tamale, techima, Nkoranza, Boabang and back in a weekend


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Africa » Ghana » Northern » Tamale
September 25th 2006
Published: September 25th 2006
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Sue Here!!
Hi folks we have just returned from yet another fantastic mini adventure.
I have to just say that the best laid plans and all that.......
Anyway we set off from tamale bright and early on Friday morning, 22nd September to head into the bus station, I am talking early, we left the house at 0400. We arrived to the usual chaos and delight. the bus we were bound for was already jajmpacked full but they were attempting to load even more people we decided we did not wish to join that particular bus. We worried for just a fraction then a delightful gentleman assessed our need and took us to find the right trotro place and helped us haggle the right price. He wanted nothing more than thanks and we were very pleased to give him that. the seating on the trotro while slightly cramped was infinitely better that what we would have faced on the STC bus. Downside was that we then had to wait for the tro tro to fill but this was accomplished by 0615 and we were off. (for those who are wondering what the heck I am talking about a tro tro is llike a van converted to a minibus to sit as many people as possible but at least it does not exceed the number of seats!!)
Although slightly cramped we were glad to be on our way and it wasnt too hot just yet. About an hour and a half out of Tamale we smelt a smell that we knew would mean trouble.... the burning rubber sdort of smell. there was no big drama, the bus stopped, everyone got off, inspected the offending tyre, muttered a few words and then found semi-comfortable places to sit, on the roadside of course. The JPs shrugged their shouilders and joined the groups sitting around. Nothing appeared to happen but we know it is best to just wait and see. One of the ghanaians took pity on us and came to explain that the driver had made a call and a new trotro was on the way. a little disconcerting when we thought it would be coming all the way from Tamale but within half an hour we were in a new tro tro and on our way again. I am delighted to say that the JPs fell on their feet and the trip was relative luxury with us not having to have the seat in the aisle occupired!! what joy.
the scenery was so fascinating and so different from what we expected. excuse me if I have already gushed about this before but I will do it again anyway.. The countryside is so lush and green it is hard to imagine any hardship as every fruit you could want is available, fantastic bananas scrumtious pineapples, delicious oranges, juicy pawpaw. obviously we are incredibly privileged amd have the means to buy all this fantastic fruit but the ghanaians are on the whole a poor and incredibly hardworking people and can not always feed their families the best food. We eat so much carbohydrate that any hope I had of losing weight has disappeared.... but the Ghanaians also eat loads of carbs amd not much nutrition, I see the results of this every day at the hospital where i am helping out.
Anyway we really appreciate our position here and enjoy all our interactions every day.
Back to the adventure... once we changed trotros the trip felw by and before we knew it we had arrived in Techiman. It looked a lot less well off than Tamale but we did not have long to view before we were whisked into a taxi and were heading towards Nkoranza and the place we would be staying, Handinhand. A centre for physically and mentally handicapped children that is set in the grounds of the hospital and makes money for the children
by letting out little huts to visitors. That sounds very rustic and indeed it is but it is so much more than that. The huts are built in the style of traditional huts but have the added advantage of running water, a shower and electricity (of course not always guaranteed!!)
Now the shower and toilet sound terrific and of course they are but the slightly disconcerting fact is that they are open to the elements. I have to say there is something wonderful about having a shower outside but toileting is a little more disconcerting....
We had all our meals at the hndinhand centre and they were fantastic. We had the obligatory spaghetti, but there comes a tale with that,,,we arrived at the centre at 1200ish tired and very hungry. the caretaker 'Charity' was not there but we were shown to our rooms and asked if we wanted food. we all jumped down her throat saying yes and so we were told to have a little wander to the workshop and food would be ready in about half hour. the workshop consisted of a leader and several of the older children making fantastic beaded jewellery. We were all ready to spend all our money there and then but we decided to wait to see how much we had first. We took pictures and promised to be back and then very ravenous headed back to the eating area.
Unfortunately Ghana time kicked in and we did not get any food until 2.30 by which time many of us sitting had turned into ferocious beasts. You simply can not withold food from growing children!!!! Say no more..
Handinhand is a fantastic place and I dont think I have seen disadvantaged children treated much better in any facility I have been to. they had stinulation and fun for most of the day. They swam in a little pool each day, they had singing, discos, donkey rides, cuddles and people lavishing attention on them. there was a delightful little playground and all were given the opportunity to play throughout the day. there were quite a few volunteers and if there are any Marlburians out there who feel they would like to do something worthwhile then this would be a fantastic place to spend some time. the visitors are encouraged to interact with the children and of course sian was over like a rocket swimming with them cuddling and generally being around. Huw was also helping out but Marc felt a little awkward.
It was at about this time on Friday that we realised we might have a little problem. Living in Europe you rely on credit cards, banks and cheque accounts. Living and travelling in rural Ghana, you need to have ready cash. We had underestimated a little how much we might need and it looked as though we would hav e to sit in our rooms until sunday morning..
Richard and I decided to take a little walk into town to see if we could change some American currency. All banks were closed and it lkooked a little hopeless until we met up with a security guard. the only bank where we might use our credit card was about a one and half hour taxi ride away. when we mentioned we had some American currency he asked if we would like to change it on the black market. How exciting.....
We agreed and he directed us to the drug store where we would fing somebody....
It wasn't half as exciting as it should have been but we met a very nice man who gavce us a reasonable deal and made it possible to enjoy our weekend..
We took the good news back to the children and enjoyed the evening thinking about our exciting day on Saturday.
Our rooms were fabuloously confortable and we had a very extravagant mosquito net though how effective it was I can't really say, there were quite a few biggish holes, but it was very romantic. don't worry I was sharing with Gwenan and Sian so it wasnt THAT romantic.

