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Published: April 24th 2008
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the hill
View from the hill The Hill (Stanley Baker)
The Hill in this film was an instrument of torture used in the main by a sadistic Sergeant in the British Armed Forces. He had it constructed out of sand. If he had lived in Cape Coast he could have had his pick of many naturally formed such instruments. As it turned out our permanent (or not as the case may be) home for the next two years provided us with our very own hill.
It has been a while since my last blog offering and in many ways a great deal has happened but perhaps the most significant event has been to find a very substantial, comfortable, altogether pleasant house with an exceptional view of Cape Coast, perched as it is on top of one of the highest of its hills. It takes a really heroic act of aerobic effort to reach our house but it is worth it.
VSO did not find the house as they are supposed to do but I have promised myself not to dwell on what is not happening as far as work goes. I would rather concentrate on the good and often humorous aspects of our stay so far. The other stuff will either get sorted or it will not.
We had to have an audience, and believe me it felt like an audience, with the owner of the house before he would agree to let it. .A friendly gentleman who gleefully described himself as a Polish, German Ghanaian. He also told us very proudly that he is seventy six years old. He did not tell us that he owned the whole hill our house stands on that includes all the other houses, a substantial hotel and a bakery although he did let slip that he still owned a working factory in Accra, the capital city.
Given his standing in the community, our hill appears to be a very safe place in a generally safe town. The owner is our close neighbour and it did not take him long to decide that he was fine with that. For our part we are very happy that he is that close and his grandson and manager of the hotel, Isaac is the most helpful person you could wish to meet. He even provided us with a T.V. so that I can watch the football and there is a lot of football here. (Gloria is really grateful!) Isaac’s favourite phrase when anything goes wrong is ‘well that is Africa’. He has said it quite a few times to us over the past few weeks.
So we are happy with our hill and it is a good place to come home to or in my case to spend the day in. In fact I have found myself missing it when we have had to travel to Accra and to the very North of the country. Not as much as I miss the kids at home but in all honesty more than I miss much else about home. Kwame has just arrived.
‘Hello Kwame’.
‘Good morning David’.
‘Are you well today?’ I asked.
‘Very well’.
‘And your family?’
‘They are fine also’, he replied.
‘How are you and Gloria?’
‘We are both very well, thank you’.
Now if any of you are thinking that this is one tortured conversation you must realise that I have learned that not to begin conversations in this way is most offensive to Ghanaians and that a little time in polite pleasantries smoothes the way for the rest of the discussion that may also be friendly or on occasions difficult. It is something that people elsewhere would do well to copy. This was not my natural style before coming here but even old grouches can change.
‘Kwame, is the word Obruni a greeting or an insult?’
‘Yes it is’ he replied, without expanding.
‘I am sorry but I do not understand’ I said.
He sighed as if talking to a child but continued.
‘It is better to accept it as merely a description of your colour. Those that want to insult you will pass you by as quickly as those who intend it as a greeting. It is only when you get to know people that it will become important. Those that wish to insult you will not want to get to know you so it is not a problem.’
‘Thank you, I think.’
Bye for now.
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Janina
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Kwame, Srame...
I'm sorry, but this man sounds like he fancies himself as some wise one, pontificating all the time at you, talking in riddles etc - he seems to be totally deluded and I have taken an instinctive dislike to him - I think , one would call him a 'plonker' in English - is that terrible? I'm not very charitable in my old age am I? You hint that there's not much happening with work - having read Christy's comments, I - like her- am thirsty for more substantive info - please let us know what's happening...love to both of you J xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx