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Published: April 17th 2006
Road To Samburu
Crossing the equator in Kenya, Travis and I set off to SamburuRoad To Samburu
For most of my adult life I have dreamed of being in Africa. As an avid photographer I have dreamed of capturing the images of a part of the world that has been visted by few. And so my dream has come true, but has left me with more than just photo images. It has left me with a deep understanding of how the reality of poverty can hit you between the eyes. No longer can I sit idle in the comfort of my home in America knowing of what is going on in some of the deepest parts of the Kenyan north country.
Travis Mitchell, my good friend who was with me in Thailand to build the playground on Kho Ko Khao island, has once again traveled across the globe to meet me and to become face-to-face with a culture we've only visited through the pages of National Geographic. Our destination: Kenya.
We had spent the first week in and around Nairobi, working with our team from Airline Ambassadors International, an NGO from the US providing humanitarian aide to one of the many local orphanages. This effort was to provide aid to the Caroline
On Our Way
One moment to take my eyes off the potholes for a photo op. Mungai Children's Home in Wangige, Kenya. (Will have another blog for this part of our journey). But after the others had to return home to their jobs and families, Travis and I wanted to do more. One evening while having dinner at the most controversial restaurant in Kenya ("Carnivores", where they serve camel, crocodile among other animals you would think would be protected...I ate vegetarian that night) we spoke of doing something more adventurous and meaningful at the same time. I suggested we rent a Land Cruiser, fill it with food and head north to feed the hungry. And so our journey began.
Our hosts here in Nairobi, Francis and Joyce Njuguna, offered us some advice and so we agreed we would venture into the Samburu region 300km north of Nairobi. Now, lets get things straight here. I'm used to traveling on Interstate Highway 5 in California. Wide lanes, proper signage and an abundance of eateries and fueling stations along the way. But this trip was to be different. 300 kilometers of Kenyan outback. I think this road has more potholes than there are in all of the United States. It is cruicial to keep so focused on the
Can You Say Ooooops!
This is why we got a Land Crusier Elite road that one moment of complacency and you find yourself with a broken axle and no one around for miles to help you. The Land Cruiser was constantly rattling and every so often the bump would lift you out of your seat and slam your head into the roof. Bring lots of aspirin...and water.
Along with us are two young women, Namayan and Meseret. Namayan is from the region we are heading to and has asked to come along so she can visit her family she has not seen in some time. The other woman, Meseret, is from Ethiopia and living in Nairobi. With the help of Francis and Joyce taking us to a Nairobi supermarket, we loaded up the vehicle with hundreds of pounds of food: maize flour, sugar, salt, porridge, cooking fat and infant porridge, biscuits, crackers, water and treats for the children. We had more space in the vehicle for more, but were concerned about the weight and the harsh road that lies ahead. Early in the morning we set off on our journey.
So were are we going? To Maralal, a small community inhabited by a tribe called the Samburu. (Please Google "Samburu" if
In Big Trouble
Stuck with a load of food in a hungry region. Not the best time to dump the truck into the ditch you wish to learn more about this tribe and their culture). The people in this area of Kenya have endured eight months of drought and as a result have lost their livestock and the ability to irrigate their crops. Foraging on whatever they can and doing all means possible to keep their livestock alive. The main and usual source of food, as put to me by Lempei, are milk, blood and meat. And when the cow dies of starvation, all three elements of their food source is gone.
The ride into the area took us nearly seven hours across and through some of the most incredible scenery. Herds of zebras running across the dirt road in front of us while young shepherds tending their livestock in the middle of the vast and empty Kenyan norhtcountry. We would stop occasionally to relieve ourselves or just take a break from the spinal tapping the rough ride was giving us. A quick check of the vehicles integrity and we'd jump in an ride off again. If we drove slow it would have taking over 10 hours, so its wise to drive fast and get to our destination before darkness turns the region
Getting Help Reloading
We get help from locals to reload the truck after they pushed us out. into an unsafe place to be. Stuck in this country with water and food could spark interest from the bandits that look for easy prey. And they can be unforgiving when they want something from you. Your watch, food, shoes, toilet paper, tires and anything else they desire. In fact, its been known that they have stripped people naked and left them there with nothing, not even their passports. So, we drove fast. Very fast.
Once in Maralal, we were greeted by Jacob, a local teacher and brother of Namayan, and thier cousin, Lempei, whom will be our guide and armed guard. His qualifications are impressive, as he was once part of the security detail for the Kenyan president and is skilled in elite combat training. But even that doesn't compare to his life skills as a Samburu warrior. We asked him to accompany us on the remainder of the journey as the safety factor begins to be more pronounced the further we get closer to the Somali region.
