Blogs from Congo, Africa - page 4

So Bétou is basically a village, though it’s referred to here as a “small city” because it’s the capital of a province. Aside from local mud or wood dwellings, it has a big Italian-owned timber company whose processing facility is a few steps from the UNHCR compound, a small market that for some reason has a large proportion of vendors from Mauritania (which is nowhere near the Congo), one "restaurant," and three bars/discos. I am particularly thrilled about the discos, because possibly one of my favorite kinds of music in the world is Congolese music - you may recall I took dance lessons in Malawi…those were with Congolese, who are possibly the best dancers in Africa. I didn’t know this until I came here, but apparently Mobutu (the former DRC dictator) played a large role in ... read more

The plunge into Central Africa brought us to a string of exotic-sounding places I’d never heard of in my life; places like Oyem, Ndjole, Lambarene, N’dende, Mila-mila, M’banza Kongo,Benguela and Lubango. The few that I had heard of - Brazzaville, Kinshasa, Luanda - did not fill my heart with delight, though there was a little buzz, a small flush of excitement, connected with each, because they seemed like cities of the imagination, places that had seen hard times, were or had been hard to live in, and were visited only by intrepid explorers, coffee swilling journalists and wary expats. The sense of adventure was with us as we headed south, though for me it came with some sleepless nights. Gabon was easy to travel through until we hit the equator, and the paved jungle road descended ... read more

Life without running water involves containers, basins and buckets. In general water is transported in 25 litre containers in carts, wheelbarrows, on heads or in taxis from communal pumps. This single water supply is used for drinking, preparing food, washing oneself, the house, children and laundry. ... read more

Breakfast in Brazzaville can be a surreal experience. The ‘Exotic Palace’ seemed quite a formal affair with tablecloths, while ‘porcelain’ and fully togged waiters. Initially I had the impression of stepping into a 1930s tea room, yet the contest between France24 broadcast in one corner and Celion Dion at the patisserie counter gave this place the truly African touch. Brazzaville’s business men were present en masse. One particular entrepreneur caught my attention, partly because of his meet and greet style (showed off too much, only new to the money and power circles), partly because his assistant was busy shifting files from his briefcase to the table. Thick wads of cash were openly passed around. I scan the room to find someone equally perplexed by the situation, but no one bats an eyelid. The lady next to ... read more

Initial reaction of intense disappointment. Where has the city so revered by Europeans and Congolese alike been hidden? True, the coast with its Atlantic waves and golden sand (just like light brown demerera sugar) is stunning. Yet the oil rigs and Disney style resorts invade the beauty. There is an air of something perverse, although that could just be the presence en masse of macho, chain smoking oil rig workers who expulse an aura that money is power. 21 July 2008 I have seen the light. Driving down Avenue Charles de Gaulle at night with the illuminated facades of shops, restaurants, casinos and night clubs shows Pointe Noire in a new light. It almost seems like a European coastal resort - save for the drone of generators and accompanying stench of burning diesel. Yet once beyond ... read more