MADAGASCAR

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This was our first visit to Madagascar. Our port of call was the island of Nosy Be. Because the perfume essence of the ylang-ylang tree is produced here for export primarily to France this is known as the Perfumed Isle. If you wear Chanel No. 5 you know ylang-ylang.

The main reason for docking here is to see the black lemurs on the nearby island of Nosy Komba. We took a speed boat out to the island on a beautiful, sunny day. We made a wet landing at the village of Ampangorina. As we approached the island I saw clothes lines all along the beach filled with what I thought was drying laundry. As we went ashore I realized the laundry was actually handmade table cloths. On this small island there is no electricity, no running water or plumbing. But they manage to create a wide array of handicrafts and grow much of their own food and support a small eco-tourist industry based around the unique plants and animals found on this island.

Jimmy guided a small group of us up the hillside into the jungle to meet up with the lemurs. They are the cutest primates with soft fur, long tails and large eyes. They looked like they were designed by Walter Keene (or his wife). They are not shy and all that is needed is a banana and one of the animals will be on your shoulder and grabbing your hand with its velvety paws. I could watch them for hours as they scampered up and down the trees looking for handouts.

We also came across a beautiful green chameleon, small and large tortoises and a big boa constrictor. The boa wasn’t nearly as appealing to me as the lemurs.

On the way back through the village many of the kids had formed into small dancing groups and were making music by drumming on empty plastic containers.

It was real hot and humid in the jungle so as soon as we got back down to the shore we went into the water to cool off. But we beat a hasty retreat when we saw a ton of jellyfish. Our guide told us the jellyfish always show up at this time of year.

When we got back to Nosy Be we wanted to go into town. The name of the town is Hell Ville, named after Admiral de Hell. So we got a van and went to Hell and back. We were surprised at the number of street walkers so openly soliciting in this highly religious country.

Our second stop in Madagascar was in Mahajanga. A recent cyclone had destroyed the tender dock so it took the crew quite a while to find a suitable place to land us passengers. We took the shuttle into town and met a friendly young lady who was part of the welcoming committee. We told her that we wanted to go to a local market, so she went with us and helped us bargain for some curios. Madagascar is one of the poorest countries in the world. They are hoping to further develop their tourist trade to bring much needed income and jobs to their people. With their beautiful beaches, endemic wildlife and unique flora they should be successful. Especially once they get their political house in order.

After a few sea days we’ll begin one week of travel through the beautiful country of South Africa.

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Photos

OCEAN DHOW IN MADAGASCAR
We first saw these innovative boats on the Nile

JIMMY
Our faithful guide to Lemur Island

NOSY KOMBA ISLAND
Handmade tablecloths for sale

LITTLE GIRL
Selling beads and fruit

KIDS DANCING
Everywhere we went the children danced to their own music

MAIZE POUNDING
Maize is the staple of their diet

WOMEN WASHING CLOTHES
This is the island laundry

SUSAN'S NEW FRIEND
A banana does it every time

CHAMELEON
A beautiful green/red lizard

CANOE SALES
They came alongside the ship with their wares

PURSES FOR SALE
Mahajanga market

MARKET LADIES
Francoise (right) escorted us to a better market

BAOBAB TREES
Their trunks are filled with water

Comments

[Stephanie]

Lemurs & Such
Oh how I've always wanted to go to Madagascar! Your description and pictures provide only further encouragement. Jack and I are enjoying Istanbul as I write this to you ... thanks for the excellent tips. xo, steph

[Elizabeth Moya]

I first visited madagascar in the early 90's 0n a Holland America world cruise, and glad to see that they still have the tablecloths hanging on a clothes line-I bought one from a cute lady with her face painted with white dots-
what an adventure you're having!!!

[Dennie]

Madagascar
One place I've always wanted to visit but haven't yet...wish I was cruising with you this year! But at least I can read your excellent blog post and share the experience thru them! )

[Martina]

Madagascar tips?
Hello, I would like to ask you for tips in regards what tour operator to use when travelling to Madagascar and what countries I can visit on my way there? I have read that it is best to travel via Paris and fly to Mauritius and from there continue travelling to Madagascar? This way I can visit both countries. Or does anybody have other tips what countries to visit on my way there? Also, are you aware of any tour operator which is run locally in Madagascar? I have looked at UK Explorer etc but I think I would prefer a private tour. So far I have found http://www.madagascarwildlifetours.com/ - does anybody have any experience with them? And does anybody have any tips about places in Madagascar other than promoted by the 'typical' travel agencies? So far, I have decided to go the capital, visit several parks to see lemurs, go canoeing and visit several beaches. I would, however, also like to see more of the culture - such as visiting local villages - does anybody have any tips where to go please to get the real experience?