At one point in Maralal we try to cross a deep erosion ditch and get the Land Cruiser stuck. The front right tire is sticking 3 feet off the
Visitng Jacob's Family
We have fun taking digital photos and letting them see the image on the screen. ground and the rear left is buried in the ditch. With so much food on board preventing us from moving any further, we are forced to remove all the food to allow the vehicle to lift itself up a bit. The locals were quite helpful and after some bantering between each other as to the best way to solve the problem (without damaging the vehicle) we decided to recruit them to push us out while I grinded the gears in four-wheel-drive. Lempei had to stand guard over the food so it would not disappear and to prevent a frenzy over its vulnerability while sitting outside stacked in a hungry village. With the grunts from the mule team and the smell of the clutch burning up in the transmission, we finally get the LC out of the ditch and on safe ground. I think it was the most interesting thing to happen to Maralal in some time, as they began to yell in celebration, dancing and screaming. The job was done successfully and of course...they wanted compensation. I give Lempei 1,000 Ksh to offer them. He speaks their language and is respected in the community. I felt that it was safer
World Champion
Travis used to be head cheerleader at his high school, now he's teaching kids to jump rope in their house in Kenya. (joking about the cheer thing) for him to deal with the payment. If I had tried, it could have turned ugly. Once one of the men had the money in his hand, he ran down the dirt road away from the others. The rest of them ran after him, some even falling down trying to get so much speed to catch him. Thinking I had caused a bad situation, Lempei told me that everything is okay and that they are happy and will share the money. We then return the food to the vehicle and continue to Jacob's house.
Jacob and Namayan have invited us into their mother's home to meet their family. We gave to them some small gifts and donated a badminton set and other toys to the children at Jacob's school They have no playground or any other activity items to enjoy during school days. The jump-ropes came in handy and the kids in the house were taught by jump rope expert, Travis Mitchell, two-time world champion while making a peanut butter and jelly sandwich and jump roping simultaneously. (a joke). Afterwards we head to the Yare Lodge to get some needed rest.
Travis and I get up the next
Yare Lodge near Maralal
Our bungalow in Maralal. Cost was $18. Recommended over the Safari Lodge ($300) day knowing that today was to be why we came here. Lempei was such a great help in allowing us to reach the villages we wanted to donate the food to. We asked to visit the people that needed it the most within a certain distance from Maralal. If we had gone even further north, it would not have been wise as the danger is quite real. Most of the time they advise you travel in convoys or with UN personnel. We were alone on this trip and knew that we had our limits if we wanted to get home safely, let alone alive. Later we would pass through a highly dangerous area that has been know for its bandits. Lempei will be with us for that part of the journey.
In late morning we reached the communities living in the mountains. We were greeted by women walking to town with small jugs of goats milk they will sell or trade for other staples they can not grow. Lempei helps us coordinate the process and he's asked that the community mothers come to gather so we can get a good count of familes. It won't matter how many are
Packed With Food
Little room to sit for the girls that came with us. in each family, as each family will get the same amount of donated food regardless. We separated the items into a 'group' of foods. Therefore each family would receive 2kg maize flour, 1kg sugar, 1kg porridge, half kg of salt, cooking fat and infant porridge for those whom are still breastfeeding. The distribution is simple and calm. I feared they would grab, but was reassured by Lempei that they are respectul of each other and share. They understand the importance of reliance being the means to survival. Travis and I feel we aren't providing enough, but have to realize that we are just two guys, not a huge NGO. We can offer what we can, as any amount is greatly appreciated. After we distribute the food, they offer us a prayer and thanks, and we depart back to Maralal. But not until we have to go to the mechanic to get the front end fixed. Its late, and we have another seven hours to drive before our next destination, Archer's Post, via the badlands. Lempei loads his elephant gun. But does not intend to use it on elephants.
PLEASE WAIT FOR PART TWO OF THIS JOURNEY. IT GETS EVEN
Our New Friends
From left to right: Me, Edie (from Ethiopia), Elena, Travis, Jacob and Lempei. BETTER!
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Athena
non-member comment
Amazing
I can't believe all the wonderful things you are doing! In case I ever forget to tell you, you're an amazing human being! We miss you here!!!!! Love you, Athena p.s. your friend is a hottie...a comment on behalf of my single friends:)