We hsared our meal with some very nice American girls who are over doing some voluntary work through the church.
We didn't get up too early on saturday but heased off to boabang monkey sanctuary at about 1000. the road was amazingly bumpy and bad and when we went over some of the bigger bumps you could feel the scraping on the underbelly of the catr. I was very worried about the vehicle.
We arrived safely and paid the obligatory entry fee. I think our minds are still fairly focussed on european places of interest and so it still comes as a bit of a shock at how low key these places are. We were met by a ranger who without much ado proceeded to lead us into the forest.
It was so exciting. We saw Colobus and Mona monkeys playing and swinging in the trees and they were so cute. they are very sacrted and theur was even a burial site for the monkeys who were found or seen die.
We also saw a little army on fire ants and Gwenan was pleased to walk on. Marc was a mine of information and was able to tell us almost as much as the tour guide. We also saw a poisonous millipede and it was big and ugly. the fire ants also give nasty bites.
We saw fantastic butterflies, birds and lots of pretty horrible looking bugs, but luokily NO SPIDERS!!!!! Apparently you don't see many until December, I have been blessed after all..
We took loads o9f pics and video and all too soon it was time to leave. We paid our ranger who was really very wsweet and had been really helpful. Oh we also had an adventure with one of the colobus monkeys. they are very family oriented and the father is very protective of his family group[. As we were leaving it was very sweet to see the little ones swinging across the road and playing with each other. We had noted the father in the middle of the road and as we got a little (too close) he decided we shoud be warned off. He let out a screech and started advancing towards us quite menacingly being very brave I urged everyone to retreat. the ranger had to grab a stick and threaten back to get the monkey to stop. Eventually all lthe family were on the same side of the road and we were allowed to pass.
On the ride home our taxi driver 'Adams" slowed down and pointed out a very large approx 2-3metres long, snake lazily slithering acrtoss the road. It was enormous and made us all feel very glad to be in the safety of the car. We had passed people working in the bush and walking along the side of the road.
How brave these people. We arrived back at hand in hand to feed the troops. Marc Huw and Sian then opted to stay at the centre in the pool whilke R G and I walked into town. I have never been afraid in Tamale but i have to admit that I would not walk these streets after dark!!!
I went to an internet cafe to send my mummy birthday wishes but the two emails I sent to my brother and my dad were sent back to me. so my mummy, and belated ly Daddy, happy birthday we have been thinking of you a lot...
Dad could you emil me, your email address keeps being rejected.
Rache, we have found chocolate spread to die for.... forget Cadbury, Nutella any of those, we have Ghana choco spread and it is heavenly...
Jono, thanks for the note great to hear from you also, I know when I am settled again I will think back to those quiet mornings.
Liz, where are you. Miss you loads.
Sal and sheryl, miss you both non't forget to think of me at tea on Saturdays in summerfield.
To all our friends who have sent messages, thankyou.
We are having a great time, it's not always easy but its always worthwhile. Maybe next blog I can fill you in a bit more on everyday life. we feel very settled but still learning all the time.
Love to you all.



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