In February 2010, I took off for India again. This is my fifth time in India.
This time I again planned to travel around a bit, but then to front up at a voluntary placement I had signed up for - 12 months as an Organisational Development Advisor working with small HIV and AIDS community based organisations trying to become more 'professional' and 'viable'.
But a sideline in this venture this time is writing - hence this blog which is not meant to be a diary of my life in India, but a set of reflections and stories (and pictures) on and of my experiences and reactions. It also hopefully satisfies a certain set of 'friends' who like to keep up a little with what I am up to. And it's a nice thing to do to satisfy my own vanity too!
So.... I hope you enjoy some of the following....
In India, Hindu holy books extort devotees to seek the company of saints. A Sadhu is most often a wandering ascetic who has also often left a stable family and work life to seek a state of godly bliss. The word Sadhu means ‘good man’ or ‘saint’. They “...walk the streets, sit by the temples, camp under sacred trees, dwell in ashrams and akhara (ascetic camps) that are found everywhere. They are noticeable, available and approachable. They are called Baba meaning Father. One goes to the temple to pray to a God and one calls on a sadhu to associate with God, to attend to living examples of holiness, request advice, ask for an opinion, to ponder on what lies further than beyond, converse about the Invisible Whole or the nothings of daily life,
... read moreIt’s not always a pleasure riding on Indian roads. In fact it can often be a real hassle and a big risk to life and limb (and without the joy of riding which at least makes the thrill of bike risk-taking more acceptable!). But... often in the mountains, one is just bowled over by the sheer joy of a ride. Of course it can happen in fits and starts on those sections of road that are very good (as is the case sometimes on the ride to Leh and through Spitti Valley for example). But those rides are also marked by some real hard times amidst dust and rocks and sand and water. I had dreamed of riding through Uttarakhand ever since a quick visit to Almora , Kausani, and back to Kathgodam by bus and
... read moreSushil is 49 years old and has, for the past 20 years, run a chai stall which for the last 14 years has been under a peepal tree next to the river Ganges (Ganga) in Rishikesh. He was born 100 klms away and moved here with his family in 1979 when his father, a Village Development Office with the government, was stationed there. When he was 20 and his father and family again moved, he stayed on in this ‘World Capital of Yoga’ (made famous by the Beatles in the 1960s who discovered eastern mysticism there), living and learning yoga and meditation in local ashrams for about 15 years. He was a devotee of the famous Yogeshwari Malati Bal, who gave him Mantra Diksha (described by Sushil as the real deal and ‘proper way’ unlike a
... read moreTensing is 37 and hails from central Tibet, where together with his mother and a group of Tibetan nuns he escaped Chinese persecution in 1984 via a treacherous 14 day journey across the Himalayan plateau and into India. He has had a good education in India, and has lived in the USA and Spain. Now he lives in Rewalsar where his mother also lives the life of a Tibetan nun and his sister runs an excellent Tibetan restaurant serving Thupka, Momos and Chowmien. Rewalsar is just 23 klms from Mandi in Himachal Pradesh and is at an altitude of 1,360 m above sea level. It has always been sacred to Tibetan Buddhists but since the Chinese invasion of Tibet, it has become a refuge for many Buddhist monks, with three monasteries now in the town. The
... read moreUpdate: I arrived back in India on Sept 7th with Carolina after spending 4 months with her in Spain. We collected Gladys (the Royal Enfield Motorbike which I had left with my Mumbai friends Raj and Marge ) and took off north...... to Udaipur, Mt Abu, Pushkar, Bikaner in Rajasthan; then Amritsar in Punjab; and Dharamsala in Himachal Pradesh). In March 2010 I visited the Rat Temple with friend Libby in Deshnoke, about 30 klms before Bikaner in Rajasthan. On this current trip we rode through Deshnoke but did not stop. However, I wanted to just focus in this blog on this pretty weird and amazing temple, using pictures from 2010. Karni Mata (1387 – 1538 if you want to accept that she lived for 151 years!) was a female Hindu sage and is worshiped as
... read more“Destiny is usually just around the corner. Like a thief, a hooker, or a lottery vendor: its three most common personifications. But what destiny does not do is home visits. You have to go for it yourself.” The Shadow of the the Wind, Carlos Ruiz Zafon There is nothing quite as delicious as being enthralled and engrossed in a really good novel that is set in the very city that you are exploring for the first time, specially if that city is one of the great cities of the world, as is Barcelona. I have passed through Barcelona a number of times over the past months while living near Girona and en route to various destinations around Catalonia and beyond. But this time I was here just to discover some of the cities delights. Of course
... read moreI had returned to Switzerland for the first time since January 1983, having at that time spent the previous summer at an Alpage followed by picking grapes for the Vendange. I was taking the opportunity of the short hop from Barcelona to revisit my good friends Brigitte and Francois in Vevey. Carolina was with me and I figured we would just lay about a bit, swimming in Lac Lamont, and maybe mixing it with some meals and talk with Brigitte and Francois in between them having to work at the backpackers lodge they run in Vevey (it being the very busiest time of the year with the Montreux Jazz Festival on). The lay back certainly eventuated but we were meanwhile treated to a full week of wine, cheese, chocolate, walking, mountain stays, good company and visits
... read moreI had decided to come to Spain earlier than planned at the beginning of May 2011. More than partly of course to be reunited with Carolina who I had said goodbye to at the end of February after our southern India motor bike odyssey, but also because the thought of walking the Northern Camino across the top of Spain in late Spring before the heat and the crowds was an attractive proposition when laid against riding across India in the pre-monsoon heat. There are many ‘Caminos’ in Spain, camino meaning ´the way´ or ´the road´. They are medieval spiritual (Catholic) pilgrimage routes ending in Santiago in the west top part of Spain (Galicia). I had some misgivings due to the fact that I had just spent 15 months wearing Crocs in India, so that my feet
... read moreThe Bull Fight! Picture the image. Its all about one man with sharp instruments taking on a disoriented animal, resulting in the satisfaction of the bloodthirsty crowd. In Spain, I have only seen the pretty disturbing spectacle on the TV and don´t really want to see it live. The bull seemed to die a pretty gruesome and slow death. In Catalonia, bull fighting is pretty well now banned. Castells! Picture the image. It´s all about collaborative participation of a team depending on each other for nothing more than the achievement of completing a feat of balance and strength. Today the castelles team of Mataró celebrated their 15 years anniversary. A castell is a human tower built traditionally in festivals at many locations within Catalonia. They were declared by UNESCO to be amongst the Masterpieces of the
... read moreThis time in India began for me 15 months ago. And now it's time to leave (already?). On May 2nd I will board a train from Bhubaneswar (where I have been living and working for a year) to Mumbai with Gladys (Royal Enfield Bullet), stay with my good friends Raj and Marg there, and fly out on May 7th. Not to Australia: to Barcelona, Catalunya, Spain. I will stay with Carolina in her house in Canet d'Adri (Girona). I decided that I just wanted to get out of the ever intensifying Indian summer and, of course, I had the huge desire to get back together with Carolina sooner rather than later. We have many plans for the next five months, including walking the Camino, visiting some friends in southern France and in Switzerland, and going to
... read more