Arrival The plane from Chisinau to Kiev belonged to the almost unpronounceable Dniproavia Airways, but it got us there in under an hour. Driving towards the city, Michael and I passed areas of pure primeval forest, occasionally broken by billboards splashed with Cyrillic. Then we reached the outskirts of Kiev, and the concrete tower blocks appeared, always a feature of ex-Soviet cities. Kiev was big. It made Chisinau seem like a village. It stretched in all directions, both outwards and upwards. The centre of town was much nicer than the outskirts, but full of hills. Our hotel was located in a prime spot for sightseeing, and after dumping our things, we were out, hitting the early evening streets of Ukraine’s capital. Fish Head “I can’t believe the mullet lives on in Kiev!” I said, as we
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