Blogs from Rio San Juan Region, Nicaragua, Central America Caribbean

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Nous nous sommes arrivés à la fin de la rivière (ou fleuve) San Juan hier après toute une journée de voyage en bateau qui est parti à 9h du matin de El Castillo pour arriver à San Juan vers 17h. Le bateau s'arrêtait à toutes les demi-heure pour laisser débarquer les Nicaraguens vers la frontière Costa Rican (A pied...) ou pour que les militaires du côté Nicaragua du fleuve puissent vérifier le bateau de temps en temps. On a vu quelques crocodiles pendant le voyage aussi, mais ils ne nous ont pas arrêtés.. Puis on était naïfs de penser qu'on aurait pu prendre un bateau de San Juan jusqu'à Bluefields.. c'était probablement une mauvaise idée de toute façon avec un petit bateau à la mer. Sinon on a découvert San Juan, un peu perdu et (surprise!) ... read more
Une grande palmier à côté de notre auberge
Vue depuis notre balcon
Aileron de requin sèches


I was excited to finally fulfill a goal of crossing Lake Nicaragua by boat from Granada to San Carlos, all the way at the other end at the mouth of the Rio San Juan. The boat ride was a trip in itself and took over 15 hours from start to finish, with a long stop in Ometepe due to the loading of bananas by lots of human hands (and lots of bananas). Before getting on the boat we had a bit of a day buying plastic hammocks in Rivas and going back to a hostel (Pascal knew from before) who were super friendly and nice enough to let us keep our bags for the day and relax in the courtyard while it was raining, and refilling our water bottle. After we got to the chocolate museum ... read more
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We decided to travel down de San Juan river, straight through a pristine bio reserve, all the way to the caribbean coast of Nicaragua. After stamping out of Costa Rica, walking across the border and stamping in to Nicaragua we got to the small but busy river town San Carlos. We emptied the only cash machine in this whole region, had a very nice diner overlooking the river and lake and next day shipped ourselves into a ‘bote’, a long but narrow riverboat. We got out in the middle of ... read more
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I’m scribbling this as we wait for a working boat to take us up river to San Carlos. We were due to leave at 11.30 on the quick boat but the engine has conked out so we now have to wait for the slow boat that leaves at 2pm. Such is the life of the traveller; we have fallen into the stride now so delays like this no longer feel like a problem. The helpful lady at the tourist info has kindly invited us into her office/house so while we wait Helen is researching Costa Rica, our next destination and I am taking the opportunity to keep our beloved readers informed of our adventures. Whatever gets you through the night We are on the Rio San Juan on the border of Nica and Costa Rica, a ... read more
The smiles didn't last long
The local kids with their 'catch'
Helen and her naughty horse


Cocibolca is the local name for Lake Nicaragua, a.k.a., Lago de Nicaragua, and means "sweet sea," nevermind that it's a lake. After 16 torrid days in Costa Rica I've toned down the pace quite a bit during my first couple of weeks in Nicaragua. Not difficult to do as the languid places I've been coupled with the ever increasing heat have made it impossible to move around at anything close to how quickly I blew through Costa Rica. Just spent a few days in Masaya and Granada, the former almost tourist free compared to the latter. Arrived in León today and the plan is to head north to Estelí, Somoto, and Ocotal (staging area for Nicaragua's highest peak) before crossing into Honduras. $US ≈ 26 Nicaraguan córdobas (C$) San Carlos Port of entry if crossing from ... read more
Boat ride to Papaturro
Downtown Papaturro
Jesus Christ Lizard


Our Arrival The slow boat from El Castillo arrived at 4pm. From the port turn left to get into the town. Walk until you get to the main street you will know when you are there) and there is a map of the town. Where We Stayed Hostal/Hotelto Evo - C$300 for a room with bathroom. When you reach the main street turn right for a couple of blocks and it is on the corner. Nice room with mosquito nets. You can book tours as well. What We Did Trip to Graytown - $25 each min of 3 people. Booked through our hotel. Visisted the old dredge/ship, the graveyards of Greytown, the sanbank by the sea and a lagoon. Our guide spoke English and had laminated old pictures and maps of the area. Very informative but ... read more


Our Arrival The boat took 3 hours and we arrived at 3pm. Where We Stayed Hospedaje Universal - $10 for a room with shared bathroom. $18 with private bath. Lovely place with firm mattresses and pillows, crisp white sheets and river views from 2 rooms. Nice balcony with river or street views and rocking chairs. When you get off the boat turn left for a few metres. They can also arrange tours. What We Did Visit the fort - $2 admission with a museum attached with English signs. Watch a baseball game - on Sat or Sun Caiman Tour - $40 for 4 people booked through our hostel. Saw mostly glowing eyes. The guide caught 2 baby caiman's with his hands and brought them on the boat for us to look at. Where We Ate Comedor ... read more


Our Arrival We caught the 5pm ferry on Thursday from Granada. The ferry took 12 hours and stopped at Ometepe but not the other 2 stops even though people had tickets for there. When we arrived nowhere was open so we sat at the waterfront until the first hostel opened at around 6:30am. Where We Stayed Hospedaje El Madrono - $10 for a double room with shared bathroom. On the waterfront with a nice balcony to sit on. Toilets are flushed with a bucket of water and a scoop and bring your own toilet roll. What We Did Visit the fort and the cannons by restaurant Mirador. Not much to see. Where We Ate The Bus Station - the usual chicken and rice etc for C$70. In the mornings people sell plastic plates of food for ... read more


We left La Fortuna on the 6am bus to Ciudad Quesada (1.20h) for our connecting bus to the border town of Los Chiles (2.5h) where we brought our boat ticket and got our exit stamp for the border crossing. The boat journey down the Rio Frio was beautiful seeing many of the same animals that we had seen in Tortuguero along the way. The boat dropped us off at the immigration post in San Carlos Nicaragua, after which we were picked up for our boat transport to the Jungle Lodge La Esquina del Lago, named because it sits on the corner where the Rio Frio and Rio San Juan meet the lake. The lodge was built 10 years ago by a French fishing enthusiast and that is the primary reason for people to come and stay ... read more
Tasty success
Sunset from the lodge
Rio Frio


The lodge owner from San Carlos very kindly agreed to let us take one of his kayaks with us to our next destination, the Solentiname Archipelago. This proved to be a great asset and we went out on it every day, even transporting it to the islands was no problem, the boat owners proving to be very friendly and helpful with everything we needed to organise. So after leaving the lodge at 1.30pm we arrived at our new lodge at 3.30pm, kayak and all, durring the crossing we discussed with the captain a full days fishing for the following day on his panang. He picked us up at 7am as agreed and took us all around the islands to the most beautiful fishing spots. It was the perfect way to spend Marks birthday, and the captain ... read more
View from main dock
The Dock
Action Shot!




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