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Published: February 13th 2010
For those people reading, please be aware this is our first experience of this sort of culture and Marrakech is a steep learning curve, but one that I would recommend to anybody, and we do not intend any offence to the Marrakshi people. Besides, it’s all meant in fun!
Wake up bright and early, look out window to see fantastic clear blue sky with heat of the sun already starting to warm up the air nicely. WE see first glimpse of our fantastic view….a rendered wall around a plain courtyard with some apartments opposite high up. But we are not here to waste time sat in room.
We arrive at breakfast, continental comprising pancakes, bread rolls, sweet pastries, tomatoes, olives, Madeira cake, hard boiled eggs, honey, jam, tea, coffee and orange juice…unfortunately powdered with some orange bits put in for good measure. We partake of our chosen delicacies with views across swimming pool and then head out, leaving the hotel before nine in the morning.
We strolled up Rue Mohammed et Beqal on which hotel was situated and joined Ave Mohammad V. After a gentle stroll towards the centre, with our first taste of shoe shiners and Marrakech gentlefolk
Rooftop Adventure
The view from on top of carpet shop on Friday.asking us to view their wares, we arrived outside Koutoubia Mosque with its Minaret.
• This 12th Century, 70 metre high tower is the architectural prototype for Seville’s La Giralda and Rabat’s Tour Hassan. Originally it was covered with Marrakshi pinkish plaster, but during its 1990 restoration it was decided to preserve its exposed stone appearance. When the mosque was completed in the 12th Century, 100 booksellers were clustered around its base, which is where the name Koutoubia is from, meaning ‘booksellers’. A long standing Marrakshi legend, which now appears to be fact, is that the original mosque was destroyed when it was discovered that it was not correctly aligned with Mecca. From the current minaret, the one voice of the adhan, or call to prayer, can be heard five times a day calling the faithful to salah, five daily prayers.
Neil thought it would be nice to visit the gardens but fate had other plans…
“Hello, many welcomes to Marrakech, you English?” came the voice from behind. ‘Oh no, not already’ thought Neil. “Oh hello, yes we are” said Marian. We did not catch his name, something that I regret so for the rest of the holiday
Monkey man
Oh how lovely, a monkey on my shoulder! and for this little story I named him George. He spoke very good English, self taught you know? And he just wanted to practice his English. He did not want to sell us anything…which I suppose could be considered true…and he did not want our money…directly!
George informed us he had just finished his shift at the Marrakech hotel and advised us that we should follow him if we wanted to see the real Marrakech. I tried to explain that it was our first day, we were heading in the opposite direction, and that we fully intended to see all the back streets during our weeks stay. “ah, Madame, just follow me to see the Berber weave carpets, it is there last day and if you miss them today you will not see them again. They leave for the desert today”
“oh how nice” squeaks Marian in glee. ‘Oh bugher’ thinks Neil. But George is already playing to his audience “I show you the place Madame. I want no money Madame. I am just practicing my English Madame” Monsieur is ignored!
Marian ignores all of Neil’s attempts to keep hold of their money and belongings! The route down
Monkey man 2
See no evil, hear no.... Rue el Koutoubia is not too bad, but then we turn into the narrow back streets, not quite heading to the Central Souqs, each turning George takes us down gets narrower, the walls higher, more people are noted watching us as we pass, just standing and watching. “I really don’t like this” states Neil at one particularly narrow turn off into a dinghy alley. “Its ok Madame, we are not cannibals you know” states George, leading us further in…
Yes, we know now. We are here to tell the tale. But believe me, when every instinct is screaming out that it’s time to turn round and head back, its so hard to relax and enjoy the experience.
Eventually we ended up in a large, dark building, three floors with wall to wall carpets. We were greeted by a friendly Berber, who spoke with George. George offered his farewells and departed. We noted a few men sat round tables drinking tea.
