Puno has a reputation for being both dreary and full of pickpockets, and indeed its outskirts were grubby and packed with buildings under construction, but its centre possessed a couple of pleasant plazas. Our first evening there, we were passed by a parade (possibly for the Virgin of Carmen), consisting of a bunch of young schoolkids holding lanterns, a float bearing the figure of the Virgin herself, a band, and a guy letting off fireworks from his hands. The town is most famous as a base for visiting the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca, which boasts the meaningless title of the world's highest navigable lake. More significant is its actual height above sea level - about 3,800m - which makes it a prime location for soroche for anyone coming from much lower altitudes. The RG's gushing
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