Blogs from Eastern Anatolia, Turkey, Middle East - page 2

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Middle East » Turkey » Eastern Anatolia » Kars June 28th 2014

Eastern Turkey 28th June 2014 “... while the killers in high places say their prayers aloud” Leonard Cohen, Anthem "Evacuations were unlawful and violent. Security forces would surround a village using helicopters, armored vehicles, troops, and village guards, and burn stored produce, agricultural equipment, crops, orchards, forests, and livestock. They set fire to houses, often giving the inhabitants no opportunity to retrieve their possessions. During the course of such operations, security forces frequently abused and humiliated villagers, stole their property and cash, and ill-treated or tortured them before herding them onto the roads and away from their former homes. The operations were marked by scores of “disappearances” and extrajudicial executions. By the mid-1990s, more than 3,000 villages had been virtually wiped from the map, a... read more
Kars Citadel
Kars street scene
Kurdish family having a picnic

Middle East » Turkey » Eastern Anatolia » Kars June 28th 2014

Ani, Eastern Anatolya, Turkey 28th June 2014 “Every heart to love will come But like a refugee” Leonard Cohen, Anthem Ani is located about 45 kms east of Kars in Turkish Kurdistan and is spectacularly bordered on its eastern side by the Akhurian river, which serves as the border with Armenia. It is a ruined medieval Armenian city-site, first mentioned in the 5th century and standing on various trade routes, including the silk road (athough there do seem to be many branches of the silk road). From 961 to 1045 is served as the capital of the Armenian Kingdom, with a popuation of up to 200,000. Following various conquests, plunderings and assaults, it was eventually abandoned and largely forgotten after the earthquake of 1319, but has remained a disputed territory ever since. In 1921 most of ... read more
Ani walls
Church of the Holy Mother of God
Distant view of western wall

Middle East » Turkey » Eastern Anatolia » Kars » Ani May 17th 2014

Heute ist ein kurzer Tag, es sind nur 211 km nach Kars. Die Landschaft ist wunderschön, Wolfgang und ich waren vor 5 Jahren schon mal da und ich dachte immer: Da müsste ich mal mit dem Motorrad hin. Es ging einige Zeit ein Flusstal entlang und ansonsten durch ein weites Tal, völlig baumlos. Lange verlief die Straße parallel zur Bahnstrecke Istanbul–Ankara–Kayseri–Sivas–Erzurum–Gjumri (Armenien). Seit 1994 ist Kars jedoch östliche Endstation, da der Streckenabschnitt nach Gjumri als Folge der Grenzschließung zwischen der Türkei und Armenien im Kontext des Bergkarabachkonflikts stillgelegt wurde. Es verkehrt täglich je ein Zug zwischen Kars und Ankara und Istanbul. Kars ist der Ausgangspunkt einer umstrittenen Bahnstrecke nach Baku über Achalkalaki und Tiflis, die seit 2007 gebaut wird. Vor Kars dann die Katastrophe des Tages: eine Radarfalle, ich war 107 kmh statt 90, diesmal gab ... read more
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Dorf bei Kars

Middle East » Turkey » Eastern Anatolia » Kars May 17th 2014

Kars After some motorway driving, we took a really nice road along a river to Kars, our last stop in Turkey. We got to avoid more cows, goats, sheep, and tractors along the way. Finding the hotel was an adventure, becsuse the main street is closed for construction, and the one way street system has recently been changed. The GPS doesn't know the changes, but after driving through small streets and the market street I got to the hotel. I think it was largely luck, because I was trying to get back out of town to start over. Near Kars are the ruins of the ancient Armenain capital of Ani. It is amazingly large, with a few buildings remaining along with some of the wall. It is just inside the Turkish border, and there are Armenian ... read more

