Magnificent Morocco

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I had a wonderful twenty-day trip to Morocco in July. Eager to return and explore a country that I had not seen in more than two decades, I was not disappointed. My previous trips to Morocco were spent primarily in the capital with extended family. This time, I wanted to explore beyond the cities and venture into the Atlas Mountains and to the Sahara. Having many family contacts in a foreign country has advantages, but when too many people try to control the itinerary, complications are inevitable. I did enjoy my visit to Rabat and sites like Kasbah des Oudayas, the Medina, Mohamed V Mosque (currently being renovated) and Chellah should not be missed.
I arranged for a personalized tour of the country and relied on a Moroccan company called Desert-Trips. Arrangements for a desert trek grew to include tips, itineraries, and bookings for other sights in Morocco. My first day trip was to the Mzoura Prehistoric Stone Circle near Sidi el Yemeni and was very pleased to have the assistance of an tour company. Due to the hazardous sandy track off the main highway, taxi drivers do not like to venture there. I found the excursion to be most intriguing and one of my favourite sites. By some accounts, one of only thirty perfectly elliptical megalithic sites in more than four hundred found in The United Kingdom and Europe, Mzoura would benefit from proper signage and improved accessibility. Unlike Stonehenge, visitors can walk on the stones, through the stones and stand on the inner mound which contains a tomb rumoured to be of a Mauritanian King from 3000 BC. I am sure there will be a time when such up close and personal access will be prohibited. Next time I will certainly go to Tetuan’s museum to see Mzoura’s excavated artifacts. A guardian of the place tried to charge 100DH in entry fees, but accepted 30. The sandy track to the site was under construction so hopefully, upgrades to the route are being considered.
The day after visiting Mzoura, I headed southeast from Rabat to Meknes, Asrou to Errachidia, Erfoud and Merzouga toward the Sahara Desert. Again, thanks to Desert-Trips, a very comfortable room at Auberge Sahara in Hassi Labiad was booked for me, and even though I arrived at a very late hour, an evening meal was served. I was happy to have such amenities booked ahead. The following morning, I was taken to see the Gnaoua ( a singing group, descendants of freed sub-Saharan slaves brought to Morocco by caravan) at Khamlia perform. Afterwards a visit to Tifert Lake to see the flamingoes was on the agenda. The lake was magnificent with a stunning view of the Erg Chebbi Dunes in the background. We then visited the oasis, had lunch and a swim at Hotel Yasmina outside of Merzouga. The lake beside the hotel was dry, and reportedly had been so for over a month. The two-day, one-night camel trek to the Erg Chebbi Dunes was the best option for me. A camel trek is one of those adventures that is a must when visiting the desert. What better way to enjoy the surreal beauty of the shifting colours and textures of the dunes? Sleeping outside under a full moon added to the magical ambiance of the experience. The next day, I was escorted for sight-seeing tour in Rissani: the colourful souk and Kasbahs. Due to the excessive heat, I would advise visitors to be well-prepared with bottles of water, light clothing, and comfortable sandals.
Some of the many advantages of having a personalized tour was the ability to stop whenever I wished, but still enjoy the impeccable timing and knowledge of a local company. I backpacked for months in my youth and know the time and effort that can be spent on finding one’s way each day. For my first time in the Atlas Mountains, it was nice to have someone know the precise time it takes to get from sites like the Todra Gorge to Ait Ben Haddou to Dades Gorge to be able to get the best views at precise times. In the Dades Gorge, I spent two nights at Levieux Chateaux du Dades and enjoyed excellent service and affordable pricing. The more temperate climate of the Gorge provided some respite after the heat of the Sahara.
Another day trip was spent visiting Moulay Idriss and Volubilis. Again I would recommend both sites to people visiting the area. Moulay Idriss is a cluster of homes clinging to a hill that reminded me very much of towns in the Costa del Sol region of Spain. The Roman Ruins at Volubilis have a series of amazing mosaics that are wonderfully preserved. A very pushy guide at Volubilis was annoying, but soon left us in peace to enjoy the site. A good guide book purchased prior to the trip was very informative, and therefore more beneficial than the on-site guide.
In all, the trip was wonderful and getting back to the reality of daily living has proven to be a challenge!

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