Sunrise in the Sahara

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"Certainly, travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living."
Miriam Beard

We wake up to the sounds of the camels outside. Some not so pleasant sounds. I wake up before dawn easily when I have something to look forward to. This was definitely something to look forward to. Claro!

I wake up and walk outside my tent to see a huge group of camels sitting on the ground. All of which have someone to walk them. Some of them are tied together- Me, Alex, and Kezia’s camels were all tied together. I never got to asking the name of the man who walked our camels. He was so nice and helpful, especially in climbing the dune. We got on our camels and went up some of the way, but had to walk, or should I say climb, the rest. It was well worth it. Some of the people didn’t make it but I was determined. I didn’t care how out of shape I was-- this was the Sahara. It was dark when we left the tents but it was getting lighter by the second.

I sat down on top of the dune and saw miles upon miles of dunes in front of me. It was a little windy but it was so pleasant. The local kids came out again to go with us. I wonder if they do this with every group that comes?

I remember looking down at the sand when the man who walked my camel tapped my shoulder and pointed out to the horizon. Seeing the sun rise there was one of the most beautiful things I’ve ever seen in my life. There was such a contrast with the sun and the sand. The sand right under the sun looked almost black. It was so insanely beautiful. I can’t help but be mad at myself for not having the words to express this moment. It was wonderful.

After seeing the sunset we playfully jumped down the sand dunes. The man who walked my camel told me that I should see his line of work with fossils. I had heard some of the children say this to me last night but I thought nothing of it. So before getting back on our camels, he took his bag out and showed us a bunch of fossils that were polished. He was telling me how there wasn’t much work out there, and he had to rely solely on tourism and fossils to feed his family. How could I refuse that? I’m sitting here as this American student with so many opportunities and materialistic possessions, next to this man who I paid to literally walk beside a camel I was riding because it would be neat to ride a camel in the desert. And this was his work? I wonder how many tourists pass through here and he does the same thing. I bought something from him which was beautiful. He thanked me and left it at that. He was very respectful and didn’t hassle me to buy more or give him more money. I bought a nice fossil for 60 Durham, which was really only 6 Euro, or 8 dollars. And if this was his only line of work? It got me thinking at least.

We went back to the hotel and showered and had breakfast. It was delicious. There were pastries, bread, tea and coffee. They also had this corn bread tasting thing that was SO GOOD.

After breakfast they told us we were heading out into the desert more to see traditional tribal dances of the Black Village, see an oasis, and some nomadic tribes.

We drive in the vans for a while. A lot of the desert is this black rock that stretches for miles. I think it was shale. (This coming from an Earth Science major). The drivers were a lot of fun, going on un-driven paths for most of the time. We went over hills a humps and definitely got air a few times. We also did 360s. that was fun.

We reached the Black Village and went inside and sat on carpets on the ground. They didn’t say anything or introduce anything which I regret. They just came out and started dancing and singing for us. They served us some mint tea and got us up to dance. It was really fun and the music was very unique. I took a video of it. It seemed to be a touristy spot too because another group of people came in after us and sat down.

After that we were driving more in the desert, stopping at some points. It was incredible how fast water is sucked out of you there. We were all chugging water and still felt thirsty. And we were traveling my jeep—therefore literally all we were doing was sitting down.

We made a few stops to see an oasis which was cool, and there were more mud shacks and homes closer to the oasis. Its miles of this black shale and nothingness and dry ground and all of a sudden you see palm trees and streams and a whole village.

Along these stops, we came into contact with some of the local children. I’ve never been so affected in my life. They were wearing dirty clothes and had dirt on their faces. It was like what is shown on TV, just right smack in front of your face. They are personally asking you to buy their jewelry or fossils. It was really heavy to take it. A couple of us had to just walk away and cry, including myself. This was a huge wake up call, to say the least. I gave them the rest of my money, which wasn’t much, and then some of the other things I had bought along the way. I can’t even begin to describe the way they looked at you; like you were something from another planet. In a way we were. Miguel didn’t prepare us for this at all, and I’m glad for it. It wouldn’t have made such an impression. One of the students asked him how he does this every semester, and he said it affects him every time, but he’s become more immune to it. I wish at this point that I was an amazing writer to get the right idea across about how I felt about everything. I always knew this stuff existed but its different when you read about it or see it on TV, than when its right in front of you, holding out its hand, asking you to help them. Part of me wanted to go and help them, and then a part of me wanted to just ignore it. Life this difficult couldn’t possibly exist. It’s hard to imagine when I’ve come into this world with such luck and opportunity. Some of the kids did seem happy though; playing with each other and with some of us. Their parents were looking on from their houses a little ways away. This whole situation just smacked me in the face. I was completely unprepared, and had never seen anything like it. I felt helpless to. When I look back to this experience, I try to take it for what it really was. It was eye-opening. It motivated me. It made me reconsider many of the things that I hold in value in my life. Who cares about materialistic needs when you have food and a roof over your head? It made me also think about what else is out there, what I could possibly do with my life to try and make a difference in just one person’s life. It’s an immature thing to think that one person can change the world. As a child, I think many people had the misconception that they were going to change the world. I know I did. But as you get older you come to realize you can’t really do anything to make a change. You won’t make a dent in the problems that are out there. I’d like to find a happy medium of these two ways of thinking, and make a difference, be it a small one, but a difference nonetheless to people. Being a teacher would definitely be rewarding in that effect, but I think I’m going to want to do more than that.

I’m glad that I got hit so hard by this.

After driving around the desert and doing some things we go back into town and have lunch. Then we transfer back into the vans and are on our way again. Another 6 hour drive till a small town outside of Fes.

We have been playing so many road games and riddles this whole way to pass the time.

I love traveling so much. Even when it’s sitting crammed in a van in the hot desert with people who may be getting on your nerves playing stupid mindless games. If I hadn’t, then I wouldn’t have been able to experience what I have so far. I have a huge addiction to travel. In any form, I love it. The more I travel, the more I know that I need to do it more. With the good and the bad, it’s a masterpiece of emotions, sights, people, culture, food, music, and so much more.

I know that everyone on this trip believes the same too, which only adds to this experience. Nothing is going unappreciated.

Once we finally arrive at the hotel, will fill out yet another information card and check in. I’m in a room with Dorota. We go down to eat some dinner, and the owner of the hotel comes and hangs out with us. He is in a suit and tie, and very well groomed. It was like night and day; literally. This morning I was sitting in the middle of the desert talking to a man who was asking me to buy something from him so he can feed his family, and then tonight I’m chatting with another man who owns a hotel and is leisurely getting to know his guests dressed up in a suit and tie, one of many I’m assuming.

After dinner he tells us to go to his hookah bar across the street where there is traditional Moroccan music and dance.

It is so cool. The music was entirely way too loud but entertaining. It was a live band, and two belly dancers. They were so good, and it was such a unique way of singing, playing, and dancing. At one point the dancers were just swinging their hair all around in crazy circles. After this, the hotel owner walked us back to our rooms and said goodnight.

I’ve noticed that here in Morocco they kiss three times on the cheeks instead of just two.

Tomorrow we head to Fes, and are going to another market.

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Comments

[Gaby Ané]

Hi Danielle
Your dad gave me your bog address in school, and all I can say is great job kiddo!!! I enjoy reading what you have to say about your experience so far. I know the feeling of becoming addicted to traveling and sucking it all in. Keep enjoying! P.s. Know that you are welcome to come to my Spanish class whenever you wish. Buena Suerte en tus viajes y estudios!!! Adios!