If I say so myself, we managed the jet lag superbly, sleeping like babies to get up Saturday morning to bright sunshine, a simple breakfast and an exploratory stroll back into the old town. By 10 a.m. people had already began to converge on the the main square in this city of 800,000. Unlike the capital city of Warsaw, it was unscathed by the bombing of World War 11. Beautiful architecture abounded. Sitting outdoors at Castor Coffee Club having capucinno and pretzels was a cool way to begin the day as the sweet sound of a trumpet filled the air from above us. As a tradition, a beautiful melody is played from the top of the nearby St. Mary's church steeple, four times every hour as if the king of ancient times was still around to
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