We were ‘escorted’ to the roof to enjoy the view. We climbed a ladder stair and came up on top of an aluminium roof which did not feel very walkable. We took our pictures, surprisingly turned out
Atlas Mountains
View of distant mountains from Avenue De La Menara ok considering the shaking and headed back down for the sales pitch.
The carpets were nice, but we did explain right at the start we did not want to buy one. That of course made us feel guilty as the Berber seemed genuinely hurt by the accusation that he just wanted to seel us a carpet. He informed us he wanted to educate us on the different types and styles and how they were made, we took our seats. I lost count of how many carpets we viewed. They were just pulled off randomly and laid before us. We did not hear much history. We did not get much information how they were made. We did hear what brilliant colours they were. We were even shoed one carpet that was eighty years old. I think I missed something, because it looked like it was eighty years old! Eventually, two more bewildered wanderers were brought in and sat near us. Two girls of Japanese descent, not sure if they were French? After some minutes we are asked “do you like any of these carpets”. “Yes, we like them all” we say, nearly in unison. “You do not want to buy
Bus trip
Camels as seen from the tour bus. a carpet, do you” asks the Berber. ‘At last’ thinks Neil. “Lets us show you some smaller souvenirs” and we are lead away as the two girls are left giggling away on there own, the fits of nerves showing through.
We were ‘escorted’ into the next building containing lots of jewelery, shoes, swords, leather goods, baskets, trinkets, etc etc. Our guide handed us over to the next Berber gent. After some viewing and walking around the wares, Neil looked at some slippers (shoes) but at 150 Dhiram, the price was too high. Marian decided to buy a pair of slippers (shoes). The price was 120 Dhiram. After much haggling this was agreed at 100 Dhiram. Not sale of the century, but a good start. Neil got his down to 100 Dhiram too, but the Berber assured him it was student price and Neil had his arm pinned up his back to get such a good price. Following this sale, we were allowed to leave without having to view the spices building.
We later discovered the prices we paid were more or less the price everywhere, so we can hold our heads high!
We found our way to the main
Golf course
Palmeries tour bus. square, feeling relieved. It was still early and quiet in the square, and as we crossed the square the men with the monkeys appeared next to us. Marian had one put on her shoulder, despite protests that it was not wanted. Neil was told to take a photograph, with one gentleman almost taking his camera out for him. Following this, two monkeys were placed on Neil’s shoulders and Marian instructed to take a photo. At this point, the fun part of it had turned a little menacing, but luckily this was only the first of two times in a week’s stay. Once the photo was taken, Marian was instructed to hand over money. Marian first took out some coins and the response was “no coins, no coins, notes only. You give 200 Dhirams…each” Now call us old fashioned, but we are not paying near enough 35 squid for two photos of monkeys that we did not ask for. Marian pulled out 50 Dhirams which was snatched away. Neil had tried to intervene but the other “gentleman” was keeping him occupied and was obstructing any chance of stopping the harassment. They left with the 50 Dhiram, but only because more tourists
NeilandMaz on tour
Palmeries tour bus were heading across the square and we were obviously too much trouble!
As we felt quite shook up, we headed away for the square and after a sit down to calm our nerves, we took the Marrakech Tour bus, at 130 Dhirams each for a 24 hour ticket, decent value. We sat on top deck and did full Marrakech Monumental tour which goes past lots of….hotels lol. It covers a good area of the centre and surrounding areas, including the Royal Palace, Gardens and Mosques and is a good way to get your bearings and see what there is to see, without the haggling.
We exchanged buses and also did the Marrakech Romantique tour (included in price) which travesl round the Palmeries and the golf course and big houses in that area. We were a little bit lost on the “Romantic” part but it was interesting. The bus tours took up most of the day.
Had dinner at a small eaterie near our hotel overlooking Place Abdel Moumen ben Ali. I never knew that was how you said “chicken scraps and Mcdonalds chips” in French! But it was tasty. Back to Hotel for a small bottle of Rose between two, what a full and eventful day.
Good night.
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