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South America » Peru » Ancash » Huaraz May 4th 2006

WARNING: If you find plant photos extremely boring, I advise you to wait until the next blog email gets to you. Well, the Puyas are defintiely one of the plants to see before you die. Unbelievably tall for something in the same family as pineapples. Even the ones I saw (mostly dead adult plants) were small, and if you look closely at some of the photos with me as a scale you can get an idea of how big these monsters were! Whilst travelling parts of Bolivia I had spotted a couple of smaller Puya species, so I was floored to see the size of these guys! Apparently there was a live plant with a flower spike somewhere nearby, but at over 4000m (4130m asl, to be exact) above sea level, I wasn´t up to hiking ... read more
Carpa Sector, Parque Nacional Huascaran
the first Puya raimondii sighting
young Puyas on the hillsides

South America » Peru » Arequipa » Arequipa May 4th 2006

Jeff gave his talk on research to the students this morning. (He gives the same talk slightly modified for the faculty tomorrow.) Once again, he ended up speaking in Spanish because the students (who supposedly speak and read English) claimed not to. For lunch today we had Guiso de Calabaza, which is a rice and squash dish with yellow pepper sauce with it. It was quite good, but I don’t think it was anyone’s favorite. I went to el Super (the supermarket) today to pick up some items. * 46 ct. pack of Huggies s/42.00 * 6 bananas s/1.50 * chiramoya s/2/65 * cantaloupe s/2.57 * 2 mangoes s/1.69 * Small pkg laundry detergent s/3.80 * Ivory liquid handsoap s/8.90 ( 2 tuna s/1.54 Chiramoya is a heart shaped artichoke like fruit that has a texture ... read more
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South America » Peru » Cusco » Cusco May 4th 2006

Cuzco was our base for the Inca Trail and we spent several days there before and after the trek. It is a beautiful place that was once the most important city of the Inca empire and consequently a major target for the invading Spanish. Wherever you see a church in Cusco you know it used to be the site of an Inca temple. A lot of the original Inca walls in the city still stand, a testament to the engineering needed to withstand the frequent earthquakes. Modern Cusco is really a tourist haven - international food, bars, hotels etc., but still retains tons of Incan and colonial history and architecture. We had a couple of good nights out here, dancing with the other gringos and locals until the early hours.... read more
Colonial Plaza de Armas
Sacsayhuaman
Plaza de Armas

South America » Peru » Ancash » Huaraz May 4th 2006

We journied to Huaraz on Monday morning in a very posh coach, complete with DVDs, air conditioning and club class style seats (not exactly traveller´s roughing it). As it happened the air conditioning clapped out after an hour so we sweated the rest of the 8-hour journey in the baking heat all the way to Huaraz. The coach bravely climbed the mountain side over a 4000m+ pass before descending into Huaraz in the valley below the looming Cordillera Blanca. The journey took in some stunning views of crystal clear lakes, rolling hills and we also saw our first llamas of the journey. When we arrived in Huaraz we were greeted by several expedition companies and reps all offering their wares. We followed a guy called Aldo who showed us to the Hotel Galaxia which, despite having ... read more
View From the Rooftop
Mountains
Totos in Peru!

South America » Peru » Puno May 4th 2006

We got to Puno tired, sick of tours and early mornings so the first day was spent just relaxing within a couple of blocks of our hotel. Our hotel was pretty ordinary, its only real good point was that it had the cleanest bathroom so far. The receptionist was a lovely old guy who turned out to be a few raisins short of a fruit cake. Though he did recommend us a Chinese restaurant for tea which was cheap, great service and served the best stuffed avocado we have had so far. Puno like our hotel was a pretty ordinary and uninspiring. I went in search of breakfast in the morning and found a yummy bakery, a dairy selling manjar, and a street avocado stall. We walked down the pedestrian street full of tour agencies and ... read more
The floating islands on Lake Titikaka
Floating islands and reed boat
Reed boat

South America » Peru » Lima May 4th 2006

Hi I am in Lima testing tis travel blog ... read more

South America » Peru » Puno May 3rd 2006

Yesterday we took a bus from Arequipa over high ground to Puno on the shore of Lake Titicaca. The lake is at 3800m. Trudy is feeling the effects of the altitude, headache. We are drinking coca tea. Today in the morning we went to visit the floating islands and this afternoon to visit the pre incan funeral towers. More details and pictures later --- ok after many attempts I have managed to get some viewable pictures loaded. The morning trip to the floating islands was a little over the top touristy. The funeral tower ruins were interesting and the setting amazing but we should have shook the guide who went on and on about incan mystism, not our thing. ... read more
Eat reeds.
Tourist trap.
Puno hotel room

South America » Peru » Arequipa » Arequipa May 3rd 2006

Jeff worked most of the day today preparing for two lectures he’ll be giving on Thursday and Friday morning. Alberto, Elizabeth and I went to a remate (sale) of alpaca goods. They had spectacular sweaters, blankets, scarves, pashminas, coats, gloves and hats. The baby alpaca material feels just like cashmere. I would list prices, but I bought some of you gifts so …. let’s just say that a sweater I’d expect to spend about $200 on at Macy’s ran $30 or less. For lunch we had Aji de Gallina, a traditional Peruvian meal of hen with roasted pepper (yellow pepper, but not bell). We all liked it, but Jeff loved it and I’m sure I’ll be duplicating it when we get home if I can find a source for the peppers. Alberto and Elizabeth have household ... read more
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South America » Peru » Cusco » Cusco May 3rd 2006

Ah, I finally worked out how to read my messages - thanks to everyone for your comments!! :) I´m starting to feel more like an independent traveller! And I´m starting to feel the pressures of time.. Peru is certainly a different ambiance to Bolivia. I thought there were a lot of tourists in Bolivia, but Peru tops the list! And, whereas most travellers in Bolivia were doing a 6 month to 1 year stint, many travellers to Peru go nowhere else! Here is a brief overview of my itinerary since I arrived: Desaguadero (border crossing) - Puno (on Lake Titicaca) - Uros Floating Islands - Isla Amantani - Isla Taquile - Puno - Cusco (at the heart of the Inca empire) - The Sacred Valley (Inca ruins of Pisac, Ollantaytambo and Chincyhero & markets in Corao ... read more
Puno - the port
The floating islands
The floating islands

South America » Peru » Ucayali » Pucallpa May 3rd 2006

Wed 5-3-06, 7:30am...wake up. still alive. Need to wake up, was told last night by Omer, the property Manager, 25 years old, to splash water in my face as soon as I woke up. No, I need a cold shower. Must wake up...get out of bed. Wash my body...NO, not MY body, the body I am using to experience LIFE. Last night 8pm Omer and Don Jose showed up, went to the small cottage/hut, near the main Hut. Dark. Noises everywhere. Sitting across from Elizabeth. Don Jose first whispers into his hands, blows tobacco smoke over the Ayahuasca, chants softly, a whisper. I have the first taste, shot glass size, brown thick but runny, chocolate, with fingernail polish remover taste. Melting into my stomach. gargling. We wait. Time passes as I begin to feel the first ... read more
Every Night A New Moth
The Amazing Life
Moto-Caro




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