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Europe » Russia » Centre » Tver March 11th 2006

I felt worse when I woke up. It was painfully similar to my illness in Yaroslavl. My whole body ached, especially my back and kidneys. There was a pain behind my eyes. I was too weak to get out of bed but could never manage to sleep for long. Every time I moved there was a gurgling in my chest that would become heartburn, and my nose was too blocked to breathe properly. ... read more

Europe » Russia » Centre » Tver March 10th 2006

The lecture this morning that I had cut short my trip to Moscow for was cancelled, to be replaced by an exursion to a kettle museum. To make things worse I woke up with a headache and a fever, feeling just as I had when I was ill in Yaroslavl in the autumn. I forgot to put my hat on for part of yesterday morning, and because I wasn't wearing a belt the freezing air reached my back too - Russian weather only needs to catch you out for an hour to make you pay for it. With a sore head and aching kidneys I trudged over the bridge with the other students. Spring is supposed to have arrived but the temperature is minus 9, and apparently it was minus 24 overnight. The museum was a ... read more

Europe » Russia » Volga » Ufa March 10th 2006

So liebe Leute, ich habe von den letzten fuenf Tagen mindestens die Haelfte im Zug verbracht. Dabei ca. 2500 km zurueckgelegt und zwei Zeitzonen hinter mir. Nun bin ich nach Zwischenstopp in Ufa wieder in Chelyabinsk gelandet. Komisch, wenn ich hierherkomme, als Gast, als Reisender und dennoch irgendwie auch als Rueckkehrer. Doch zuerst einmal kurz die Reiseerlebnisse beschrieben: 1. Start in Moskau: ich habe ein Video wie ich der Verkaeuferin erklaere das ich ein Zugticket nach Ufa moechte. Werde ich euch dann zuhaus vorfuehren. Ging alles reibungslos. Im Zug bin ich wieder per "Platzkart" unterwegs, dies ist ein Riesenabteil, mit Liegen uebereinander und ca. 50 Personen pro Wagon. Dies ist billiger, unbequemer und dennoch sicherer als ein Einzelabteil, da bei diesem, sobald die Tuer geschlossen ist, drin quasi alles moeglich ist...(ich werde diesen Punkt nicht ... read more

Europe » Russia » Northwest » Moscow March 9th 2006

We got up at 8.30 and watched some Moscow breakfast television. My shower was a real treat; I hadn't touched warm, clean water for three weeks. On her way to work Helen left me at Mayakovskaya metro station, which is half way down ulitsa Tverskaya. I strolled down the same street for three hours, trying to get a feel for the place. Being 'downtown' it is incredibly loud; a permanent traffic jam with pavements packed with people. Red Square is half an hour's walk from Tsvetnoi Bulvar, so I walked as far as the Kremlin and back. Looking in some of the shops for a belt and spring jacket was fruitless as every store on each side of the street was very expensive. I glanced up rather than left and right, to take stock of how ... read more

Europe » Russia » Northwest » Moscow March 8th 2006

I set off for Moscow at 3.30 in the afternoon. The single ticket cost 68 roubles, about the price of a cup of coffee. My accent was terrible as I first asked directions to the station then spoke to the woman at the 'kassa', but they took pity on me and didn't scowl too much. The 'elektrichka' train wasn't the most comfortable. I imagine it's an elongated prison van; it has a wide corridor, rows of hard metal benches and windows so grubby that it was almost impossible to see the beautiful countryside out of. Coming up from the muddy floor is the strong smell of wet dog. Two hours and five minutes later I was in Moscow. I had no idea that my elektrichka ticket would also let me through the barriers into the metro, ... read more
Helen.

Europe » Russia » Centre » Tver March 7th 2006

A definition of Russian logic? The placement test that we weren't given at the beginning of the course finally happened this afternoon. The catch? No-one will change groups afterwards. It was done just because we said we would have like to have taken one three weeks ago. There were 170 grammar questions to answer in an hour - but not one about horses and bolts and stable doors. My head started to really hurt after question 100 but I felt that I answered the questions ok. There was an individual oral exam with Zhanna once we had finished, ten demeaning role-plays about tourists reserving rooms in hotels or asking the way to the airport. For all Russia's frustrations and rudeness, nothing had in fact hurt me for a while. Until my briefing after the exam. Zhanna ... read more

Europe » Russia » Centre » Tver March 6th 2006

Spring will soon be here; the weather is getting closer to zero after four months below freezing. The sky is now usually cold blue rather than cold grey. Icicles are begining to melt, which means they are falling from the tops of buildings and crashing to the ground. Most places underneath rafters are taped off, but the post office isn't. A piece of ice the size of a chandelier fell only two yards in front of me, making a sound like crashing glass. I walked away feeling startled: if it had landed on my head I'm sure it would have done similar harm. Worse was to follow in the day, as I was re-acquainted with the Russian service industry. The peroxide blonde woman in the internet café put two fingers up and repeated 'dva?' in a ... read more

Europe » Russia » Centre » Tver March 6th 2006

The people I live with in the obshezhitie...... read more
Yenu.
Yulia.
Michael.

Europe » Russia » Centre » Tver March 5th 2006

There was only one thing I wanted to do today. I was a boy who loves pancakes, in a country that loves pancakes, on pancake day. Today is the end of a very big Russian celebration. From Sarah Brown's email to me from Petersburg: "There's a festival this week called 'Maslenitsa', which is the Russian 'Pancake Week'. It started on monday and goes right through to sunday, which is the start of the fast before Easter. Traditionally something different happens each day. On monday a straw scarecrow is made, dressed in women's clothing, and carried around the neighbourhood by singing people. On the tuesday families invite friends around and perform a small concert/play for their guests. On these two days it is forbidden to eat pancakes ('blini'); this can only be done from wednesday, so on ... read more
Horse rides through town during Maslenitsa.
Shashlyk man.
Children's slide.

Europe » Russia » Centre » Tver March 4th 2006

I woke up late today. By the time I was showered and dressed Michael had returned from the market. Not having any plans fo my own I went myself after lunch, to see how it compared to the others I've been to. The Tver rynok is a long road that runs parallel to the river. On weekends both sides of it are occupied with stalls. Thousands of products are on sale from hundreds of people, from the very poorest babushki standing above a blanket with morsels on sale for just a few roubles, to tents with ladies selling woolly hats with sequins on, tarty underwear and pretend designer leather boots. There are men from the former republics - Azerbaijan, Georgia, Kazakhstan - loading asian carpets out of and on to vans. People sell rats and puppies ... read more
Tverskoi Tsentralnyi Rynok.




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