We take the dawn ferry from Sao Vincente to Santo Antao, our fourth Cape Verdian island. Thankfully, it is a calm sea. The island's hills are rugged, rocky and recently volcanic. We start along a cobbled track, they are common in Cape Verde. We are high enough to sometimes be in the clouds. Pine trees catch the moisture and drip on us. There is a huge view south over Sao Vincente, looking very small in the vast Atlantic. We climb over a ridge and the view changes. Below us is a deep ravine, maybe 400 metres down near-vertical sides. The sides are striated with different colours of rock and nestling at the bottom are small villages, each surrounded by terraced fields. It is a beautiful and arresting sight. We walk around the ravine rim and then
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