee and got some of the older boys to play with me. We chatted a little, but they don’t speak much English, and I don’t know any Kinyarwanda. We had a good time, though. Both boys looked to be about 15 and were in the 6th grade. Again, I looked at them as I do my high schoolers and asked “Why us?”

Sarah was playing with the little ones, and then they came and joined us. Another boy came over, and quickly we realized that he was deaf and was signing everything. We both know enough to sign our names to him and continue playing. Then, one of the other boys started signing to him and they were talking back and forth; the second boy had been playing with us and had enough English to translate.

I went to talk to other kids for a while. Some boys were playing checkers on a homemade board, while others next to them were practicing flashcards. They weren’t math flashcards, but Fisher Price word flashcards, “Ages 2-5.” The kids were trying to learn English. I was teaching them how to pronounce the words in English, while they taught them to me in Kinyarwanda. There was also a boy there, named Joven, who was in the Choir, so he spoke great English and was helping translate and spell for me.

The orphanage where we were is where Honoline and Clemens grew up. Many of the Choir kids from Rwanda come from that orphanage. There are about 125 kids who live in 6 dorms, each with a mother. The dorms are named things like Dormitory Smart Boys and Dormitory of Peace. Like I said, it’s a pretty decent place, and all of the kids are in school.

We took them a suitcase full of clothes and medication. I asked Honoline what they needed most, and she said they really needed clothes for the bigger kids. My grandkids generously donated lots of their clothes to these children, who are not so different from them. We need to take this suitcase back with our things in it, so we hauled it all around Kigali with us, only leaving it in a taxi once.

It’s amazing to think that this great city, only a little over a decade ago, was in turmoil. Genocide ravaged the country in 1994, leaving no one unaffected. (Actually, “practice genocides” and hard-core racism started as early as 1959.) Last week, they celebrated Liberation Day. Sarah asked who it was liberation from, but it is a day that marked the end of the war. Liberation from itself. It was the 15- year anniversary, and we’re told it was quite a party.

Clemens gave us some good insight into the politics and things of Rwanda, especially since the genocide. I’ve heard and read great things about President Paul Kagame, and she reinforced that. One commentator suggested that he did in the 10 years after the genocide in cleaning up the country is something that most African countries haven’t been able to do in a century. From what we can tell, the economy seems pretty stable, lots of people are working or in school, and he even started a new program where kids in the village can go to school for free- something almost unheard of in East Africa.

Sarah and I both agree that Kigali is much better than Kampala. A lot of it is just that it’s not as crowded and it’s much cleaner. There is far less trash everywhere and more roads are paved; there are even sidewalks! Plastic bags are illegal here, to keep them out of farmers’ soil. All in all, there seems to be less chaos here than there is in the capital of Uganda. It’s definitely somewhere we’d both like to visit again.

We went to Nakumatt, which is sort of the African equivalent of Walmart, as in they have everything. We found most of what we were looking for and picked up some sodas. Then Clemens took us to another market where more traditional stuff was sold to find some gifts and things. I got a super cool wood carving of Africa, which I have seen in other shops; it shows all of the countries.

After a bit of shopping, we headed for the Genocide Memorial. It was pretty cool. I’ve read bits about the genocide and how and why it happened, but this told some cool stories I hadn’t heard. Clemens was with us to add in some things she knows, too. The storyboards told what life was like before the genocide, and specifically before colonization. Then it told of the plane crash, which was sort of the kickoff for the killing sprees. We heard stories of victims, stories of survivors, and stories of those whose lives are changed forever. One of the coolest parts told stories of the heroes- people who risked everything to save others. Clemens was kind enough to point out a familiar name- Damas Gisimba, who we met earlier in the day. He gathered over 400 children and adults in the orphanage during the fighting- all of those lives were saved. Talk about a legacy.

We had lunch of sausage and chips at a local restaurant- the first meal “out” we’ve had since we’ve been in Africa. The sausage was super spicy, but overall it was good. They have a certain type of ketchup here, which is very good. Some even say it rivals the ketchup in the West.

We made the long trek home- again it included several taxis and a bus followed by a jaunt down the hill. We each took showers. Actually, we washed ourselves with a basin of water, but it felt nice. Silver lining to bucket showers: hot water. Joseph cooked up some water for each of us to bathe in, which is much more preferable to the cold dripping at Prossy’s house. But I’ll take what I can get wherever I am.

Clemens was in the Choir with Honoline, and then stayed at the orphanaged to attend school. Currently she lives with her folks in Kigali and is finishing secondary school. She is the 6th of 8 kids, and all of them live at home, save for one that is married. We found out that in Rwanda, you don’t move out of your parents’ house until you get married- even if you’re 30 or older! So I’ll be able to live with my parents for a long time!

Speaking of marriage, let me tell you something: African men are way handsome! I’d even say they’re better looking than American men. They’ve got muscles coming out of their ears and in great shape overall. Those who can grow facial hair do so and keep it well-groomed. And as a bonus, they can sing!

I only took 11 pictures today, which is a little impressive for me.

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Comments

[Gamosan]

Kagame & RPF
I recently returned from Rwanda and I too was struck with the rapid restabilization and economic growth that the country is experiencing. What the RPF did in 1994 was commendable. They saved millions. However: Rwanda is a police state today. People aren't allowed to be anti-RPF; they don't discuss politics often at all. Much hatred still simmers deep in some Hutu-Power supporters' hearts. If you get a chance, try visiting Nyamata or Murambai. The docents there will tell you about the threats they receive. The RPF has also committed many atrocities since 1994 (see Kibeho). A deep rift still exists in Rwanda. Thank god they have a powerful government who is able to keep is stifled, but it's still there, and someday it will reemerge. When Kagame dies the FDLR will invade, and many Hutu Power supporters from within the country will rise up and fight. It's a sticky situation. Both sides have committed great atrocities. Enjoy your stay in Rwanda; it's a beautiful country! I would recommend heading up to Ruhengeri and the Verungas.