Middle East » Turkey » Eastern Anatolia » Erzurum May 16th 2014

Der heutige Tag war eher ein langer Fahrtag, über mehrere Pässe, manchmal lagen Schneeflecken ganz in der Nähe. Ganz zu Anfang des Tages stand die Überquerung des Atatürk Stausees. Er bedeckt einige hundert Weiler und Dörfer. Etwa 55.000 bis 65.000 Menschen mussten zuvor in die Umgebung umgesiedelt werden, und natürlich gibt es große ökologische Probleme... Die Fähre wurde ganz voll gestopft, wobei das Problem war, dass sie nur auf einer Seite offen war - man musste rückwärts reinfahren. Die Motorräder kamen ganz vorne hin. Am Vormittag wurde ich von der Polizei aufgehalten, aber ich meisterte die Situation. Ich nahm den Helm ab, strahlte sie an, schüttelte meine Haare aus, wartete bis sich das Erstaunen gelegt hatte, und verstand garnichts was sie sagten. (Ich hattte eigentlich keinen Zweifel, dass es ihnen nicht gefallen hatte, dass ich statt ... read more
Viele Hirten waren unterwegs
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Der Atatürk Stausee

Middle East » Turkey » Eastern Anatolia » Erzurum May 16th 2014

Erzurum A nice day for riding with good mountain views and green plains and rolling hills. The country side doesn't look much different from the central and western US. Erzurum is a ski town in the winter, complete with 5 ski jumps and a couple of fancy hotels. We had to stop a least a dozzen times towait for herds of cows or goats to cross the road. We are working our way to Georgia and Azerbaijan and the beginning of Asia.... read more

Middle East » Turkey » Eastern Anatolia » Van September 11th 2013

I woke this , morning and was joined at the breakfast table by the tour driver who wanted to charge me 200€ to go to Nemrut Dagi I literally choked on me food he rushed off to get me water. Between gasps for air I was angrily telling him what I thought of that shit. He dropped his price but it is to late I cold fly to London for that, so I got a Syrian guy and a young Aussie backpacker to agree to share a cab out to a nearby attraction, when we got in he taxi Sameer asked how much to Nemrut Dagi, after some negotiation he set a price of 275 Turkish lira which was about half my earlier quote and they would share that cost. So off we went in the ... read more
The walled lane ways of the old city
The guest house courtyard
Climbing the mountain

Middle East » Turkey » Eastern Anatolia » Kars » Ani August 7th 2013

With just 3 days remaining before I cross the border over into Georgia, it's time to say farewell to Turkey. Having spent the past 9 weeks cycling through this beautiful country, visiting the western, southern, central and north-eastern areas it is fair to say that I have gained a good insight into what makes up this huge land, its people, its culture and its traditions. The cycling has been the toughest I have yet experienced on this trip, crossing numerous mountain ranges in the intense daytime heat. I have one more pass to cross the day after tomorrow which will see me pedalling to a height of 2640m (nearly 8000 ft). The heat has been so intense at times that the tarmac has been melting and sticking to my tyres. The number of punctures has also ... read more
A hat to stop him getting sunburn
Calcium water pools at Pumakkale
Pamukkale ruins

Middle East » Turkey » Eastern Anatolia » Erzurum August 6th 2013

Tues 30th July - Tues 6th of August Erzurum, Turkey CAR PROBLEMS Local Mercedes specialist fixed the two front wheels because they were a bit wobbly, and checked the brakes. Also fixed the problem I had with stopping the engine by pulling a wire. It turned out to be a problem with a switch and not a vacuum problem. There were 2 holes on the cover of the rear differential and when the car moved, oil was coming out of these holes. The mechanic wanted to remove the cover to fix these holes. I stopped him in time to ask him to try my putty like material that hardens into a metal like material. It worked. The holes were covered and we avoided a potentially messy job. The bonnet release mechanism broke and it has been ... read more
Welding
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Middle East » Turkey » Eastern Anatolia » Erzurum July 30th 2013

Tues 30th July 2013 Set off from Elazig to Erzurum which is about 200 miles journey. half way through the journey heard this strange grinding noise from the car. Stopped to have a look and found out one of the linkage bar that connect the two rear wheels has broken after the accident, but not repaired. I tied a thick electrical cable around the metal bar to another metal bar for support to stop it hanging loose and grinding against the metal rim of the wheel. The rear differential was leaking of oil, also due to the accident - again not repaired properly in Malatya. I drove quickly to Erzurum to find a garage to repair the car. In Erzurum, i asked a stranger where is the nearest garage and he kindly pointed me to the ... read more
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