Marrakech, The Imperial City

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Marrakech is one of the Imperial cities of Morocco, and has a palace on the edge of the Medina, though like all Moroccan Palaces occupied by the king, you can't see the palace, just the giant gate around it. We arrived in Marrakech the night before Eid and the city was crowded. Smoke from barbecues made the air thick and my eyes blurry. It seems many people travel from the North of Morocco to Marrakech for Eid and the Medina is so packed its hard to move. We get lost and tired, and it takes us forever to find where we are going. After freaking out at each other, we find a hotel and set out for food. There is a large square in the center of the Medina, and at night, a hundred kiosk set up selling all sorts of street meat- from calamari and french fries, to sausages, tagine, shish kebab (brochettes) and sheep's head (the local specialty). The people beg you to enter, tempting you with the promise of cold soda and fresh produce. We stop and order just about everything on the menu- cold, Moroccan salad with tomato, onions and cucumber; brochettes of meat and poultry, frites, cakes, bread, thé à la menthe and we take in the sights.

We buy shishas in Marrakech. We buy four of them and I wonder where we will fit them in the car. Kouidre takes pride in coaching me in the art of negotiation, and I follow his lead. Marrakesh is the gateway to Africa for Morocco, and the city has a distinctly African feel to it, much different than Casa and Fès. It is the portal to foods from Mali, sodas, candies, clothes, and cell phones from Europe, and spices and silver.

On New Years Eve, Eid begins at sun rise. By 10 am in the morning, sheep, which we had seen filling every street, every stall and ever road way since we entered the country, are being led into the streets and by 11 am, big fires and the sound of knifes cutting horns can be heard. We find an apartment to stay in for the night and spend the morning roasting on the sunny roof of the landlord, who serves us tea and pastries. The city closes down for three days, as does most of Morocco, during Eid. few stores stay open, but while hunting for tea and mint, Ludo and I meet a man with a spice store and a thousand jars of herbs, ointments and lotions. He gives us tea and we ask him about his store. The ceiling is covered with intricate wood carvings and he tells us that his son is the artisan who makes them.

New Year's Eve bring Sidi, from Casa on a train. We smoke shisha and drink tea until 1030pm then head out to the clubs. I spend the count down at the bank machine with Antoine and Kouidre, and the way I see it, receiving money with good friends is a good way to start the year!

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