I continue south from Fianar through another landscape of rice paddies and terraces, the former reflecting the fleecy clouds in the blue sky above. Ambalavao is only a short distance away and soon I'm settled into the most expensive room yet of my stay in Madagascar ($15), though it's arguably the most comfortable also. Inevitably my arrival pings on the radar of the resident English-speaking guide, but he respects my statement that I'm not looking to take a tour, and is happy to dispense information without expecting anything in return. Ambalavao is a small town of narrow streets, filled with the colonial architecture of balconies and shuttered windows. I've already seen that Madagascar has a good selection of arts and crafts of varying degrees of traditional authenticity, and one of the most famous is made in
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