After 2 nights in Ipanema, on Thursday I packed up and, as planned, shifted camp to Rio Hostel (imaginative name!) in Santa Teresa. I had heard it was slightly less safe here, so was a little wary, but have had no problems so far, and Santa Teresa is so beautiful it would be worth it. Lovely grand old buildings bedecked in greenery, crumbling and mildewing and flaking of paint. The other night I had dinner in a little square in the centre, in a bookshop that doubles as a cafe/pizzeria and has rooms for rent in the attic. There were parrots squawking in the tree above me, little candles in the pots, a girl crooning silky smooth samba songs, and a man rocking his child to sleep in a hammock, singing softly along like a lullaby.
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