Drumming in Bamako, Mali

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It's important for me to praise the master drummers who taught me so generously in Bamako at the Djembe Hotel, and to tell aspiring djembe players in America about the value of going to Mali and learning from masters like Sega Cisse and Matche Traore.
It's hard to put into words how grateful I am to the drummers I played with and learned from in Mali. I got to have an excellent first time experience in playing djembe in its natural environment with the help of Jeremy Chevrier at the Djembe hotel--he's connected to some of the best drummers in Bamako, but what made the experience so good is the human connection I had with these drummers. Not only did they teach me from their hearts, but they became my friends. I will never forget these masters who I can only hope to sound like--their skills are astounding--and I can never forget them as friends who made Africa come alive for me. I was able to record some of their music and will continue to unpack the memories. I hope to return and see Sega, Matche, Benge, and Baissa again. Their genuineness is something to always remember. Sometimes it seems that innocence and real quality is missing from people in America. The teachers that come to the djembe hotel for the tourists are not only great players, they're kind and good people, which is perhaps the most important thing in giving djembe music its good feeling.

I have had classes with some of the greatest and flashiest djembe players in the world, like Mamady Keita and Bolokada Conde (also very kind drummers!), and mostly drummers from Guinea, and I admit I wondered if I should be going to Guinea to learn drumming like many of my friends from California. But Mali was perfect for me and the learning was intimate. At the djembe hotel, travelerscan organize their own drumming experience. It's not a camp, but you can be fully immersed in classes and learning if you choose to be. The classes are excellent--I took Sega's two hour class in the morning and Matche's two hour class in the afternoon, and usually played at night with drummers to absorb what we learned. From Sega, who is 73 years old, one learns the deep traditional djembe solos for Bamana rhythms, and his sense of humor and play is contagious and fun. From Matche, one learns more modern Mali beats and techniques from one of the most unique and fastest players on the planet. We went to Weddings and other ceremonies to see the drumming applied in its natural settings with dancing and celebration. We also went to Sega's village and watched traditional drumming and dancing. These experiences, and getting to know the drummers on a personal level, make drumming in Mali amazing. If you want to have a safe, rewarding and mesmerizing experience in African drumming, you should plan to visit the Jeremy and Tewa Chevrier's Djembe Hotel in Bamako. See more information at rootsyrecords.com. I took the road to Mali and that made all the difference. Next time we just have to stay longer! To my teachers in Bamako, much thanks and praise! Bon Sante! Bien Dormi! N-BA! Terrositula! Aniche!

P.S. For all those concerned, Kara and I have made it back home, and she is recuperating well from her illness. We're trying to be gentle with ourselves, as America seems like a foreign country suddenly with way too much stuff. We both struggle with culture shock thrown back into our jobs and the fact that here people have so much and there so little. But like Jeremy told me, Malians may be missing material wealth but have a lot of social wealth. It's obvious here that America controls a lot of material wealth in the world and huge resources. It's sad that the disparity between wealth and poverty is so glaring in the world. But also true that money does not buy happiness. As Jeremy said, he left behind many American problems when he moved to Bamako, but then inherited Mali problems. He says he's happier in Africa. One of his main points is that Americans have a lot to learn from Africans and Africans have a lot to learn from Americans. It seems impossible to change whole countries, but living in another culture and experiencing its riches, especially drumming at the Djembe Hotel!, is priceless.

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Photos

Sega and Matche
Masters Young and Old

Trois de Mali
Matche, Baissa, Benge fireworks

Young Djembefola and Tubabus
Baissa, Kevin and Kara

Good times NYE 2007-08
Matche, Jegewara, Benge