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Published: July 22nd 2010
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After my exploration of the southern running Talaa Seghira in the Medina the previous day, I thought it best to try the main northern passage, the Talaa Keriba. To begin with this route seemed much more food orientated, the street being lined with meat in many forms including cow's legs dangling from vendor's stores, many live chickens clucking away and the odd rabbit. The Medersa el-Attrariane offered brief respite from the Medina madness, as well as allowing for the gratuitous use of close up photography focusing on the wonderfully detailed architecture.
Having previously politely declined shop vendor's rather forceful suggestions that I come to look at their wares, I though it was time to see what they had on offer. This turned out to be a particularly terrible idea, especially in the case of the carpet shop I went in. I had no intention (or luggage space, or spare money) of buying anything in the store, but as I found in Marrakech, 'no' is not a word Moroccan market salesman seem to pay any attention to. He was particularly mortified when I left without purchasing a thing. I found the coyness of the salesmen I encountered particularly entertaining. When enquiring
of an item's price, it's very difficult to get a figure, the question is usually answered by 'Bon prix! Bon prix!', until finally he decides how much he's trying to rip you off by.
Last full day in Fes After slipping back to the Ville Nouvelle to watch England's crushing World Cup defeat at the hands of Germany I headed back into the Medina to sample Cafe Clock's delicious camel burger, and enjoy the traditional Moroccan musicians that had been brought along to entertain the patrons.
My last day in Morocco started of with my now ritual of croissant and mint tea, followed by a walk to the medina. Once there I located the Medersa Bou Inania. Much larger than the Medersa I had visited the previous day, but sharing the same exquisite detailing.
Much of the afternoon had been consigned to escaping the scorching afternoon heat in my hotel room, it was now much hotter than it had been at any point in Marrakech. I left the Ville Nouvelle for the Medina much later, in the still intense late afternoon heat. After bartering with a taxi driver I was dropped at the Borj Nord, a
fabulous lookout point from which a stunning Panorama of Fes could be seen. The mosques and medersas, mostly obscured at ground level by the tight and winding streets, could now be seen in all their grandeur, with the sun glinting off the deep green roof tiles. Sprouts of black smoke marked the location of Fez's tanneries, and the arid wastes beyond the city could be seen in the distance. It was a great experience and I'd recommend it as a must see to anyone visiting Fes.
Walking back down to the medina, I had my last Moroccan dinner at The Kasbah, just around the corner from Thami's. The food was a little disappointing, but it was worth it for the roof terrace with great views across the medina.
After spending some more time in the Baghdaji Square, I headed out of the Medina and back to the Ville Nouvelle for what would be the last time.
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