“Ou est la lemur, monsieur?” “First we view the plants as they do not move”, Laurie, with his good honest bloke’s name, tells us in a thick Malagasy accent. This local guide has lived in Ranomafana all his life, grown up in the bush and a lemur whisperer of sorts like his side kick Tahi Starting out yet again at the fresh hour of 6am, leaving by 7am, we were taken 10km up the hill to the reserve entrance. Here, a massive female pray mantis posed on a bright leaf, no doubt about to devour her male mate in gratitude for his role. The scenery was dense rainforest, and the humidity was as thick as Laurie’s accent First came the plants, the diabetes cure, the geckos and the constant calls in the forest of the much
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