We've been walking, fast, through the rainforest for well over an hour, trying to keep up with our two young guides when they suddenly stop. Sitting ahead, his back against a tree, is Kamala, a huge silver back lowland gorilla, busy eating a piece of forest fruit. He looks up to acknowledge our arrival, finishes the fruit and stretches. Slowly rising onto all fours, he strides off into the jungle following the rest of his family. We are in the Loango National Park in Gabon. Getting here from the capital, Libreville, has involved a flight to Port Gentil, two 4x4 trail drives and four boat transfers across the huge lagoon that dominates this park. The first small boat got us to Loango Lodge for the night, the second to Louri Wilderness Camp, deeper into the park.
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