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Published: December 27th 2023
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Terjit
Sunrise over Terit valley, my camp is just below Nothing! And everything. Read on if you are curious. If not, also read on. Why not, after all. Reading is good for you. So, to start. An oasis. Terjit. It's in the north of Mauritania. Wonderful place. Quiet, peaceful (those two go together to be honest), green-ish... I mean, it's not like the Amazon transplanted in the desert of course, but it's what one expects. A few date trees, a little stream, a small village that lives of the water flowing out of the cliffs. For me, it was a place to pause for a few days. To not sit in cramped minibuses, or wait at dusty agencies for hours on end for a pick-up to fill up, to not plan my next day of travelling. I simply woke up in my tent, watched the sunrise over the valley, had a leisurely breakfast and coffee and relaxed. Sure, I hiked to the source of the oasis, a 10 minute walk, where water trickles out of the walls of the rock face. It looks like so little, but then you see how much if feeds, and you realise, water trickling 24/7 out of a ridge, even if it's not a shower, it
Terjit
Towards the source of the spring adds up. It's continuous. Further up, you climb out of the valley and into the blazing sun. Better to stay in the shade! But the views were good. And I was alone!
In Terjit, there was not only a trickle of water feeding the valley, but also a trickle of tourists. Not too many, just a few. Enough to have a talk in the evening during a shared meal. And on the last evening, two young women arrived, an American and a German, Jackie and Cosima. Friends. We talked. They had arranged a car and a driver for the next few days. They were going in the same direction. They invited me. I said no. Then I changed my mind. Why not? And so, after Terjit, I travelled in luxury. Our own pick-up and driver, being able to do things I wouldn't be able to do with public transport. And nice company to boot. It wasn't that much more expensive either. They had made a good deal. And there was more. A plan for the future that I had made, but hadn't actually researched well. Without them... Well, it would have been slightly more uncomfortable, or miserable. But that's
Terjit
There were some spots to drink tea or picnic, but nobody around for further down the line.
First came Oudane, via an alternative route, taking in not only great scenery, but also some rock paintings. Oudane is on the old Trans-Saharan trade route, an ancient stop-over. There is a new town and an old crumbling town. Some people still live in the old crumbling part, but most have moved. We arrived at sunset, it was a perfect time to be among the rubble. As the old mosque called the faithful to prayer, we watched the skies turn purple over the ruins of a bygone time.
The next day we were off again. The girls had little time, and to be honest, my time was also running out. So on we went, to Chinguetti, through the desert. There is the normal road, and the desert road. And when I mean desert road, I mean, you drive through the dunes. Via an oasis. A proper one, like with a little pond surrounded by dunes, with some palm fronds. You now, the cliché oasis. Didn't know they existed. Now I've been to one.
It was a thoroughly enjoyable ride. Our driver had a blast as well. Ibrahim, as was his name, was
Terjit
Source cool and suave, spoke hardly any French, nor English, only the Arabic dialect of the region, but it didn't matter. We tried Google translate, but it didn't understand his dialect, it gave some very interesting answers though. Things like, 'The three legged goat has eyes in his back.'
We arrived in Chinguetti around sunset. Again. Ibrahim drove us right up to the top of some dunes to watch a beautiful sunset over the desert. Chinguetti is known for its libraries. Don't think of it as a big building with books. These are different. Chinguetti, like Oudane was on the ancient caravan routes, but unlike Oudane, Chinguitti was on the pilgrim route to Mekka too, and over time, it became a centre of Islamic religion and scholarship in it's own right, and according to some it was the 7th most holy city in Islam. The books all those scholars and students left behind, are carefully curated by a handful of families.
Most of the old town is slowly being devoured by the desert, and it wouldn't be the first time. The first Chinguetti disappeared long ago, the second one, the one of scholarship and learning, is waiting its turn,
Terjit
And above the oasis, with a silly hat the third... that's where the hotels are. But the libraries are still in the old town, the one that will, or will not be swallowed up like its predecessor. And for a little bit of money, you can enter one of the 5 'libraries' that are left, and the care-taker will show you a few choice pieces of the extensive collection, and tell you a bit of their history. I find it amazing, that something so precious is only kept up by the tenacity of a few families, who feel a solemn duty to do so, without much help from the government or UNESCO for that matter (even though it is a UNESCO heritage sight). Respect!
And then it was time for the future to start. The future I was so badly prepared for. The future of Mad Max. But Mad Max knew what he was doing. I only half knew what I was doing. Mauritania, has one train line. It is an iron ore line, running from Zouérat to Nouadibhou on the coast, it runs along the border of Western Sahara. The iron-ore train is one of the longest in the world, if not the longest. The trains
Terjit
Further up still can get as long as 2 miles. At the end is one passenger carriage. But Mad Max doesn't ride passenger carriage, he rides on the iron-ore. Free of charge. And full of the dust that comes from the ground up iron ore. Mad Max would know you need to come equipped for such an adventure. At least with a good sleeping bag, for the cold nights. And, apparently, ski-goggles, to protect the eyes from the iron ore dust. But I am no Mad Max. I had no sleeping bag, and no ski-goggles. I had flimsy sunglasses. I did have a Covid-mask though! Luckily, the girls were much better prepared, and not only that, through their contact in Nouakchott, they managed to procure for me a good sleeping bag and ski-goggles too! To be picked up on the way to the train!
If I would have been alone, I would probably have had to improvise. I was thinking about duct-taping my sunglasses around my head, and perhaps burying myself under some iron ore to keep warm. But this was better. Plus I had company on the trip. The train doesn't run on any schedule. I comes when it comes. Basically
Terjit
A plateau beyond the oasis once the wagons have been loaded. And then you hop on, during the time it takes to join the waiting passenger carriage to the iron-ore train. You have about 10 minutes to get your ass and your gear up on the wagon. Pack everything you are not going to use in bin-liners, because you come off this train absolutely filthy! But it is one hell of a ride. I didn't sleep a wink, however the girls did. I did see a beautiful starry sky, despite the flying iron ore particles, and I a very hazy sunrise, due to a dust storm. It was, in fact, very Mad Max like. Would I do it again? No way in hell!! But, hey, when do you get to do something like this? Ever? And how long before they stop tourists from Mad Maxing their way to the coast? I'm glad I did it, once was enough. I'll leave the sequels to Mel Gibson.
A good shower (or three), and I was as good as new. Cosima, and Jackie, left to Senegal. Always in a hurry those two. I am grateful for their company and their goggles and sleeping bag. I have returned
Terjit
Sunset home for Christmas. From the desert to the rain. Two worlds, one planet. Merry Christmas!
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Home and Away
Bob Carlsen
And a Merry Christmas to you!
And a happy new year full of adventurous travels.