October 27: Headed to the chaotic Kaneshie station to find transportation to the west of Ghana en route to our ultimate destination: Cote d'Ivoire. Stopped for a quick lunch in the dirty port town of Takoradi before heading for the Ivorian border at Elubo. Like most border towns, Elubo is not a terribly pleasant place to linger: money changers hissed and yelled as we passed, waving handfulls of CFA Francs in the air; the dispossessed huddled under the corrogated tin roofs of delapidated buildings; and hustlers, pushers, and muggers patrolled the rough, unsurfaced roads. With the sunlight fleeting in late afternoon, we were forced to locate accommodation on the border: a place described as being "clean, comfortable and very affordable" by our guidebook. It was a dump. The receptionist, a boy probably no older than 12,
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