Land Ho! After seven days at sea we woke up, looked out the window and there was a wall of green. In the middle of nowhere, far from any continent, lies the beautiful group of islands known collectively as French Polynesia. Inhabited for thousands of years and made famous to Westerners by the likes of Gauguin, Heyerdahl and Michener, these lush, romantic specks of land have fueled imaginations with dreams of tropical isles, soft breezes and gorgeous people for centuries. Nuku Hiva, being the northernmost island of this chain, is the first stop for sailors venturing west from the Americas as well as cruise ships making their way to the South Pacific. This small, undeveloped island is home to about 3000 people and is a favorite of French tourists. On the morning of our arrival,
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