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Oceania » Australia » Western Australia » Broome August 23rd 2021

COVID cases are continuing to climb at a slightly alarming rate back home, and lockdown restrictions now include a curfew. This doesn’t sound all that appealing so we decide to stay on up here for a few more days in the seemingly vain hope that things on the home front might soon improve, even if the weather doesn’t. Our not so salubrious accommodation has run out of rooms, so today we have to move. There seemed to be only one room left in the whole town that was available for us to move to. We hope it's slightly more salubrious than the one we've left; the price suggests we should be getting Buckingham Palace. I take a quick look at the weather forecast. I’m not sure why; we’ve scarcely seen a cloud since we left home ... read more
Rock formations near Broome Port
Roebuck Bay from Broome Port
Rock formations near Broome Port

Oceania » Australia » Western Australia » Broome August 22nd 2021

Yesterday I’m having a nightmare, but it’s OK, I’ve woken up. So how come it still feels like a nightmare, only worse. I blame the pizza. I‘m still having visions of pizza, with meat and cheese, so much meat and greasy cheese, and it’s burnt. Why did I eat it I think. The rest of the day is a nausea filled blur, spent half in bed and half in, well, another room. The highlight is Issy coming back after buying half the pharmacy - anti-nausea tablets, Panadol, electrolyte….. maybe we really should have gone to the hospital like she suggested. At least she’s not sick too, although I’m not sure how she’s escaped. We had at least one piece of each other’s pizza. We did have different drinks. That must be it, although I wasn’t aware ... read more
Cable Beach sunset
Cable Beach
Cable Beach

Oceania » Australia » Western Australia » Broome August 20th 2021

Today we’ve booked a tour to the Willie Creek Pearl Farm which is about 40 kilometres north of Broome, out on the west side of the Dampier Peninsula. We’re collected by our guide and bus driver for the morning who introduces herself as Lisa. Lisa tells us that to be a true Broome local you need to satisfy three criteria, excluding presumably that you need to live here. You need to have a boat in your driveway. Apparently it doesn’t necessarily need to be functional, it just needs to be visible, in your driveway. You also need to drink a lot, and have a dog to take for walks along Cable Beach with other local dog walkers. We’re also told that houses in Broome don’t have gutters. It seems that it rains so hard that if ... read more
Willie Creek Pearl Farm
Art work, Willie Creek Pearl Farm
Pearl shells, Willie Creek Pearl Farm

Oceania » Australia » Western Australia » Broome August 19th 2021

Today we travel back to Broome. We’re really only going there because the only other place we can fly to from Kununurra is Darwin, but if we go there we’ll get locked up for two weeks when we get home. We‘re probably a bit "Broomed-out", but it still feels like a much better option than going home to a cold and miserable lockdown. The news from home gets worse by the day. There were 57 COVID cases overnight which is the highest number in about a year. We’re starting to think that it’s only a matter of time until the Delta variant gets into Western Australia, and if that happens while we’re still here we’re sure to get locked up somewhere; either here or when we get back home. We’re driven from Emma Gorge to Kununurra ... read more


They wait listed us for another tour when we first arrived here, and it's on today. As was the case with yesterday’s tour we didn’t ask too many questions, so we still don’t know anything about it. We go to reception to find out whether any vacancies have come up. They ask us which tour and we look at them blankly. They tell us that it must be the Explosion Gorge Tour, and then proceed to describe it in great detail. It sounds fantastic - a cruise along a remote gorge followed by champagne and cheese at a lookout watching a spectacular sunset. We’re salivating. Unfortunately this doesn’t last too long. They check again and it seems that there still aren’t any vacancies, so we won’t be going. It might have been nice to know this ... read more
Accommodation, Emma Gorge
Cockburn Range and Emma Gorge campground
Emma Gorge


Today we‘ve booked a tour to…. well we don’t actually know. It was the only tour running either yesterday or today which wasn’t booked out so we thought we’d better grab it whatever it was. We’re now thinking that perhaps we should have asked a few more questions. Our guide Mick gives us a bit more information on the history of El Questro. It seems that it wasn't all plain sailing in the years immediately after tourist operations first started here in 1992. Emma Gorge started life with 27 tents, but they were all wiped out in a massive cyclone only a couple of years later, during which 440 mm of rain fell in only about 12 hours. A few years after they were rebuilt they were largely wiped out again, this time by a fire. ... read more
Chamberlain Gorge
Palm forest, Zebedee Springs
Keeping in touch with the outside world, El Questro Station


We set off for an early morning hike up Emma Gorge. We’re told that it’s only 1.6 kms each way, but that we should walk within our capability and not be too ashamed to crawl over rocks with our backsides on the ground. Hmmm. That doesn’t sound too encouraging. It all starts off easily enough - "what were they on about" we ask each other; this is like a gentle Sunday morning stroll in the park. It seems we may have spoken just a tad too soon. The trail takes a sudden and unexpected turn for the worse. We're now scrambling over boulders on our hands and knees with no shame at all. We ask hikers coming in the other direction what the rest is like. One woman has a look of terror in her eyes; ... read more
Emma Gorge
Rock pool, Emma Gorge
Rock pool, Emma Gorge


Today we fly back to Kununurra and from there on to El Questro in the East Kimberley. We’ve got some time to kill so we visit Broome’s Japanese and Chinese cemeteries. These were originally deliberately located outside the town boundary, probably for some obscure reason related to our racist past. Thankfully the town boundary was subsequently moved, so they’re now well inside. The Chinese section is a bit underwhelming and not particularly well maintained. I wonder if Premier Xi knows about this. If not I’m sure he soon will, which will undoubtedly result in yet another mark against us Aussies in his now probably not so little black book. The Japanese area is certainly more attractive, and there’s also a bit more information on its history. The first burial here was way back in the 1890s, ... read more
Japanese Cemetery, Broome
The road into Emma Gorge
El Questro sunset


We walk out of our apartment to see a long line of elegantly dressed women, complete with high heels, fancy dresses and fascinators, waiting for transport. It seems that the Broome Cup is on today, and it looks just like Melbourne Cup Day back home; well except for the minor matter of the weather. I wonder what these now very fashionably dressed ladies will look like by day's end - broken heels, smudged makeup and grazed knees are a fair bet if other cups I've experienced are anything to go by. I hope they'll think it was worth it. Today we've booked a seaplane flight to the iconic Horizontal Falls which are somewhere around 250 kms north-east of Broome, and only accessible by boat or plane. We board our ten-seater craft and track north along Cable ... read more
Buccaneer Archipelago
Cape Leveque
Buccaneer Archipelago

Oceania » Australia » Western Australia » Broome August 13th 2021

We decide to give ourselves a day off from sight seeing. News from home suggests that they’re going to be locked down for at least the next two weeks so we take our cue to spend the day trying to work out how and where we’re going to extend our time up here in warmth and freedom. We briefly consider heading across to North Queensland until we realise that this is now also a COVID hotspot, and if we go anywhere near it they’ll lock us up and throw away the key when we get home. (I'm not quite sure why but "locked up" somehow sounds a lot worse than "locked down".) We decide to opt for a few nights in a tent in the Kimberleys near Kununurra, followed by a week in Darwin. It’s a ... read more




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