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Europe » Poland » Lesser Poland » Kraków September 30th 2016

The title of this blog post written from the lobby of the Hotel Kazimierz in the former Jewish section of Kraków exquisitely sums up the complex contradictions and richness of this week's visit. Yesterday our voyage began early with an excursion to the famous Roman Catholic stronghold of Czestochowa. A new museum to the Jews of that city has just opened. The exhibition, narrated by one of its creators and designed in conjunction with the new Polin Museum of Jewish history in Warsaw captures the adaptability, initiative, and dare I say Polishness of that once vibrant community. But there was a tragic underbelly to this place because it became one of the hotbeds of not only Nazi bestiality during the war, but also because of a particular Polish strain of antisemitism, with some roots to that ... read more
Jewish Theater Moguls
1909 Czestochowa
Nazi Efficiency

Europe » Poland » Lesser Poland » Kraków September 28th 2016

Thank goodness for the wonderful breakfast buffet the hotel provides. It's a chance to sit together with fellow travelers and talk before the long journeys ahead in the day. Getting to know each other' stories and impressions and create new connections. All the more important because this journey through a vanished world-the traces of which we are deciphering- carries with it for me a tremendous sense of the need to affirm life and blessing in the face of such total devastation and absolute brutality that the disappearance of Polish Jewish life represents for me. A stark example was yesterday's trip. We drove far to the east in the direction of Ukraine. Our first visit to the village of Markowa was to visit the newly opened museum dedicated to rhe Poles who saved Jews during the war. ... read more
Breakfast
Eat and Chat
Polish Countryside

Europe » Poland » Lesser Poland September 28th 2016

In the Talmud we read about the belief that in every generation there exist 36 righteous human beings who are unknown to each other and are also unaware of their own special role in the world. They are simple and humble and anonymous individuals who behave in such a humane way that they justify the reason for the continued existence of humanity. In Hebrew they are called both Lamed Vavnivks- based on the Hebrew letter lamed that equals 30 and the letter vav that equals six, and Tsadikim Nistarim - the hidden righteous. Today many of us felt we had met one of those in our generation. His name is Piotr. He's a Pole in his thirties who was born and lives in the city of Bedzin also known as Bendin in Yiddish. It's located in ... read more
Bedzin
Site of the City Synagogue
Street view

Europe » Poland » Lesser Poland » Bochnia September 27th 2016

Yesterday was the first full day with the group of 40 educators who've taken a week to gather in Kraków. From a 21 year old Austrian young man from the Tyrol to a 65 plus year old Israeli from a kibbutz in northern Israel we are on the same bus this week in order to understand more about the Jews of the territory in southeastern Poland described by the Austro-Hungarian Empire, many Jews from pre-war Poland, and then again the Nazis as Galicia. This was one of the densest heartlands of pulsating Jewish life for more than 500 years. It's where my father's father's family hails, and so it is the landscape that many of my ancestors looked upon. Yesterday we traveled to Bochnia. A small town of about 12,000 people, including about 2500 Jews in ... read more
Hasidic Prayer House
unmarked graves
Entrance to Bochnia cemetery

Europe » Poland » Lesser Poland » Kraków September 8th 2016

I have always wanted to visit Krakow, so I went to Poland a day early so I could do about 24 hours in Krakow. Not enough time at all, I know. However, I did see a lot of the old town and enjoyed it. I would like to go back someday. We arrived into Frankfurt on time at 10am, and cleared immigration quickly. Next flight to Krakow was around noon time, but it seemed full for stand by. The next flight was not until around 4 pm, but it had lots of open seats. What to do? Shall we go into Frankfurt city for a few hours? Try the early flight? We decided to try the earlier flight, and it was a good choice because we made it on. It was a smooth and routine flight ... read more
Main Square
Main Square
St. Mary's Basilica

Europe » Poland » Lesser Poland » Kraków September 1st 2016

Well Poland was cheap to travel to using euros. We had fun with our Poland friend touring us around (it was good having someone speaking Polish in Poland). We went to see old town at night, a salt mine and Auschwitz. Just as a disclaimer/ warning the part of the pictures are from Auschwitz.... read more
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Europe » Poland » Lesser Poland » Kraków August 11th 2016

Well the rain that started the previous evening carried on all night and throughout the next day putting the dampers on our plans for that day. We had intended to visit an area dotted with lakes and mountains but soon realized that would be impossible as the rain poured and poured. We gave up and watched the Olympic Games on TV and Gary and Milena went shopping. Fortunately, that night, we found a lovely Swiss restaurant close to our guesthouse so didn't get too wet. And there we were once again at the end of our holiday. The next day we caught the bus back to Krakow, spent the afternoon exploring the main square and market before saying our goodbyes as Gary and Milena caught their return flight to London and us back to Manchester.... read more
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Transport.Main Square, Old Town, Krakow
Traditional costume

Europe » Poland » Lesser Poland » Zakopane August 10th 2016

Zakopane... A small town located in the southernmost part of Poland... and yet it attracts on average 2,5mln tourists a year... What makes it so desirable then? For one it’s the incredible Tatra mountains, and what comes with that are the endless opportunities for trekking in summer or skiing and cross country skiing in winter... But it’s also the different culture, slightly different language, different style of architecture and of course the food... I love it and I’ve been to this town many times already and even though each time I had the accommodation booked some time in advance, it never crossed my mind that it might be difficult to find something a week ahead of the arrival... As that’s more or less when we started looking for a place to stay there. And what a ... read more
Walking towards Kasprowy Wierch
On the way to Kasprowy
Walking through Dolina Koscieliska

Europe » Poland » Lesser Poland » Zakopane August 9th 2016

The morning dawned bright and clear and by 7am we were stood in the queue waiting for the cable car to take us to the summit of Kasprowy Wierch. By 7.45am we were at the summit drinking in the amazing views. Half an hour later the whole group had made it to the top and we were ready to start the long walk down. Although the aim was to go down the mountain there was also a lot of paths going up that we had to encounter, some trickier than others! At one point there was an opportunity to take a detour and take in another peak, Giewont. The path was known to be very steep with chains at the very top to help your ascent. However as we got closer we could see a long ... read more
All Together Ready to Start the Long Walk Down
On Top of the World
Walk along the ridge at the Summit

Europe » Poland » Lesser Poland » Kraków August 9th 2016

We flew from Rome to Krakow. I have been to Poland, but never to Krakow. The first thing we did was put our bags in the hotel and had lunch. Something famous in Poland is called Pierogis...something like a non-crunchy empanada. I have had them many times, but these ones were boiled and not fried and I did not like them. After that me, my dad, and Ania split up. My dad and I went to Wawal Castle. At the castle, we had a tour guide and we learned about the history of the castle. The castle was beautiful and had many rooms and 2 stories. In many of the rooms there were tapestries, but in one of the rooms there was a bunch of tapestries that told the story about the flood and Noah's arc. ... read more
Wieliczka Salt Mine
Holocaust Memorial - Jewish Ghetto
Wieliczka Salt Mine - 130 m deep




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