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Jimi Hendrix really has nothing to do with my experience in the lovely, lovely Essaouira, but a lot of Essaouirians(?) kept telling me that he, along with tother celebs like the Beatles and Bob Marley, hung out and made music there back in the olden days so obviously it's a big deal to them. It has been a bit of a hub for those in the arts community, with Orson Welles shooting 'Othello' there and more recently Ridley Scott shooting 'Kingdom of Heaven.' Though I was relaxed everywhere in Morocco, Essaouira was a lot more chilled out than the other places I went and there was a really happy vibe about town. I was smiling also because the sun was out, the sky was blue and my body got to feel fresh air on my skin for the first time in months.
I upped my skill set in Essaouira. Once timid and unsure of myself when I found myself in a shop as a tourist and there were no price tags, I have graduated to hard core haggler status. My rule of thumb was this - ask the price and divide by three for the price you'll pay and halve
Essaouira Main Street
The peaceful side. Once you pass through the gate the retail chaos begins.that as your starting price. It sounds harsh, and maybe it was, but I figure if it's too low they'll say no and won't chase me as I walk away. Sometimes I wanted something too much to bother with the back and forth. Sometimes I remembered what ten dirham is in pounds and realised I was spending too much time on money that didn't mean too much to me but might to them. Sometimes I realised my mental arithmetic was up the creek and I was had anyway. I would always know when I'd paid too much because they started throwing things in for free at the end. Essaouira was the only place where my clothing was accepted as legal tender by the store owners. One guy from the Sahara who worked half the year in Essaouira was desperate to get his hands on my stinky old striped Explorer socks! The bargaining was social and great fun. I spend an hour and a half with a lovely jewellery trader named, as he told me all first born sons there traditionally are, Mohammed. Over that time I got taken for a ride on one necklace and scored bargains for three sets
of earrings, a ring and a second necklace. In return I got some great conversation, instruction on jewellery making, introductions to Mohammed's two brothers, shown photos of the rest of the family and was given about a litre of mint tea.
One thing that stands out in my mind about Essaouira was listening to lots of music - it's apparently a bit of a centre for the Moroccan music scene. Every year Essaouira holds a massive music festival, celebrating the gnawa style which originates from the region. We saw a gnawa performance up close at dinner one night and I was really impressed with the guy playing the gimbri - his voice was beautiful and he had to play strings like a guitar but also beat on the instrument skin like a drum.
Essaouira was a laid back and relaxing place. Everywhere I went in Morocco people were very friendly, but Essaouira it was a step up again. It was a very pretty place as well. The sun was out. There were hundreds of shops selling tagines, ceramics and jewellery. Along the seafront men pleaded with us to select their restaurant for our seafood fill that day. Walking
down the deserted and very narrow lanes, cool in the shadows of the high buildings and walls was a very peaceful time. I loved the music. I loved the tea. I loved the chats.
Ah, Essaouira... one of those places I would LOVE to go back to but due to the distance from where I will probably end up living I'm not sure I will. It's a bit sad to think it's out there right now and I'm not.
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Peter
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Hagglin'
I just bought a Kilim (woven carpet) in Meknes and I was worried that despite the "catastrophic" deal I recieved, I got taken. I feel better having read your blog. Thanks for the good info. I'd also like to hit Essaouira now. Peace of cake, P