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Published: February 8th 2024
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I've settled into the daily routine of rise, cycle, eat, arrive, sleep. It's a lovely simplistic side-step from reality for a while.
After leaving Casablanca I cycled first to El Jadida and then on southwards to Ouiladia, Souira Kidema and on to Sidi Kaouki, Imsouane, Agadir, Tiznit, Sidi Ifni and Guellmim.
Along the way I've seen plenty of wildlife, from chipmonk like mammals along the cliffs, maybe they were chipmonks, to tortoises, slowly and safely crossing the road. And of course all the brilliant birdlife.
As I get further south, the landscape becomes drier, and drier. There is no longer dew on the tent in the morning when I camp. Not that it's all camping. About half my nights have been spent in lovely little hotels and pensions.
Just because I have been sticking to the coastal region, doesn't mean I have escaped the need to put my head down and fight my way up some decent climbs. The Atlas Mounatins sweep down to the sea north of Agadir. There's no avoiding them.
The most difficult climb was the 4km rising from near sea level at Imosane to over 300m. I looked suitably bedraggled by the
time I got to the view point and asked a souvenir seller to take a photo for me.
The towns and villages north of Agadir are quite busy with campervans and surfers, and there are a few cycle tourists around. Always nice to stop for a chat.
I've meet several German cyclists, solo and in couples, Dutch cyclists, a French couple travelling on a tandem and I had a lovely chat with Nick and Jean at the top of the long climb at Imzi.
In Agadir I considered taking a rest day. My legs were still feeling the burn after the climbing of the previous couple of days. However, it was cool and cloudy first thing, so I decided to take advantage of it.
The route to Tiznit was nice and level, except for a couple of gentle climbs as I approached Tiznit. The Atlas Mountains sending a low finger of ridges towards the coast. A kind tailwind also helped.
The bird list continues to grow. In one day I added three species to my Morocco list for this trip, Spanish sparrow, desert wheatear (a lifer for me), and a house bunting that put in
a very quick appearance as I took an evening stroll around Tiznit.
Tiznit has a very calm atmosphere compared to the chaotic appearance of other places. A nice clean town. The municipal campsite was full, not even room for a tiny tent and a friendly bike. Fortunately there was a nice wee hotel nearby.
During my stroll, to exercise different muscles a bit, I wandered into the park. A cat in a tree was drawing a lot of attention from alarmed birds. It was kinda reminiscent of the very first sentence I learned in French at secondary school. "Le singe est dans l'arbre." I knew it would come in useful someday.
There was quite a lot of climbing between Tiznit and Sifi Ifni, but the little range of hills was very scenic, and the coastal views magnificent.
A great day of birding too. It started within the first 5km of Tiznit. For 30 minutes dozens of kites soared by low overhead. Black kites heading north.
Then as I stopped to watch some nearby Moussier's redstarts, another addition to the trip list arrived, hoopoe.
I took my lunchbreak in the shade of an empty building.
A buzzard was circling nearby. I'm glad I took a few photos now, as I was able to narrow it down to long-legged buzzard, another lifer.
(I'm lucky I can get a second opinion on my IDs from a friend at home, otherwise I'd still be wondering is it or is it not?)
It really was a raptor day as I also added hen harrier and peregrine to the list. Black wheatear was the last addition of the day.
Sidi Ifni is a busy place. Must be hundreds of campervans in the various campsites. Lovely beach. Also a very hilly town.
I had another day in the hills from Sidi Ifni to Guelmim. The road climbed to 600m via some long, steady climbs, which I much prefer to short steep ones.
I came across several interesting mixed flocks of birds feeding along the way, including a few additions to the trip list.
I finally got a decent photo of a black wheatear, which haad evaded me for a couple of days. This one landed in a bush right in front of me when I had already stopped, camera in hand. It then posed
for a minute or so before flying off.
I saw several small mammals on the climbs, but they scampered off before I was anywhere near them. Then at the top of the last big climb there was one that didn't seem to notice me. Feeding on among the rocks just above it was a blue rock thrush.
I really enjoyed the long downhill towards Guelmim, which is in a plain surrounded by hills. Despite the favourable gradient, I still made slow progress as there were several interesting flocks of birds on the way. Dozens of Moussier's redstart, another black kite and a selection of wheatears, including another striking desert wheatear and another lifer, white-crowned wheatear.
I'm looking forward to seeing the landscape south of Guelmim. It feels like the real adventure starts from here.
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