Santa Teresa

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After 2 nights in Ipanema, on Thursday I packed up and, as planned, shifted camp to Rio Hostel (imaginative name!) in Santa Teresa.

I had heard it was slightly less safe here, so was a little wary, but have had no problems so far, and Santa Teresa is so beautiful it would be worth it.

Lovely grand old buildings bedecked in greenery, crumbling and mildewing and flaking of paint. The other night I had dinner in a little square in the centre, in a bookshop that doubles as a cafe/pizzeria and has rooms for rent in the attic.

There were parrots squawking in the tree above me, little candles in the pots, a girl crooning silky smooth samba songs, and a man rocking his child to sleep in a hammock, singing softly along like a lullaby.

Beneath me you could see the city centre with its office towers giving way to the older architecture and winding streets and steps that mark the edge of the district, a boundary softened by the fuzzy green of the tree lined streets.

Rio is so green! I had never imagined it so. And the trees look so tropical, all aerial roots, bright flowers, and draped with lianas. Also, at least in Ipanema where I was before, there is a phenomena of attaching pot plants and hanging baskets or flowers, ferns and orchids to the street trees (which take well to this treatment being gnarled and mossy with lots of ledges). I don't know if it is individuals doing this or a municipal department; some canarys in cages are also hung, and these seem to belong to the adjacent apartment buildings; but it gives a lovely effect, and it seems like the trees grow out and around the pots, giving a gorgeous botanical amalgam.

Speaking of botanical, I must go. I am going to the Botanical gardens today, and maybe another park. Yesterday was raining so I spent it hopping in and out of churches, museums and cafes, and though today is not sunny I want to be outdoors.

Farewell for now, and fond regards 😊

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